Watts Premier 560014 Membrane 110009 24 GPD Membrane, 1-Pack, Yellow

Installed this to revitalize a very old school Premier/Watts WP-4V system that I got for free. Flow rate is perfectly acceptable, though, I am a low-demand user. The most I would ever ask of my system at one time is to fill up a 54oz water bottle, and I have auxiliary 3gal bottles off to the side so I'm really never like... Running up against the membrane filter itself, I'm just decanting from the 3gal pressure tank in my RO system.Filtering performance... The worst I have seen out of my unfiltered tap is 305TDS... Through my RO system (including post-filter) I get between 22 and 31. Tastes phenomenal!Has nothing to do with the filter itself but I will add that the Premier H2o company is top-tier, they have friendly phone support, they have a huge library of troubleshooting guides.

DESCRIPTION> Color: yellow. All yellow Premier filters are the same size and fit in the same housing. They come in 18, 24, 36, and 50 g/d capacities. You need to match the capacity to your system. My understanding is that if you install a higher capacity membrane, you may have to add a flow limiter to your system. As it turned out for me, my old membrane was a 36 g/d membrane---but the system seems to work well with the 24 g/d membrane. Note also that the black rubber gasket of my 10-year old membrane was at the other end, but does not seem to matter.> This filter is 24 gallons per day, which you should check to see if it matches your existing system.> Genuine Watts #11009---which is important because Watts membranes have a built-in check valve. If you use a non-watts membrane, you may have to add a check-value to your system.> Measurements: 11 1/2" long overall; body 1 3/4" diameter; to fit in a 2" diameter tube> Comes with instructions, which aren't great. But did not exactly apply to my 25-year old Watts Premier system, because the housing of more modern Premier RO systems has been redesigned. I needed to grab the end of the old filter with pliers to pull it out. One end has two O-rings (shown in the photo on the far lower right), the other does not have O-rings but is notched. Pay attention to which way your old membrane was installed. It is as good idea to take photos with your cell phone for each step in disassembly.SUGGESTIONS> Consider replacing all the other filters at the same time---you'll get more life out of the membrane.> I suggest that you start any maintenance by cleaning the black waste-line (so that later cleaning will not accidentally contaminate your new filters). See below.> Consider replacing your tank at the same time---the rubber diaphragm in the tank has a limited life (probably 5--10 years).> Silicon grease is perfect for lubricating the O-rings for the best seal. However, you don't want silicon grease to leach into your drinking water. So if you use silicon grease on the O-rings, be sure to wipe off all excess---just a few molecules thick will do the job. Permatex PERMATEX DIELECTRIC GREASE 22058> Silicon grease is also helpful on all the "threads" where the filter housings screw together---it allows you to easily tighten them tighter that you could easily otherwise---and when it comes time to replace the filters, the housings should unscrew easier.PREMIER RO WASTE-LINE MAINTENANCE---a good idea to do before you install the membrane filter.> After about 6 months of use, the black waste-water tube can become clogged with a bacterial mat. If you pay attention, there is an odd choking gurgling sound when the tube is almost clogged. When it is clogged, the waste water will leak from the faucet itself out onto your counter. The solution (i.e., to prevent clogging of the line) is to regularly clean-out the black waste-water line. An 18" length of "weed-whacker" cord works well. Detach the black tube from your sink waste-line, and feed the "weed-whacker cord" into the tube and scrub it out. If you've had a root-canal procedure, you know how it's done. Note that the bacterial mat is a nasty sludge---have an old cloth towel handy to catch the gunk.> About 1 1/2 years ago I purchased a "beer line brush" Draft Beer Line Hose Cleaning Brush: 3/16" diameter, which worked well the one time I used it (the 1/4" diameter model might work better). However, it also occurred to me that I could squirt a few drops of Clorox into the air gap to prevent the bacterial mat from forming. Since I've been doing that once every few months, the waste line has not clogged up, so, I haven't needed to use the brush. The following bottle, which works well for this purpose is $3 at the Container Store Nalgene Plastic Drop Bottle. A Beachcombers! 1/2 Oz & 1oz Soft Squeeze Fine Metal Tip Moroccan Blunt Needle Syringe Type Body Art Henna Tattoo Applicators, 5 Tips 4 Bottles would probably be even better.> The air gap is literally a "gap", that is, an open space, or "well", located is beneath the lever, opposite the giraffe neck. For access to Premier faucets with flat sides (without an access hole on the side), pull the giraffe neck straight up and out, then slide the lever forward (in the direction of the giraffe neck). Drip few drops of Clorox into the "well" Do NOT disturb the small black plastic insert---it is the tiny "faucet" where the red water line discharges "brine" into the air gap or "well". To reassemble, push the lever backward (in the direction of the air gap), so that the legs slide under the "T", and then push the giraffe neck back into place. In Premier faucets which have domed bodies (without the flat sides), the air gap is accessible via a hole on the same side as the lever---perhaps for the very purpose of making the air gap easier to sanitize. If you install a domed-body faucet with the lever toward the sink, the hole is most easily accessible.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask questions.

Watts Premier membrane is a great product, good price/value

Works as expected, good price and last about 4 years with softner installed. Ensure you get the right one for your specific filtration system otherwise it will not produce any filtered water.

For many years I had used Filmtec and recently bought Watts as replacement, only $5 more. I am please so far and overall TDS level has been below 5. To get to that number you need you understand your RO system and what filters does it needed. Here is my RO system: Sediment, GAC w/KDF55, Coconut Carbon Block, Watts Membrane 24GPM, permeate pump, 90% Auto Shut Off Valve, ,Refillable DI De-Ionization Filter, Tank, post inline Coconut Shell GAC w/KDF55, and waste line out with Capillary Flow Restrictor 189ml/mn for 18gpd. So far the biggest improvement is the waste water has been cut down 2/3 compare to the old Filmtec one. I do think DI filter is very important to cut down the TDS level. I bought mine from Complete Filtration Services Inc for $32 no tax to CA.

This is the original spare part for your Watts RO system. In my case my old membrane had been used for about 4 years with a light to medium demand. So I decided to change.Note for watts filters: I had expirienced low water production with low water pressure and a constantly running (drain) system. So I started changing the carbon and sediment filters. No improvement. Changed the auto shut off valve (ASOV). No improvement. Dismantled everything to check for blockage. No problem to be found. As a last resort I changed the membrane and everything came back to normal. Great tasting water with a lot of pressure and a lot of it. So if your system is constantly running you might want to change the membrane. The system rubs on a very sensitive balance if pressures. A blocked membrane can cause several problems. Change yours as often as needed. They are cheap and extremely easy to change.

I've just installed this RO membrane and the results are spectacular. My old, worn out, membrane wasn't filtering at all. It was way past time to change because there was no difference between the PPM reading for the regular tap water and the RO filtered water. Yes, the filtered water tasted better but that was all. Here are the new readings: tap water 242 PPM, RO water 17 PPM. The will be slightly lower when the residual water from the storage tank goes away. The installation was super easy and only took about 15 minutes which included a complete change of the other filter stages in my RO unit.