Japanese Wood Block Plane KANNA 40mm Carenter's Tool Double Edge Senkichi

Me encantó , ya lo use

I tapped the blade in very lightly and used this to get paper thin wood curls. Leaves a glossy, smooth finish. Tap the hammer on the wood, not the metal to back it out. Here's the weird part: on my other anglo-german-american type plains I tape the other end of the plane (the wood) to seat the blade and make it stick out a little farther. On this plane (and I've seen tons of videos on Youtube of people doing it this way) I just LIGHTLY tapped the blade downward to get it to stick out more. This plane has no pins and no wedge: it's just the blade against the wood in a very tight fit. This is how an elderly Japanese woodworker on a Kotaro Tanaka video did it as well. You'll never hurt the blade by tapping the blunt end of it--then again you'll never crack the wood shoulders of a plane by tapping on the front or back of the plane, LOL.I own a bunch of planes now: various old metal, huge two-foot antique wood ones I restored, a Hock/Krenov kit I built years ago, and now this Japanese plane which produces curls as nicely as the others. You pull instead of push. It's very light weight and responsive.I tend to run planes more side to side, left to right on thinner pieces of wood as opposed to pushing straight away from my body and this allows that technique as well.It's just like the photo: sticker, single blade with no chip breaker and light wood. Really clean and simple. The sticker says to tap blade to extend and tap end of wood to retract. Tap SOFTLY: you won't hurt the blade, but you might theoretically, break the wood shoulders. Tape, test, tap, test, tap, test and I was making shavings. Nice shavings.The only way to get a better deal is to: buy old blades at garage sales and build your own (which is fun).Why use a plane? Because ALL sandpaper leaves scratches. It's true that finer and finer grades of sandpaper leaves finer and harder to see and feel scratched, but why not just swoosh the plane once and get a glossy, smooth, no tear-out, non-fuzzy, no scratch mirror finish! It's way faster, the curls smell nice as opposed to messy, unhealthy sawdust and the finish is easily proven to be smoother. Look at it! Feel it! Look at it with a magnifying glass! Glass smoothness instead of fuzzy matte sanded finish you have to put a THICK glossy chemical finish on to make look nice.Try this: run a plane across the edge of a board. It looks great! Now sand that glassy edge with the finest grade sandpaper you have handy: it'll make it look worse! Planer is faster, easier, cheaper, smoother cleaner than paper.Sawdust is for saws, not fine finishing tools. Sandpaper makes me sneeze, planes release the smell of the wood (even old wood). Nice!Mike from Detroit

This is a decent little plane that gets used quite often. It is not super fancy, no laminated blade or anything like that, just a single piece of tool steel. It does, however, function quiet well right out of the box. It can be a little stiff to adjust at first, as the plane body grips the blade quite firmly. Certainly not disappointed. It is a simple, functional tool. Bought two so I could build a chamfer plane out of the second one.

Using these to make chopsticks. Super sharp out of the box. Easy to set up.It’s a small plane. Does not have a wedge, so I don’t know how well it will work for hard use. But it’s amazing for $12

Kanna (Japanese planes) don't come ready to use. You have to "earn" the tool, so to speak. So it was with the one I received, which was ready for tuning. In particular, the blade was not fully seated and needed the blade "bed" to be carefully marked (by installing blade coated with pencil graphite) and scraped for both broad contact and proper blade depth/installation-force balance. YouTube has plenty of good videos on this, look for "prepare kanna" and you'll find them. I also flattened the base (avoid sandpaper) and hollowed the right spots and honed the blade.This is a great tool for the price and a good way to get some practice with kanna preparation and tuning before you start shelling out three-figures for a better one. And you can do some good work with this when you're done, handy on the bench like a block plane is.The blade is so-called "mono-steel", so not laminated, but takes and holds a good edge. Definitely a good buy for me at $12.

Could not get the blade to protrude enough to start shaving (was about 5mm too far back). No amount of tapping would make it protrude any further. After watching a few videos on the topic, I ended up sanding the back of the iron on 120 grit sandpaper until most of the texture was gone and it was very flat, then I coated it with pencil marks and tried to seat it. It went a little further, so I took it out and sanded down the high areas on the plane body (marks left by the pencil dust). I repeated this until finally the blade protruded enough to take nice shavings. The plane is too small to be gripped enough to work on hardwoods, such as oak and spruce (even if I try to take thin shavings), but works much better on pine. I think this is best as an introduction to Japanese planes.