LOHAS® 100W LED Chip Cool White Bulb High Power Energy Saving Lamp Chip

This is an awesome little chip. It is extremely bright - everyone who has seen it has been blown away with the amount of light. It floods my backyard much better than halogen floodlights. It outshines the highbeams on my car. It makes a 250 W halogen work light look like it's not even on. It's also very inexpensive for what you get. That said, there is more hardware required to run this light properly.You need a power supply that can deliver 100+ Watts. I'm currently using a computer power supply with 300 W available on the 12 V rail.You need a way to step up the power supply voltage to the LED operating voltage. I'm using a boost converter rated for 150 W made by DROK, also from Amazon. The output voltage can be controlled very easily by adjusting a trim pot. I have pulled up to 142 W (at 37 V) from this device. At that power level, the heatsinks do get hot (60 °C vs 28 °C ambient) but it does recommend the use of a fan at power levels above 100 W.You need a way to cool the LED. The LED does not come with any heatsink. At high power levels it will quickly fry itself. Even though LEDs are efficient compared to other light sources, most of the input energy is wasted at heat. I have mine attached with thermal grease to an old AMD processor stock heatsink/fan that is designed for a 125 W processor. With the fan running and pushing 120 W through this chip, the temperature of the chip remains below 40 °C.Optionally, you need a lens to focus the light. I got one right here on Amazon that takes the normally 140° cone of light of the bare chip and brings it down to 60°, increasing the luminous intensity by a factor of 5. Both focused and unfocused, the light is very uniform, and works very well as a flood light.Also optionally, you need a driver to control the output. If you run the LED straight from the boost converter it will be at full brightness all of the time. If that is all you require, then no driver is necessary. I built an Ardunio powered circuit that offers more control. It uses a low side N-channel MOSFET to switch the LED. If I want to dim the LED, the Arduino switches the FET at 490 Hz and varies the duty cycle to change the brightness. 0-100% brightness is available. Another mode keeps the duty cycle constant at 50%, but varies the frequency from 1 to 100 Hz, creating a powerful strobe light. In either mode (dimming or strobe) the duty cycle or frequency is controlled by a potentiometer. I am planning on adding a momentary switch that immediately puts the LED at full brightness, as well a temperature sensor that turns on the heatsink fan when it gets hot.If you want this to be a standalone unit and not a jumble of wires, you will need an enclosure to mount everything and keep it cool. I'm planning on making mine able to run from AC from the wall, or a battery pack.This is not a plug and play device. It needs more hardware and assembly to get it running optimally. Once it is running though, it is very impressive.

the power supplies that are made for them are constant current.... 1.5A for 50w, 3A for 100w. ive bought 25 of these over the years. i personally glue them to whatever metal is meant to sink the heat. dont use any glue..... theres this 99% silver epoxy for cpu's arctic silver... i also power them at half power.... i use 100w supplies and hook the two led's in parralel .... at half powr they ar still 70% as bright, but half as hot.so 2 bulbs gives me more light (ALOT) NO HEAT, AND DOUBLE THE ALREADY NUTS LIFESPAN.

I tested the LED while powered with a 12v battery and the little red 12v booster board, DC converter that most people use. I got 33.85vdc at 2.5amps, (the highest my booster will go to, (at my battery's 12.65v unloaded voltage). So that equates to 84.6 watts or pretty close to what I am supposed to get. I also think these are pretty good chips. I slowly cranked it up and you can see that when you reach a certain voltage, all 100 LED's seem to be the same brightness and continue the same...... until they turn into the sun and you have to look away. My only disappointment is that besides lighting up my front yard well, I can't seem to get light to cast far away. In other words to illuminate stuff 50-100' away, my pocket flashlight is better. I was hoping to make this into a tractor beam for my drone but instead I think I have a street light. Still pretty cool LED that get's massively hot even on my old Intel Processor heat sink.

I purchased three of these LEDs to build a continuous lighting source for a photo studio. At this time I am waiting for project boxes and wiring connectors to be delivered so I can complete my project. I am using a DROK 600W 12A Constant Current/Voltage 12-60V to 12-80V boost converter and Mean Well 12 volt power supply. At this time I have only connected up one led, WOW is it bright one brief flash was almost blinding. My wiring connector are coming from China and I don't expect them for a couple of weeks.So what I can tell your right now the LEDs work fantastically and I expect to have my setup running soon. When all is said and done I expect to have a lighting set to rival commercially available sets that retail for hundreds of dollars or more with very little out of my pocket.I highly recommend this product and will likely purchase more in the future.

Overall, the light is good for the money. I have bought three of these at various points in time for some DIY projects. On the whole, the cost more than fits the product. That said...I have found some minor issues with the design. Mainly, the negative and positive terminals are not clearly laid out. It's sort of a matter of guesswork and using some equipment to figure out which terminal is positive (+) or negative (-). Sort of a risky move, considering LED's are polarized devices and can be damaged if hooked up incorrectly.There are (+) and (-) markings on two parallel corners of the plastic bezel, but since there is no documentation to show how those orient with the actual terminals, the markings are entirely useless. Something that could be easily overcome with a simple design change. But again, it's a cheap light, so you get what you pay for.Lastly, there are a few pixels that don't light up right away (at the 24V starting point). Once you get to 25 Volts, things tend to completely come on. Again, a cheaper product (money-wise) so within the range of acceptable behavior.On the whole, a decent product that puts out decent light. Not professional video or photo quality with it's 70-80ish CRI, but good enough for general uses. To the hobbyist or amateur, I would recommend this as a good starter. To the experienced individual looking for more professional uses, there are higher quality lights (at higher prices) out there. It all depends on what you want to do for 10(ish) dollars.