MAXRIENY DC Clamp Multimeter True RMS 6000 Counts Digital Meter Current Voltage Resistance Frequency Live Check V-Alert Continuity Tester with Back Clip

Handy and quick and small. Easy to find room for it. It gives me the information that I need. No hidden costs or charges.

Current values jump around but that's not unusual for low mA current readings. Good enough however to track down parasitic draw on an automobile

This is an intriguing meter. It gets some things really right. It's just about the perfect combination of features for electrical/HVAC/appliance work, and it's surprisingly hard to find that combination from the name-brand options out there, especially if you’re on a budget. But it seems to me that the quality here falls just a little bit short of where it should be, even at this budget-friendly price point. (And, yes, a meter below fifty dollars is very solidly in the realm of the “cheap” meters.) Still, it’s quite an interesting little meter, and one would hope that the manufacturer will step up their game and iron out some of the kinks. There’s a lot to think about when buying a meter, so please bear with me—this isn’t a short review.BUILD QUALITY AND SAFETY: The unit feels pretty solid in my hands. The mode dial clicks into place well. The screw that holds down the cover to the battery compartment screws into a metal insert rather than slowly tearing up the plastic casing over time. The probes are nice and sharp, if that’s important to you, and if you’ve ever tried to probe inside a light socket or other confined space then you’ll probably appreciate the included (removable) shrouds. The lead wires are fairly flexible as plastic insulation goes, and they’re marked as rated for 10A even though you won’t be using them at that level because this meter doesn’t have any mode that would support that level of current. On the unit that I originally received, though, the lead connectors don’t fit as tightly as they should, presenting some risk of them pulling loose during operation. Upon opening up the unit, I found two (little) PTC’s to protect against overcurrent but not a single MOV (for overvoltage protection) as far as I can see. I’m no expert in such things, but I would’ve liked to see better. (Some people who are coming from other meters might question why there isn’t a fuse, but fuses are only standard for a meter that has an in-line amp or milliamp range — which doesn’t apply here.) The input protection in the Uni-T UT210E inspires a lot more confidence in me. And I can’t help but notice that the safety Cat rating on this Maxrieny is written up top on the clamp and not down by the lead connections where I’m accustomed to seeing it — as though they might be trying to claim that only the clamp part is Cat III. I was also disappointed to discover that one of the internal contacts that delivers battery power to the circuit board was smashed down. I tried to bend it back out and the thin metal tab immediately snapped right off. Maxrieny, to their credit, sent me another unit to make it right, but that unit had different problems. Something was wrong with the connector on the black lead -- it wouldn’t fit into either the original or replacement meter. (The good probes from the first unit did, however, fit at a more appropriate tightness in the second unit.) And, most concerningly, something is very dodgy about the mode wheel on that second unit. I haven’t had any such issues on the first unit, but the replacement behaves badly if you apply pressure in the wrong way to the mode dial. It acts like it’s turning off and on again. It switches from Amps to Ohms with the dial still in the Amps setting. I took it apart to inspect it but couldn’t figure out what was going wrong. I ended up using the rear housing (with battery compartment and contacts) from the second unit to replace the one on the first unit, which in my testing has been behaving fine. Now, admittedly, the first unit might have worked fine if I hadn’t tried to fix the smashed battery terminal. It was still making contact and carrying power until I tried to bend it back into the proper position. But the fact that it snapped off so easily does make me wonder whether it would have been destined to fail prematurely even if I hadn’t opened it. In all, I got a lot more use out of the included screwdriver (which I’d thought was rather an odd item to bundle in) than I ever would have guessed. And I ended up with a working meter in the end, and maybe with enough effort I could get the other unit working too, but it shouldn’t take thiss much effort to get to that point. So on the whole I have to call the build quality (or at least the quality control) a bit disappointing.FEATURES AND USABILITY: This is the one area where I really love this meter. I have a Fluke 117 “Electrician’s meter”, and it’s great but it doesn’t have a current clamp. And most meters with current clamps don’t have a low impedance (LoZ) voltage mode -- which has actually proven surprisingly useful in my years with the Fluke 117. Or they don’t have a capacitance mode, which is helpful if you’re trying to diagnose your air conditioner or heat pump. Live wire detection is also pretty neat -- you can distinguish live from ground/neutral without assuming anything about what another wire is. This Maxrieny meter has all the essential functions for routine electrical, HVAC, and appliance work. And you wouldn’t think that would be a rare thing, but it kind of is. It’s as though the major manufacturers are in cahoots to make sure you have to buy multiple meters even if you’re just working in a single domain or a couple closely related domains. Now, conversely, if your interest is in fine electronics then this is probably not the meter for you and I would suggest you take a look at the Amprobe AM-510. This Maxrieny doesn’t have a diode test, the minimum capacitance range is 600 uF, and it doesn’t have a milliamp range or an in-line amp range, all of which are likely to be problematic for electronics work. So you certainly still need to pick a meter that’s appropriate to your needs and application. But for electrical, HVAC, appliances, and (to a somewhat lesser extent) automotive work, this seems like it could serve a person quite well as their sole multimeter. And I don’t think you could say that of any meter (at any price) in the much-venerated Fluke lineup. The belt clip and probe holder are also features that would lend themselves to the way you might move around for that kind of work, but it’s harder than I’d like to get one of the included probes (which have a very cylindrical, not very tapered handle) situated in the probe holder, and the belt clip is comically small -- and even if you did manage to get it on your belt the fact that there’s only one probe holder means that the other probe is going to be hanging down by your ankle. It’s also a little counterintuitive to me that AC and DC volts (and AC and DC amps) share the same spot on the mode dial but it doesn’t autodetect which one it is. It defaults to DC and you have to press the select button if you want AC (which seems like it would have been a better default for what seems to be an electrician’s meter). Also the indicator for the AC and DC settings is quite small on the screen so you have to have it right in front of you to read it properly. And the meter beeps when you turn it on or change mode, which I find a little annoying.PERFORMANCE/ACCURACY: Some functions are a little slow, as you would expect for a cheap meter. Volts and Ohms, in my testing, mostly settled to within a couple counts of my Fluke 117. It was dead-on for a nominally 5 uF capacitor but further off for a nominally 1000 uF one (981 uF to Fluke's 994 uF, but that’s still within spec). It seemed like it was a little out of spec on a half amp AC current measurement, showing 0.478A to my Fluke's 0.516 (measured in-line, not through a clamp), which is worse than you'd expect from even a worst-case combination of the Fluke’s and Maxrieny’s official errors. Granted, I wasn't making any effort to get the wire nicely centered in the clamp -- I prefer not to handle wires carrying mains electricity, especially when it's just a dodgy thing I've hacked together to get at just one conductor for clamping purposes. (And, if you’re not familiar with current clamps, please understand that you have to clamp it around just one of the two conductors delivering power to any device because otherwise they’ll cancel each other out -- so you can’t just clamp it around a power cord and expect to get a reading.) The V~Alert (non contact voltage detection) is kind of tricky -- you’ll have to play with it to kind of get a feel for it, and even then I would advise you not to trust it very much. The low impedance mode isn’t as low an impedance as I’d expected (about 825 kOhm), but that’s probably adequate for eliminating most ghost voltages, and might even be an advantage if you’re working on a GFCI-protected circuit and don’t want to trip it (although I kind of like the way the LoZ setting on my Fluke can be used as a kind of off-label GFCI tester to deliberately trip it). There are what look to be several trim pots inside the meter, so in principle I imagine you could probably calibrate it yourself if you had a good reference and could figure out which trim pot does what. The temperature seems to read a little high to me. It showed me 82 degF in a room that was about 77 or 78. Shows about 99 degF if I hold the tip between my fingers, which is probably also a little high. In all, the accuracy of this meter seems sufficient to get the job done for most ordinary purposes.ALTERNATIVES: A seemingly identical meter to this one has been sold under the name BSIDE for some time now. I cannot speculate as to whether there might be a difference in build quality. The most obvious name-brand competitor to this meter would be the similar-looking Uni-T UT210E, which has a very similar form factor and also sports an AC/DC amp clamp. If the Uni-T meets your needs, then it’s probably well worth the slightly higher price to get a meter from a trusted brand. But I would consider that product to be a more general purpose rather than electrician’s meter, so if the feature set of this ACM91 appeals to you then that may not be what you want. (There’s a less expensive ACM81 that is actually a closer match to the Uni-T.) For more of an electrician’s meter, probably the closest thing I could point you to would be the Klein CL800 "tough meter" (or CL700 if you don't need a DC amp clamp), but be aware it lacks a microamp range (which I can’t say I’ve ever needed but might be relevant if you have a furnace) and is significantly more expensive than this Maxrieny. About the only sort-of-name-brand option I could find (with LoZ voltage) in the sub-$50 range is the Ames CM200A, but it only measures AC current. And, of course, if you want the best then Fluke is widely regarded as the gold standard in safety, reliability, and accuracy, but it will be more expensive and have fewer capabilities. If you just need the bare basics plus an amp clamp (or, actually, jaw) the Fluke T5-600 tester (sadly also lacking LoZ) is a relatively simple and crude device that a lot of professional electricians seem to reach for first in their ordinary daily work. The Fluke 117 (which does LoZ) is more for fine diagnosis, but it doesn’t have an amp clamp (except as quite an expensive add-on). Depending on your exact needs, you would probably end up buying both a Fluke 116 or 117 and either a 323 or T5-600 or i410 to match most of the capabilities of this one Maxrieny - and no matter which two you picked you still wouldn't have every feature of the Maxrieny. Of course, if your needs are more modest, the Fluke 101 does the basics and can be had for about fifty bucks. Adam Savage made a video gushing over it, and it’s quite a nice solution if it meets your needs. It’s not packed with bells and whistles, but from what I’ve read the build quality and safety are miles ahead of other fifty-dollar meters. And if you’re going to use this to probe mains electricity (which is the sort of application that it feels like Maxrieny - or whoever designed this thing - is targeting with this meter’s collection of features) then safety should be a pretty high priority for you. The 101 doesn’t have a LoZ mode either. Maybe it would make sense to just give up on finding a budget meter that does LoZ internally and get a separate low-impedance voltage tester like the Klein ET45 or ET60.BOTTOM LINE: It seems like they might have some quality control issues to work out (and maybe they’ll have done so by the time you’re reading this). But if you can get a unit without any defects then this thing has an enviable set of features. So I couldn’t really fault you for buying it if you’re just doing Cat II work (stay away from your main panel with it), you’re comfortable with the safety aspects, and it saves you from buying two different meters to meet your needs. Be sure to test it thoroughly when you receive it, and request an exchange if anything is wrong. Six months later, I’m still using it for Cat II work myself. It’s a pretty handy combination of functions in a pretty convenient little form factor. But they had the opportunity to really knock it out of the park with this product, and they missed the mark. Whatever extra size, weight, and cost there would’ve been to build this right would’ve been so completely worth it. This is right on the edge of being a really compelling meter, and so it pains me to only give it three stars. This is one of those situations where I wish Amazon would let me award three and a half stars. I’d be open to trying Maxrieny again in the future. I think they’ve got promise if they can just step up their game a little bit.

Not properly calibrated. Using a 1000ohm resistor and a power supply I tested the meter. It would not read the calculated resistance of .020 ohms. All it read was .000Not good enough

I have a full fledged meter, but I don’t always need a foraged out model. I found this was much more convenient than the bigger model. I was able to use this to check power when swapping out my switches. It’s my go to unless I need to do something this doesn’t offer, which is once out of every hundred uses.

This device measured about 0 amps plus or minus 20 on another multimeter wire measuring 6 amps

easy to use, pocket size, very helpful, good quality

Easy to use, compact size. The thermometer is accurate and one of those features you didn't know you needed until you had it. Large numbers, soft push-buttons. The carrying case is not padded, but fine for protecting it from scratches in your tool box. One complaint - the leads are not very tight. They pull out without much effort - I actually had the positive lead fall out once while using, so I gave it a little crimp to tighten it up.

Je l’utilise souvent pour vérifier le voltage ou l’ampérage dans les panneaux électrique. Il est petit et se glisse bien dans mon sac d’outils. Si il y avait une sangle pour l’accrocher dans le panneau il serait parfait.

Lecture de voltage précise avec cable de test.Un peu de difficulté à calibrer 0 avant d'effectuer une lecture de courant continu (DC)Dans l'ensemble satisfait

Small size, easy to operate with one hand· DC compatible· Battery is AAA· Clamp is small and does not get in the way

デジタル値はあくまでも目安で、信用は出来ませんが、この価格ですから仕方ありませんね。せめて耐久性が良ければ良いのですが。

デジタルクランプメーターのレビューです。ケース付きで、必要な物は一通り入っています。■良い・小型、片手で操作しやすい・dc対応・電池が単4・クランプが小さく邪魔にならない■いまいち・バックライトなし・電源がボタン式・背面のフックがコンペックスのもより小さく挟みにくい■まとめ片手で使いやすいクランプメーター電線をカットする事無く測れるので家庭でも便利かと思います。延長コードなど真ん中をうまく割いて片側だけ挟めば簡単なワットチェッカー代わりにもなります。基本的には初テスターでなければ見ただけで使い方はわかると思いますが初めてテスターを購入される方は、クランプの付いていない普通のオート機能の充実した安い機種がおすすめかなと思います。