ABN Chain Breaker Tool Kit with Storage Case - 13 Piece Rivet and Roller Chain Link Removal Tool for 35 to 630 Motorcycle, Bike, ATV Chains

I purchased this breaker tool for use on a motorcycle build, for 530 chain. I was very pleased when it arrived, as the case is well-made, and holds all of the attachments securely. The main tool itself is very sturdy, and is made out of solid steel. I was initially worried about buying such an inexpensive kit, because very often, the quality of these kits is subpar, but I am happy to say that is not the case with this kit. There are multiple anvil and punch options included, and all of them work well, even on large 530 section motorcycle chain. Punching out a link was easy, but I would advise grinding the head off the pin you are punching out prior to beginning. This tool could probably exert enough force to push the pin through without grinding, but the process is much simpler if you remove the head first, and will increase the life of your tool. I was pleasantly surprised that the tool was able to successfully peen the head of the pin to secure it into the chain - many of the cheaper tools will break, or be unable to exert enough force to successfully round the pin over. Just take it slow with this step, and check your progress incrementally, and it will do the job! Overall, I'm very happy with this purchase, and plan to keep it in my emergency kit on the bike, in case a chain breaks on the road.

Overall it did everything it was supposed to do. I'd probably give it 4.5 stars since the metal may not be the highest quality, but it did do everything I needed to take off the old chain and put a new one on. It is true there is no instruction manual, but I honestly think most people would do better watching one of the many you tube videos available how to use this tool anyway. You'll hear two different views when it comes to breaking the chain. Some say grind it down so you can push out the link easier. Some say don't grind it down so the tool will fit over the link you're trying to push out. I ground it down so I could push it right out, which it did. This is the time to be careful though. A lot of people report the metal pin breaking. I took the extra few minutes to ensure the push pin was exactly lined up with the link and slowly pushed the pin a little at a time to make sure the pin was pushing the link out. In other words, only have the push pin on the link being pushed out and not any other part of the chain. If it's lined up correctly, there should be a much better chance the pin won't break. Once you know it is starting to push the link out, it is easy to line the push pin into the indented hole and push it the rest of the way out. As for putting on the master link, one video had a good idea of using a caliper to measure the distance (thickness) of a regular link. As you use the tool to install the new link on, just squeeze it a little at a time to get it to the same thickness as the regular links. You don't want to over-tighten the master link. If you feel this tool is something you may only use a handful of times in your life, it certainly does the trick.

I don't know who is leaving positive reviews here for this junk! I *might* work for a bicycle or moped chain, but as an experienced mechanic, I had a terrible time with this thing. It failed in 4 different ways and was unable to do the job. Black steel is supposed to denote tool-grade-8 steel. The blackness of these parts comes from paint, not forging. Matter of fact, a spark test of the components revealed that they are a mild-non-hardable steel. Your chain components are going to be forged and hardened, so when trying to flare the rivet, the tool crumbles before the flare can be made. The "C" portion of this tool (which commonly fails with cheap versions of this tool) is actually meaty and up to the job. However, the tooling bits are mild steel and simply crumble. When braking or cutting the chain, I use an angle grinder to flatten the pins and make it easier for the tool. After only 3 pressed pins, my pressing bit was visibly deformed. Also, to do a motorcycle chain, one must remove the spring, as it prevents the pin driver from pressing far enough through to completely press out the pin. The tool survived the process of seating the master link. However, when trying to flare the hardened pins with the anvil and rivet tool, you can see that the tip of riveting tool simply crumbled and took on the shape of the pin. When pressed further, the bolt stripped. I happened to have a hardened bolt that fit the thread and quickly ground a flaring tip onto it. At this point the weak collar simply snapped off before the pin was able to be pressed into the .55mm shape specified. Bottom line, this is not a tool. It'a a look-alike. And its going back.

It is inexpensive comparatively to other products available. Is this one equal to something costing multiple times more? I say no, not in terms of perceived durability, and maybe how many times these pieces are used to perform a task as needed, for the life of the tool. I bought this for the attractive price, and you guessed it. I needed one. Ground the rivets down and broke a 525 chain multiple times, riveted 2 master links with it. Zero indication it can't handle all this many times over. Besides, it comes with tooling adapters for bicycle chain as well! For the price, the quality is higher than my expectation. Not a professional quality tool, but performed perfectly well for me, and my chains.

If you want to use it once for riveting a chain, it will do the job. But if you plan to use it several times, maybe consider buying the Motion Pro. This one is cheap and bent after the second use.

Worked perfectly for my job. This tool will accomplish your chain replacement job, if you are careful. I just replaced my chain using this tool about a month ago. I ground down one of the rivet heads on the old chain then popped it apart using this chain breaker. It came apart without any problems. Then, got the new chain on and riveted it together. Part of the success was being meticulous. Tighten it up, back it off and double check, and repeating until perfect. You don't want the rivet to be too tight or too loose, you pretty much only have one go at it, so again, back it off and double check in doubt. All in all I was happy with the tool. No instructions, but you can look up online how to use a chain breaker/riveter tool. It came in a nice plastic box to keep all the little parts organized. Even the threads on the tool came pre-lubricated. I can see how the tool could be damaged if you're not extra careful. As long as you're diligent and double check your work, the little extra time spent goes a long way. If you need to change more than 1 chain a year, I might recommend spending the little extra money. There's always a right tool for a job. I had to do my chain but didn't seem like it was necessary to spend $100+ on a tool I would rarely use. This one worked just fine. 100+ miles already on my new chain. Oh, and for what it's worth, I'm usually pretty busy and don't leave reviews unless it was a great product worth mentioning.

I saw plenty of meh reviews on this kit, but decided to take a chance. Like other reviewers, I've broken my share of even name brand motorcycle chain tools. This kit is well designed and well equipped for both removal of the old chain and installation of the new chain. I used it on a high end 520 pitch 1100cc rated street bike chain and it worked perfectly, but you have to get both the tool and the chain prepped properly first to get long life from it. First, and most importantly, grease all the threads before using, because it takes a lot of force to remove a chain pin. Second, select the right-sized driver pin, don't blindly assume the biggest pin will fit through the chain's hole. It must be a bit smaller than the pin. Measure against the master link to make sure. Finally, you MUST grind off the top of the chain pin on the side of the chain the chain tool is going to push from. Motorcycle chain pins are assembled and flared with multi-ton industrial presses, your not getting it out with a $20 chain tool and your video game softened hands if you don't grind off the flared end of the pin first so it fits through the side plate holes. An angle grinder works best for this, a Dremel will do in a pinch. A hand file on the side of a road will work but you'll be there all night. A cheap tool taken care of and used properly will outlast an expensive tool used by the inexperienced.

TL;DR; You get what you pay for. Save your time and money for something better. First off, I had read the reviews saying the tool's components are mild steel, and that they've either easily bent or broken. I figured I'd get a few good uses while being careful. I'm not sure why this is advertised as being acceptable for motorcycle use, but it certainly should not be. The chain breaker pin bent after first use *inside* the bolt housing, same story with the riveter pin. After the first rivet was set, I found that the anvil had also snapped just from the light twisting from loosening the tool. As other reviewers have said, I think this would be fine for a small bicycle chain, but don't expect more than a single use from this tool if you attempt on a motorcycle. Additionally, the black finish on the tool's components would lead one to believe the parts are hardened, right? I can't help but wonder if that's an intentional choice to mislead buyers. The body of the tool is the only part that doesn't get a big F from me, but only because it's a thick chunk of steel. I'm returning this and holding out for something else. Probably the Motion Pro kit that I hesitated buying. Pros: * Inexpensive * Easy to use Cons: * Cheap steel * Abysmal tolerances * Falsely advertised for motorcycle use