IMAYCC Bicycle Engine Kit 2 Stroke Motorized Bike Motor Conversion Kit Fit for 26-28" Bikes

I recently purchased and installed this bike engine kit, and despite a few hiccups, I'm ultimately very pleased with the results. The engine itself sounds fantastic. Performance wise, I've had little to no issues since installation.The installation, however, was a bit of an adventure. While the engine itself is relatively straightforward, the included guide book is completely useless. Every comment/review I found recommended skipping it entirely, and I wholeheartedly agree. Save yourself the frustration and head straight to YouTube for a visual walkthrough.A couple of specific installation notes:• Handlebar Hole: The instructions suggest drilling a hole for the throttle cable. I used a center punch, as I do not have a drill. It gave me a clean, precise hole.• Chain Issues: Be warned – the chain that comes with this kit is larger than standard bike chains. My standard chain breaker was completely ineffective. I ended up using my center punch and the spark plug remover from the included tool kit to remove the necessary links. It was a bit of a workaround, but it got the job done.Despite these installation challenges, I'm very happy with the engine. It's powerful, sounds great, and has been reliable. If you're comfortable with a bit of DIY and willing to rely on online resources, this engine is a great value.Tools I used:• Standard Pliers - for nuts• Needle Nose Pliers - for master link• Ratchet with Sockets - for nuts• Phillips Screwdriver - for screws• Center Punch + Hammer - for hole + chain• Allen Keys - for bolts• Tin Snippers - for rubber piece & zip ties• Zip ties - for securing cables• Electrical Tape - for protecting wires*I run standard gasoline + 2 cycle engine oil.

JUnk, Junk, Junk, Did I mention it's junk?Problems right from the start!Got it assembled, fairly easy since I have done 3 similar in the past (not this junk brand) and when I tried it out, the clutch would not engage because the pin they use was not long enough, that took an hour to pinpoint. Went to the farm store and got a bolt, cut it a quarter inch longer and installed it, that lasted for about 8 stop and go cycles and then started to not engage.Pun in a different cut-down bolt and lasted through about 8 cycles and started to not work again.Pulled clutch again and checked engagement rod and discovered that the bottom "lobe" if you want to call it that, of the engagement rod was wore from being a square shape to being rounded after just 16 times of starting the engine.Filled in the edge with the welder and ground it down so it would turn smoothly and assembled it.Got it running and took it for a ride and the muffer decides to split apart, comes off and bounces into the traffic lane where it promptly gets hit by a city bus and flattened, mind you, the engine has been started and ran 17 times and has no more than 3 hours use.I get home, cut the exhaust pipe pipe straight and weld on a lawn mower muffler, get it running and after a dozen or so starts, the clutch is acting up again, tomorrow I will make a new engagement pin out of a Grade 8 bolt and see if it lasts longer.There is no option to contact the seller and since the muffler that came with it is gone, I doubt if they would take it back.Learn from my mistake and keep scrolling past this item, you will be better off as this POS is not worth the time or money.

For me, after four times with this kit, I'm impressed. My first one was built in early spring last year, and is still going straight and strong. They are very reliable once the little bugs are worked out. It takes a bit of tinkering during break in. Micro adjustments will lessen the stress on motors, which can be fragile because they're not metal.The best mod you can do is put cut pieces of tire inner tube to fit in between the engine mounts and the bike itself. This almost free mod, is the best thing to keep it from vibrating things loose. And a close second is the brakes... If you have to GO! You need the WOAH 😉If you want more performance, start with better carb and/or an exhaust pipe with expansion chamber.adjusting the clutch . making sure the chain and everything is lined up right. adjusting carb and breaks, all of these things are necessary and very important so that your project will last.It's best for longevity and performance to break in the engine slowly, with a bit of extra oil in the fuel mixture.My personal IMAYCC 80cc procedure is:30:1 which is 4.3oz of oil per gallon for the first 3 full tanks. Try to vary throttle settings a lot. After the break in tanks, a 40:1 mix is my recommendation for normal use. If a nut/bolt is going to come loose, it usually happens during the break in and "shake down" rides. I use a torque wrench for the important hardware such as engine mounting bolts or chain tensionersI like the size of the tank... Looks average, but is bigger. The small fuel lines get hard and need replaced after a season of riding to prevent leaking next time. They will hold out for quite a while with regular use, but if it sits a lot they will need changed sooner.If the engine seems to be carbonized and sooty, add a couple tablespoons of ATF to the fuel, then run it dry.These kits are awesome! And fun to build! Any questions you could possibly have, are answered easily through a YouTube or Google search. Most 80cc engines have the same processes for maintenance and repairs.Enjoy, Friends 🤠