EX-330

Our home has an existing home theater setup and after a few power outages, the projector was no longer recognizing the signal from the receiver. I tested both the projector and receiver and found the error was a failed balun. This is fairly normal. I considered running a fiber optic HDMI as the distance was under 50ft, but the cable routing of the existing CAT5e cables was too convoluted and difficult to access, I thought a $30 attempt at balun replacement would be a good place to start. Easy swap from a two cable to a one cable HDMI to CAT connection and it worked immediately upon replacement. I saw other reviews stating CAT5e support wasn't capable of handling the signal, but I had no issues. Great value for clear picture and easy replacement. Only gripe is the box was supposed to contain two IR cables and both were missing. Reached out to the seller and they quickly resolved it.

I haven't had it long but awesome product so far. I would give it 10 stars if possible!!! I was having an issue with high definition projection from an Epson 8500UB projector and pioneer receiver It would say Format not support H: V: with no signal. My scenario and cable combination 3 foot cable from DVD to the receiver 12 foot cable from receiver to wall plate HDMI Female keystone 35 foot cable inside wall and ceiling hdmi female keystone 6 foot hdmi cable to projector Eliminating one of the keystones and the 12 foot cable seem to correct it so I knew I was having the dreaded HDMI signal voltage drop. These extender did the trick. Awesome thing is - It comes with two power supplies and only needs one. Based on the other reviews the power supply seem to the the weakness. IT DOES NOT COME WITH INSTRUCTIONS. The only thing I had to do was flip the EQ settings on both sides until I found the right combination. Maybe 10 minutes. I did a complete test before pulling the wire in the ceiling. All worked perfectly!!! Would buy again and highly recommend

getting the right cable was a huge and costly headache -- do not believe their claims of being able to work with cat 5 or cat 6 cable. what they claim to be able to do is to work with any cable that is rated for 1 Gbps and that they will overdrive it and push a 4.9 Gbps signal through it. perhaps for very short distances this actually works. but in reality these misleading claims produce a huge headache and an unusable quality of signal. specifically cat 6 cable does NOT work and don't even think of using cat 5. What does work is a 100 foot cat 6A or cat 7 cable rated for 10 Gbps. Once that was installed the 1920x1080 @ 60Hz signal was great. subtracted 2 stars because of the misleading claims that caused me a huge headache, I foolishly didn't take the extra time to set up a test because of the hassle involved of moving the computer, so instead I ran the cable through the attic and then had to go out and buy another/better cable and run that after I couldn't get the first cable to work. Further Note: originally I had planned to use a wireless system. But after reading tons of reviews I concluded that the wireless systems are unreliable and have poor quality images (the video signal gets compressed and degraded) and I only found one of them where people were happy with the speed. every single wireless unit that I read about (but one) introduces a perceptible delay between the source and the projected (remote) image. if your audio is taken from the source then this delay is unacceptable. that is the reason I chose to go with a wired system even though I really wanted to avoid the install. after reading tons and tons and tons of reviews. I chose this wired system and I am happy to report that with the correct high speed cable, this system works great. I was unable to observe any perceptible delays and the image quality is indistinguishable from a direct connection to the monitor/projector. installation Tips: 1) If possible, test first before you run the cables through walls and attic etc.. I know it's a hassle to move the computer, but it is a much bigger hassle to have to redo everything. 2) this uses some switches to set the signal strength. The thing is though that if the signal is too strong it won't work and if it is too weak it also won't work. and there is not any good indication either, which basically leaves you guessing. With a long cable, try starting at the highest strength setting and work your way down, with a short cable start at the lowest setting and work your way up. Set the computer (video source) to display a static image at the desired resolution. Although not strictly necessary, I found it helpful to cycle the power on the box every time I changed the switch setting (but see below for note about the power). and then wait for about 30 seconds to see if it succeeds in syncing. once I got a signal then I went one step further on the switches. so if you started with the strongest signal go down (weaker) by one more step. and if you started at the weakest signal, go up (stronger) by one more step. this ensures that you are not sitting on the edge of a borderline signal and are solidly in the zone. 3) Power is weird but handy... if you look at the pictures, in a previous model, only one end -- the transmitter -- had a power plug (and supply), the other end did not. In the model that I received, both ends are powered and come with power supplies (aka wall wart). But here is the thing... this system uses POE = Power Over Ethernet. What that does is that it sends DC power over the same cable that is used for the signal. This is a Very Nice Feature. It means that you only have to plug in one side, either the transmitter or the receiver and both sides will receive power. You can also plug in both sides and that does not appear to cause any problems. But note that if you do this and you want to cycle the power on the receiver box you must unplug both it's power and the network cable, otherwise it continues to be powered over the network cable and does not do a reset. 4) The pass through video (AKA Loop video) is very useful for troubleshooting and during configuration of the signal strength setting. the transmitter box has an HDMI Out that you can plug a monitor into. it also has an EDID switch. What EDID does is it allows the computer (or whatever) to ask the monitor what resolutions and frequencies it can display. the computer (or other video source) then selects a resolution that it knows how to support, from the list of available resolutions. But what happens when it can't get a signal from the remote monitor due to a faulty cable? chaos!!! that's what. So to avoid this mess, set the EDID switch to use the directly connected monitor as the source for the resolution info. then you will have a stable video output while you try various signal strength settings. Once you have it working, don't forget to set the EDID switch back to the remote monitor unless the pass through monitor is going to be permanently attached, otherwise the next time you cycle the power you will be back to chaos... Bottom Line: It was a pain to get this working, especially because of them saying it will work with cables that won't actually work (also the docs aren't great, but that is pretty typical). But once you get it running, it is a great system and worth every penny. We are very happy with it, even if I did have to crawl through the attic twice. Disclaimer: I paid full price for everything. I rely heavily on the reviews of other people. If you found this review helpful I would be grateful if you give it a Like. Thank You.

Great product! I’ve been using it successfully since August 2022. It has worked flawlessly. Unfortunately most recently I experienced the screen fluttering and ultimately losing the ability to display media. I’m currently troubleshooting the issue and will see what I come up with. Inspire of this in still impressed by the product!

This product is small and easy to hook up. It works as advertised and a great solution to extend your TV watching to another location. I used Cat 6 cable to run from a sun-room on the first floor to a basement exercise room the distance is about 30 feet, Cat 6 cable 35 feet. When I hooked everything up the picture was great but the sound was very intermittent and unintelligible. The small manual mentions picture quality and recommends changing dip switch settings on the circuit board depending on distance between the two units. I unscrewed the two small screws holding on the cover of the receiving unit, studied the switch settings graphic on the instruction paper and in a guess flipped the #3 switch down (all were up factory setting). Hooked everything back up and checked it before putting the cover back on and viola the sound was great, picture still great, upstairs TV works great, Dish Hopper remote works in the basement to control the TV. Totally happy with this product.

I bought 4 of these to wire up a church that has 2 75 inch 1080p TVs and 1 4k TV. The 2 75 inch TVs are at the front of the sanctuary, 1 at 75 ft and 1 at 120 ft away. Rear TV is 20 ft away. Cabling is brand-new Cat6 cable that was verified working properly. Hooked up the T/R pair to the Rear TV. All okay. Picture is great. Now is where the problems begin. Hooked up the T/R pair to the 1 TV at the front at 75 ft. It would not do 1080p. I could only get 1080i. The 2nd TV at 120 ft. would not work at all no matter what I tried. This product will not transmit that far. I could have handled it if the 2nd TV could have at least received a 1080i signal. So I'm rating this product a 1 star. If you need a T/R pair that goes farther than 75ft. get something else.

I first ran 100' CAT6 shielded and it wouldn't work. Cable tested fine. Disconnected one end of the shield, no signal. Disconnected both ends of the shield, no signal. Replaced the cable with CAT5e non shielded and it works great!

I bought this extender to replace a cheaper unit that had worked for a couple of years sending my NVR’s HDMI output to a TV over ~20 m of Cat6 UTP. Setup was plug-and-play: the picture came up immediately at 1080p/60 and looked good. The issue is that after a few days the TV started showing a small on-screen message saying there was no HDMI signal, along with TX/RX counters. Power-cycling the receiver by the TV did nothing; the only fix was unplugging and replugging the transmitter in the NVR rack. This happened a couple of times per week. As a workaround, I added a smart plug and scheduled it to turn off 30 minutes before we arrive at the office, stay off for 5 minutes, and then turn back on. It hasn’t failed since, but I’m disappointed: this model costs more than my previous extender and still requires a periodic reboot to remain stable. Note: I can’t comment on the bi-directional IR or the HDMI loop-out because I don’t use them.