🔥 Cook smart, cook fast, and never miss a beat!
The Duxtop 1800W Portable Induction Cooktop offers professional-grade cooking power with 15 precise heat settings and an energy-efficient design. Its lightweight, compact form factor and easy-to-clean glass surface make it ideal for busy millennials who value speed, style, and sustainability in their kitchen gadgets.
Voltage | 120 Volts |
Controls Type | Push Button |
Power Source | Induction |
Heating Element | Induction |
Number of Heating Elements | 1 |
Wattage | 1800 watts |
Additional Features | Electric |
Item Weight | 6.2 Pounds |
Item Dimensions D x W x H | 12.7"D x 16.3"W x 3.8"H |
Material Type | Glass, Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene |
Color | Black |
W**O
the Secura DUXTOP 9100MC is an excellent first induction cooktop in my kitchen, now, i'm completely spoiled by it...
After careful research and a few experiments with other folk's induction cooktops (NuWave, Max Burton & Tramontina), I chose the Secura DUXTOP 9100MC and haven't regretted it. While the NuWave claims to have more temperature and power settings, it seemed to me that there was more frequent power cycling at comparable temp/power levels than the 9100MC. Saying nothing bad about Max Burton and Tramontina, I eliminated them for not having as many power and temperature target settings as the 15 levels (each) available on the 9100MC.In order to maintain temperature control, in temperature mode operation, induction cookers have to cycle on and off in order to "hover" around any target temperature. One difference between lesser & better induction cooktops is how much power (actual Watts) is being cycled for any given temperature target. 5 seconds of 1800 Watts/pulse is going to be more energy violent (to whatever is being heated) than 30 seconds of 300 Watts/pulse, even though these two pulses represent the same amount of total power.The 9100MC uses a wider range of Watts/pulse across the range of supported temperature targets than other induction cooktops, so cooking should be gentler across the lower temperature targets. there's a table in the printed manual breaking this all out.In power level mode, I did not notice much power cycling above power level 2.5 (=500W) per power setting, indicating that the 9100MC is providing a more even/continuous flow of power to the induction coils, at each power setting, rather than pulsing fewer fixed power flows across a range of given power settings. I did not test this with an ammeter, but rather by using an IR temperature gun, aimed inside the cookware in use, and observing how water heats at different power levels.The type and quality of induction cookware is going to make a big difference in how any induction cooktop is going to perform. Aside from the magnet test, pure steel is a relatively poor conductor of heat, such that cheap steel pans are going to experience high initial temperature overshoots, in target temperature mode, and actual ring shaped hotspots on the cooking surface side over the course of any prolonged cooking, whether by power level or target temperature.The initial target temperature overshoots occur inside the cookware because the cooktop's temperature sensor is beneath the cooktop's glass surface and NOT inside the actual cookware. There is always going to be a time lag before the heat, reflecting back from the bottom of the cookware, registers with the cooktop's temperature sensor. It is during that initial temp sensor time lag that temperature overshoots can happen INSIDE the cookware (sometimes momentarily exceeding 500F, depending on the pot/pan). Any induction cookware that exhibits ringed hotspots while cooking is going to be VERY PROBLEMATIC for target temperature cooking on ANY induction cooktop, not just the 9100MC.Cast iron cookware can tend to even out the ringed hotspot effect seen with cheap pure steel cookware, but cast iron is generally on the heavy side and can present other cooking issues.What I've chosen to begin collecting for induction cooking is fully bonded, "tri-clad," 18-0 stainless steel (exterior)/full-core 3004 aluminum/18-8 stainless steel(interior) cookware. The 18-0 steel exterior is the induction layer, delivering heat directly to the aluminum core. The 3004 aluminum core rapidly distributes the heat all across the bottom and sides of the cookware, eliminating the ringed hotspot problem. The 18-8 stainless steel interior provides the non-chemically reactive cooking surface. I've really come to admire Vollrath's Tribute line of pots and pans as a result. These Vollrath post/pans have completely flat bottoms, which is also a huge plus for induction cooking. High quality, tri-clad cookware, with excellent heat distribution across the entire cook surface, is a must for accurate, target-temperature-based cooking.Even slightly warped induction cookware, no matter what its composition, is going to produce very uneven heating/cooking performance (which you may or may not want).Partially or non-fully bonded tri-clad cookware can vibrate, between the metal layers, at certain power/temp settings, producing a high pitched whine that may or may not annoy you during cooking. That's because the different metal layers are vibrating against one another, as a direct consequence of the induction process, and ANY air gaps/hollows between layers can then generate audible noise, which will vary from pan to pan. Generally speaking, the higher the power level, the more vibration and the greater chance that there will be a high-pitched whine.I will never use any external steel heat diffusers in an attempt to "adapt" non-magnetic cookware for induction cooking. First, an all-steel diffuser is guaranteed to create ringed hotspots, because steel is a poor conductor of heat, making target temp cooking very problematic. Any induction diffuser essentially turns the highly power efficient induction cooktop, back into a far less efficient, radiant heat hotplate. If I wanted to cook on a hot plate, I would've used a hot plate to begin with. Induction diffusers make no sense to me, but you can always find someone who'll sell one to you.I also took the following dB sound measurements, 3' from the front of each appliance while running:DUXTOP 9100MC = 46-48dBPanasonic 1100W microwave oven = 48-55dBKenmore refrigerator = 40-43dBambient kitchen = 7-13dB (from the center of kitchen, with no motors running)So, the 9100MC is louder than the fridge, but quieter than the microwave. Subjectively, the 9100MC is not too noisy for me. but your own dB readings may vary (depending on the physical condition of your cooling fan/appliances) and everyone is entitled to their sonic preferences.I like the fact that the 9100MC gives audible and visual cues that it is energized and/or cooking. Total silence in operation would be an unwelcomed and dangerous way to go.When not in use, I completely unplug the 9100MC from AC power. When the 9100MC is in use, I make sure that no other appliances on the same circuit (not just the same plug) are ever in concurrent use, 1800W is 1800W.One thing that surprised me when using my older cookware from gas cooking days, on the 9100MC, was the amount of white, waxy build-up that would suddenly appear on the 9100MC's glass cooktop. It turns out that thin oil residue/skin, that builds up over time from radiant heat cooking, on the outside/bottom of cookware (no matter how "clean" it may look to the eye), gets literally boiled off of the cookware, by induction heating, depositing a cloudy "wax" on the cooktop's glass. In order to remove this waxy boil-off and restore the original beauty of the 9100MC cooktop, I used a fish-oil based, light machine oil, as a solvent, a microfiber cloth and the requisite elbow grease.Even though the printed manual says not to place the 9100MC on top of any steel surface, I've found that there are no EM/RF heating effects below the 9100MC when the unit is sitting directly on top of a steel cooking cart or on top of a steel wire rack.The angled control panel is a big plus. There is no way for a pot/pan to damage the panel from direct "hot" contact while on the cooktop surface. I also have faith that the plastic-film covered blister-style control buttons are durable enough for my needs and actually prefer them over "touch" sensor controls. I want the tactile sense that a button has been pressed.The two things most likely to fail, IMO, are the induction coil cooling fan and the glass cooktop. While I have no intention of abusing my 9100MC, I have no idea what kind of bearing system the fan uses (ball bearings=best, sleeve bearing=worst). The printed manual also says the unit cannot support more than 25lbs total load. So, I bit the bullet and purchased a multi-year asurion/Canopy protection policy, as either of these failures would be total showstoppers.The only modification that I made to the 9100MC is to add an air intake filter to the exterior of the case opening for the induction coil cooling fan. I did this to reduce the odds that lint/dust/oil vapor will be sucked inside the case by the fan, without impeding airflow. The filter is made from soft screen material designed for use with overhead cooking exhaust fans and is held in place by a frame of painter's tape.Induction cooking has it's own learning curve. I'm finding that power-level cooking is more useful and successful than target temperature cooking for dynamic, hands on cooking. I never start a "cold" pan in target temperature mode, in order to reduce the risk of initial temperature overshoots. I use an IR temp gun to learn how different pots/pans perform on the induction cooktop. I find the 9100MC's wider variety of power and target temp settings, in the low and medium ranges, are very useful and sufficiently granular for my cooking needs -- along with understanding how my different pots/pans actually perform.I have no need for the 9100MC to have a 212F target temp setting. I live at sea level. If I want 212F, then I cook in boiling water or with atmospheric steam and let the water/steam control 212F. Or, I will use a convection oven set to 212F. I do want very even heating/energy delivery at whatever setting I pick and the 9100MC delivers that in spades. Induction cooking, once mastered, makes it very difficult to accidentally burn food, and opens up slower/lower-temp dynamic/interactive cooking as a whole new world to explore.As far as Lafraise is concerned, I have no complaints. I will say that Amazon shipping did not do a first class job of packaging the retail 9100MC box for shipping. The Amazon box was holed in transit and there was inadequate padding inside the Amazon box, such that the retail packaging suffered a minor puncture. My 9100MC arrived undamaged and fully functional, but Amazon needs to do a better job to protect Lafraise's good reputation in the Marketplace by shipping more promptly, with better protective packaging.
J**R
Surprise: The low temp setting will go to 100 degrees.
This is a preliminary review since my wife has not cooked with it yet, it arrived about an hour ago and she already made food this evening. The cooktop came in a sturdy and attractive box well padded with styrofoam. The unit is nice to look at, solid enough but remember it is made out of glass and plastic so treat it with some delicacy or you will break it and it will be your fault. I worked for several decades repairing kitchen appliances including induction stoves and cooktops.This purchase for my home is intended for use during a power failure primarily because it is fast, much faster than gas and it is easy to clean. We tested the unit using both a pot and a frying pan, their bottoms are perfectly flat and the diameters of the bottoms (this is very important) were larger than the inner circle BUT smaller then the outer circle, if you place a cooking utensil that overlaps the outer circle by much you will have edges that are considerably cooler than the inner portion, if you are dealing with liquids you might get by if you stir the content.If you use pots that reach or are very close to the plastic edges and you cook long enough the edges will crack or warp. In my brief testing it boiled 2 cups of water in about 2 minutes in a pot with high sides and a lid, the same 2 cups in a frying pan boiled in about a minute and a half no lid, the power setting defaults to 5 and after about 30 seconds I changed it to 10. One very pleasant surprise is that the product description on Amazon states the temperature range is between 140-460 degrees F but during testing the low temp dropped all the way down to 100 degrees so you should be able to melt chocolate without burning it.If you manage not to break the glass top or warp the plastic sides the most likely first source of failure is the membrane over the push buttons, over time it will harden and crack; to prolong its life occasionally wipe with a damp cloth, avoid using cleansers they will cause the membrane to crack sooner. Ceramic top cream will lessen the chance of scratching the glass top and it will keep it looking brand new longer.I will update my first impressions as the cooktop gets more use...since I gave it 5 stars on first impressions it can only go downhill from here :-)
J**K
Good induction burner
Good induction burner. Bought Feb 2016. It has just died. 9 years of not heavy use. I guess that's good enough. It was a bit noisy. I notice these days some claim to be quieter. I'll try one of those this time.
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