BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB 8mm 0.31in Connector Kit 14pcs Transparent Connector 5pcs 15cm Long 20AWG Extension Wires for Non-Wired Gapless Solderless,FCOB 2 pin v+ v- Single Color Strip Corner Connection

Perfect for adding more lights, easy to use just insert both ends and pinch with pliers.No waste of lights, perfect for long runs of light,And they don’t leave any dark spots..

Es impresionante lo bien que funciona y lo fácil que es de unir las tiras de led, solo seguir bien las instrucciones

I use this on my version of Disneyland layout within the Fort. I cut the light to the length I needed without any diminishing of the light. Unlike a lot of other lights, I appreciate that I can set the light intensity to my desired output and it remembers that setting for the next time I operate the layout. The adhesive backing is perfect and holds tight on my train board's painted surface. The light strip does not take up much space where needed. I may have to buy two more for other placements since those do not have the memory setting.

They're great when they work but you have no idea if the connection will actually work until you compress them. If the connection fails, then the copper tab on the light strip is ruined and so is that connector. Then you have to shorten your light section and try another copper connection point. Very frustrating!! However, if the connection IS successful, its a huge time saver over soldering and a more reliable connection than soldering. I wish there was a way to verify the connection was good before you compress them but I don't see how that can be possible.

I used the 8mm, 2-connector version to connect COB LED strips from Home Depot. The original Home Depot kit came with a power supply, a lot of wire, including a Y-connector, but by itself was not adequate for a fairly small under-cabinet lighting project, because it didn't provide a way to make connections over short spaces. One issue I had was that I needed to put some of the lights on the bottom of an under-cabinet radio (remember those?), and with the original kit alone it was impossible to do that neatly.With these connectors I was able to cut the original strips *and* the wiring, and make new connections anywhere I needed them. I was even able to cut the pins off the end of the COB strips and insert the short stub with the pins into one of these connectors to make a new male or female pin connector on the end of a wire. The original 20 AWG wire also fitted into the connector, so I didn't need to use the wire that came with the kit - I have that for a future project.I had no problems making the connections - I used needle-nose pliers, so had to come in at an angle, but it probably would have been fine if I'd used a smallish pair of regular flat-end pliers. Every connection worked first time, and I had no damage.It took me a while to figure out which of the many kits available on Amazon was the right one for my project, but I'm very happy with this choice.

This kit is garbage. Do yourself a favor and put your money towards a good soldering iron and some 18 gauge wire, and solder the wires directly to the LED strips.Here's the problems.First, it comes with 22 ga wire, which is only suitable for short runs (generally 18 ga is recommended by most knowledgeable sources to avoid voltage drop).Second, the wires are designed to insert into the connector with no insulation stripped, and the copper connectors are designed to slice through the wire insulation when you crimp them. The problem is the 22 ga wires provided fit too loosely into the plastic connector, so when you go to crimp the copper connector spades into the wire, the wire can move far enough to one side that there is no connection. And once you crimp the connector and realize there's a bad connection, there's no way to uncrimp it or fix it other than cutting it off at the next joint and starting over with a new connector.I had one wire that easily pulled out after I crimped it, and I could even easily slide that wire or even a new wire all the way back in beside the copper crimp connector spade. Attached picture shows this failed connection problem. The black didn't even come close to connecting after crimping and easily pulled out. I clipped the other 4 wires as there's no way to "uncrimp" and reuse the connector. I then slipped a new wire (supplied in the kit) into the failed hole all the way past the crimp connector spade to show that the problem is the hole doesn't securely hold the wire dead center of the copper crimp spade. I did this to prove that the failed connection couldn't have potentially been due to me accidentally crimping without the wire fully inserted.Third, I also bought 18 ga wire, and it is too big to go into the wire holes of the plastic connector. And you can't strip it because each wire hole is open on the sides with the adjoining wire hole which would allow shorting between the wires (it's basically a two wire oval hole and a 3 wire oval hole instead of 5 separate round single wire holes). But even if it had 5 individual wire holes, the design is intended to have wire insulation inserted for the copper crimp connector to penetrate and hold the wire tightly against the copper connector spade.So in short, the primary problem is the wire holes in the plastic piece are too big for 22 ga and too small for 18 ga (unless you drill them out slightly). It's possible the copper crimp spades may not be dead center of the wire holes as well, but in any event, you'll likely have failed connections when using the wire & connectors supplied in the kit. Plus there's no way to fix or reuse a connector after you crimp it, and the wire size they supply is too small for long runs.

We installed these under our cabinets to brighten up the countertop and also to use as a nightlight. These LED strip lights create a very even and diffused pattern making them very soft on the eyes. We have been using them for 9 months now and have not had any issues.