FreudIndustrial Glue Line Ripping Saw Blade with Premium Tico Hi-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for Maximum Performance - 10" Diameter, 30 Teeth, TCG Grind - LM74R010

Great blade for fast, clean rip cuts on a portable table saw. The thickness keeps it from bending as much when you're technique isn't perfect. It leaves a pretty smooth cut if you run stock through a bit slower and leaves just the faintest blade marks if you push through quickly - which is easy to do cuz this blade devours wood. Great blade to have for ribbing lumber on a jobsite

I have several of these blades in our company shop and they work excellent and re-sharpen very well. I'll continue to buy these for our table saws.

I have a jointer so cleaning up after a rough rip is no big deal. But, with my other thin kerf rip blade, a Freud 24 tooth one, it still meant that I had to plan ahead. That is, I had to cut parts oversize so I could joint both sides even if the rip was pretty clean. The biggest problem was that the thin kerf blade had problems ripping boards that were not "perfectly" flat. When I would buy hardwood, I would have to rip it right away. If the board had a chance to twist, ripping, especially relatively thin strips, was difficult. You could almost see the blade vibrate. Stabilizers didn't help. One could argue that you shouldn't be working with non-flat boards in the first place. Thinking back, I don't know why I have ANY thin kerf blades. I have a powerful enough table saw so that thick or thin doesn't matter. I can see where some craftsmen who must take a small, portable, table saw to the job site might need thin kerfs. I tried ripping both pine and oak with this blade. I thought the speed of cut was somewhat faster than the 24 tooth and the rips were, as is advertised, "glue line" ready. There wasn't any tearing or burning. I didn't try ripping any warped boards. I really like Freud blades and that is all I buy anymore except when I have a crude, non furniture, job like ripping deck boards. Then, I use the cheapest disposable I can find. I like the fact that Freud blades have recommendations printed on the side of the blade. That is, a blade may be good for crosscuts in general but not as good for melamine. So, if you are like me and have about 4 or 5 blades that you can choose from, you can choose the one that should give the best results for the material and type of cut. Just be careful when you are cleaning because the cleaner can remove all of the markings.

Nice blade but it will not replace a jointer and I didn’t expect it to. I ripped some 1 1/2 white oak bout 10 feet long and it did a great job it’s sharp that’s for sure.

Freud quality rip blade. No issues upon receipt. Have ripped a bunch of stock for a project and it has performed well.

This is the blade I keep mounted in my table saw. Ripping or crosscut, this blade produces a smooth cut and rarely burns unless I pause feeding for some odd reason. This is a full kerf blade and doesn't deflect when cutting mitered corners for a picture frame. I produces a flat bottomed groove because every fourth tooth has a flat top. The other teeth are angled and are responsible for the smoothness of the cut. I have purchased three so far, two for my table saw, on for my sliding miter. I must send one out for sharpening because without realizing I cut some composite siding and dulled one of them. However, this is an industrial blade with extra thick carbide, so I expect it will come back good as new ever after several sharpenings. There is a thin kerf version, but I found it deflects slightly on hardwood miters and spoils the frame corner fit. It is still practically new, but I'm spoiled to the full kerf versions. This is by far the best general purpose blade I've ever used, and if you are cutting a glued up panel, you NEED this blade.

Works like a charm. The Cut looks sanded and smooth. It does crosscut well too.

I have been using a Freud 24T Thin Kerf blade for the past year ripping mainly white oak and poplar in thicknesses ranging from 3/4 through 6/4. It had the Perma-Shield coating and has worked very well for me. I did notice some blade burn on thicker hardwoods which I believe was from blade vibration on the thin kerf.In looking for another rip blade for thicker stock I noticed many reviewers mention the slick feel of the Silver Ice Coating. I will say, to the touch this finish seems a lot slicker than the red Perma-Shield coating. Freud recommends this for cuts up to 1" but I just ripped several hundred feat of rock hard quarter sawn which oak in rough-cut 6/4 thickness. Lengths were 14' and this powered right through with no burning and easy feed pressure. I believe the thicker 1/8" kerf also kept the blade vibration to a minimum. The finished edge on the wood was easily glue-up ready and if left exposed would require minimal sanding. It left a better finish than my jointer or planer does.Price was excellent versus the competing brands I saw. Delivery was quick and the packaging was perfect.As always, blade performance on a saw is directly related to the proper tune of the saw. I was using this on a freshly tuned Delta X5 Unisaw, 5HP motor, Unisaw Fence, with freshly waxed table.I won't hesitate to purchase this blade again once I wear it out and can no longer have it sharpened!With the better success of using a thicker kerf I am now interested to try out the Freud Thick Stock Rip Blade which they recommend for stock up to 3 1/2" thick!