25112 Ball Joint Separator, Adjustable Ball Joint Separator Tool, 2-3/8" Max Opening Range, Ball Joint Removal Tool for Trucks, Cars, and SUVs, Works with 3/4" Socket or Wrench

Worked great on an '82 VW lower ball joint, to separate it from the control arm. It does not remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. For that you will need to make a custom tool. (See Samba for instructions). I also used this on the upper ball joint to separate the ball joint from the upper steering kuckle. Removing the upper ball joint from the control is just two bolts.

This little press worked great on my lower control arm ball joints. I thought I was never going to be able to break the ball joints loose. After hours of heating and beating a pickle fork with a hammer with no luck what so ever , I ordered this little tool as a last resort and I am so glad I did. It worked like a champ. I did still heat up the metal around the ball joint and the shaft of the ball joint. When I got through with the torch, I applied this tool and with a few turns the ball joint made a loud pop and it was out. If you are having problems trying to replace your ball joints or needing a good press for a tight area, this is a super great tool to have in your tool box. There are several different styles of pullers or press for ball joint removal, this one worked great on my lower control arms for a 2004 Chevrolet silverado Z71. Thanks!

Not much to write except that they meet the usual quality of the OEM tools brand. They usually are one of the best brands for special tools. It got the job done.

bends then pops off. great. idea and shape, soft metal ruins it.

Decent tool for the money. It's a nock-off of U.S.A. made OTC separator at a nock-off price. It seems well made; drop forged body. Two big differences with the U.S.A. made one. First the two forks that hook around the spindle/nuckle are much thinner than the original. They have held up removing ball joints on smaller trucks and cars but not sure if I would trust them on a F350 or the likes. Second, the end of the press bolt that contacts the stud does not swivel. This makes the tool tend to want to walk off the stud. I haven't had it happen yet but it is a cheap tool design that could lead to a big fat booboo. The problem with the press bolt can be fixed by modifying it, (that's what I did) but even with it being a cheap nock-off you should not have to do that in my opinion. Just Buyer Beware!

Worded great getting the outer tie-rod ends off a 2017 Ford Focus. You have two options when using the tool: a flat surface via the large hex nut, or remove the hex nut for a small sphere. The spherical end did the trick for me, keeping the tool centered on the stem of the ball joints I was removing. I would lubricate the threads on the tool stem before use. They come dry out of the box and lubricating them with a little motor oil noticeably reduces the required torque.

I had one stubborn lower ball joint. This tool plus a little heat from a propane torch and some WD40 and PB blaster and a deadblow hammer and it popped out. I tighted this tool with quite a bit of torque and it handled it pretty well. The other lower joint, this tool just pushed it out with ease. I was able to find a All Data procedure and they called for this kind of tool specifically. Some forums will just tell you to use a BIGGER hammer, but this tool you don't damage your knuckle or control arm. Its definitely the way to go.

If you Google “ball joint stuck” just about every answer you’ll find will say “Use a BFH”. A hammer or even a sledge never worked for me, I beat on the knuckle for hours, didn’t budge. Pickle fork wouldn’t get it & any puller I had didn’t have big enough jaws to get over the knuckle & joint. This tool got the joint out so easily, worth every penny. Im here to tell you, if you can’t get it out with a hammer or pickle fork. This tool will get it.