Loctite Super Glue Plastics Bonding System, Clear Kit, 1-0.14 oz Activator Stick + 1-0.07 oz Glue Tube

EDIT: Two years later and still holding strong. I recently had to pull apart some silicone rubber that I had glued to PVC. The glue bond was extremely strong, the rubber tore without the glue bond ever letting go at all. That's the most you could ask for. It also works well for metal to plastic. I keep this handy for all sorts of plastic repairs and builds.First I'll have to say that the little tube of glue that comes with this turned out to be useless, it just glued itself shut. Not a big problem as there was a large bottle of Locktite superglue handy, so I used that.The activator agent comes in a metal tube with a felt tip, similar to a magic marker or Sharpie. The fluid is clear and hard to see, but it does come out and you can smell it. I treated both surfaces to be glued, even if one wasn't plastic. After the fluid evaporates you use the superglue just like normal.I was happily gluing silicone rubber tubes to a softer silicone rubber base with no problems. Adhesion is fast and strong. Then I read that this is NOT for silicone rubber. Oh well, I don't care, it works great and is easy to use. The bond is often stronger than the silicone itself. What more could you want?There was plenty of the activator for my use, in fact I have some left over.

I've used this before, but when I needed a fast glue recently, my old tube was hardened, so I bought these. The glue works great and gives you just enough time to get pieces in place before it hardens. Unfortunately, if you don't use the whole thing fairly quickly, it'll harden and be unusable. That's why this set of six is so handy - if I through one away, I'm still good to go...

I was tired of regular house number decals peeling away from my polypropylene mailbox. I was able to use this to attach some molded plastic house numbers.Regular glue wouldn't hold very well, even after scuffing up both surfaces. The plastic house numbers would quickly break off, even with conventional superglue. Fortunately the dried superglue only stuck to the back of the letters rather than ruining the mailbox!This stuff was able to grip and hold firmly with only a few seconds of pressure.First I roughed up the back of the numbers with coarse sandpaper. Then I held them in place against the mailbox and traced their outlines, so I'd know where to put the activator. Since the mailbox didn't take marker or pencil very well, I lightly scored the outlines with a pocket knife.Then I filled in the outlines of all numbers with the activator. I also applied the activator to the back of the molded numbers. This allowed the activator some time to do its thing. After that, I traced a thin line of the glue over the prepped area on the mailbox and pressed the numbers in, held it with some pressure for about five to ten seconds, and repeated for each number.The house numbers have held on firmly for the last couple of weeks, including some very rough storms and hot, sunny summer days. So I'm going to chalk this up as a success.

Comes with a little sharpie-like primer that you just glide along both edges, and the tube of glue itself, to be applied to only one edge. BE SURE TO USE PROTECTIVE GLOVES. I used ordinary, very thin vinyl ones available for cheap on Amazon. The glue won't hurt you, it's just that it's very difficult not to get it on your hands, dries immediately, and takes at least 24 hours to get it all off if you keep picking at it. Better to get the gloves and avoid that problem. I used it to glue together two panels at the bottom of my car driver's seat: the power seat-control panel on the side, and the adjoining one on the bottom front. I glued two little pegs inserted into holes, plus the seam where the panel meets the front panel. I had to do this because the rear panel at the back of the seat is missing, which normally holds everything in place, so the entire assembly was hanging down. Now it seems to be holding pretty solidly. I glued them together about three weeks ago. I'll give an update in if and when it ever comes apart again.

)Save your money - does not work, at least not reliably. I tried to use it to repair a broken watch band loop. It's made of a thick rubbery plastic that seemed like the ideal application for this glue. The break was fresh, the rubber was clean, directions were followed, and the result was a bond that failed within 24 hours. Perhaps there is something about the material these watch bands are made of that makes them incompatible with this glue, but the list of things it's supposed to work on would give you he impression that shouldn't be the case. In any event, unless your a trained chemist specializing in synthetics, you're likely not going to know one plastic from another and which glues are compatible with which plastics.Also, as many users noted, consider this a single-use product, possibly two times if you're lucky. While there is plenty of glue for multiple repairs, the nozzle seals itself once exposed to air in spite of the cap being securely attached. At that point, you can get one more application (assuming you think you have something this will work on) by puncturing the metal tube with a needle or push pin. I had enough of the 'primer' for at least two repairs had I elected to try to use it again, but I don't know how much more beyond that.Even though you can't return this (hazardous material handling required), Amazon made good with a refund anyway, so kudos to them for continuing to maintain a relatively high bar for customer service.Addendum: One thing I forgot to mention is that Amazon carries replacement strap loops - they run around eight or nine dollars. Pretty expensive for no more than they are, but still cheaper than a whole new band. In lieu of that, after the glue failed, I went with a 79-cent o-ring from my local Ace. It may not last as long as the original or replacement band loops, but they're easy to put on and I can several for the $8 it would cost for a replacement loop, not to mention the cost of a new band.