ELEGOO Mars 4 Resin 3D Printer with 7" 9K Monochrome LCD Screen COB UV Light Source and Screen Protector Printing Size 153.36mm*77.76mm*175mm

The media could not be loaded. Update #2 - I figured I'd reach out to Elegoo customer service. Within 24 hours they're already getting me a replacement LCD. I'm actually really impressed. Customer for life, now. <3Update: whelp, it happened. I guess a tiny fragment of resin made some pressure and cracked the LCD. Nothing like a $90 repair less than 90 days in. I wish I had grabbed a different model. The Mars 3 has an LCD that is only $29 to replace. Also, I started having issues shortly after the initial review with the Z bar groaning towards the bottom of the print when it would be just lowering the build plate to the screen. I used some gun oil to lube it up and the groaning went away, but it started resulting in warped prints even before the cracked lcd. I don't recommend this product - look for one that is far more sturdy. I'm so disappointed.I love this thing. I love it SO much. I love making minis, I love painting them. I love model kits. This thing can help me make all of those things AND... it can pay for itself - print some things for your pals, have thempay you a little $ for the resin, pay off your own machine and the resin. Win/win/win.The -only- complaint I have is that the instruction manual is way too empty. There are so many things to research about resin printing or 3D printing in general. Here's the best "general help guide" I can give.1. You're going to want to print more things than just the Rook file on the thumb drive. You'll need to use software to do so. There are programs on the drive, I personally prefer Lychee Slicer. It crashes way less (almost never), the options are much easier to understand... I think it's just all around better. Look up Youtube guides on how to use this software. They will help IMMENSELY because the instructions don't say so but knowing how to use the software is CRUCIAL to having solid prints.2. Your prints will fail. It is okay. When they do, clean everything up. Strain your resin (as long as it hasn't been contaminated with rubbing alcohol or any water, etc) through a mesh strainer to get rid of ANY hard/cured bits. I personally would strain it into an empty bottle or something but I put mine back in the OG bottle because I didn't know what was and wasn't safe for liquid resin lol. But just remove the cured bits out of the resin vat, gently pop off the cured bits on the FEP (clear plastic screen at the bottom of the vat) and REALLY try not to scratch/dent that up. Remove anything from your build plate, clean up with some IPA 99% if you want (I do because I like to just make sure everything is clean and ready to go like new to avoid gunk building up) and go back to the software to review your structures.Also there are a TON of groups online of people who support each other and share tips on printing. Facebook/Reddit/Discord/Telegram etc. Look them up!You do NOT have to level your build plate after the first time leveling it unless you get a failed print, then you may want to.The instructions say to use a "card" to level the build plate - just put a piece of paper between the plate and the LCD screen and press down on it "firmly" (don't hulk smash it, just hold it down like you're trying to keep the paper from flying away) and then tighten the screws. Zero it, lift it, put the vat it, hit Home -IF IT MAKES A HORRIBLE GRINDING NOISE WHEN GOING DOWN AND WONT ZERO OUT - the plate is super uneven and trying to force its way down another fraction of a mm and can't because one of the corners is likely super uneven. Just do the level once. The piece of paper is there to see if it's not super uneven, you don't have to worry about perfect spacing. As long as the plate sortof grips the paper while you pull away, that's fine.That crunching noise or popping noise when the plate is coming up? That's totally fine. It's actually good - it means your resin is being pulled off of the FEP, so listen for that beautiful fffffffpop noise <33. Wanna know how your print is doing? Just pause the print. It'll raise the build plate all the way up and you'll be able to check the status. Wanna resume? Hit the play button. Just try not to keep it from doing its thing for too long, especially in an area where the resin might be in danger of curing (though I'd keep the machine out of the sun at all costs tbh)Also - you can hollow out prints to save resin, time, money, and weight. It's frustrating at first because you'll learn about suction cups and drain holes. Holy cow, they're annoying to figure out lol. This is why I like Lychee's slicer the best - the drain holes are awesome and there are even "objects" you can put into the mesh of your STL to prevent hollowing and to plug holes. They're called "blockers" and work great.I hope this helps. Overall, I think the print quality of this machine is stellar. As good as any WotC mini I've bought at the store. It's satisfying to use, though the frustration behind the very vague manual is there. That's the worst part, in my opinion. Although, Elegoo, I have experience with technical support, troubleshooting, and customer service support. I'd be happy to help you write something a little more in-depth that might help you avoid returns and refunds. Just a thought!TL;DR:The Elegoo Mars 4 resin 3D printer is a great tool that prints high quality miniatures, model kits, and other objects with the added bonus of potential profitability. While the instruction manual lacks depth, personal tips include exploring software like Lychee Slicer, managing print failures effectively, simplifying build plate maintenance, monitoring print progress, and utilizing advanced techniques for efficiency. Despite manual frustrations, the printer's superb print quality makes it a worthy investment for hobbyists and professionals alike.

Amazing product, easy to use and set up, way affordable, the only thing is it's hard to clean, but that's gonna be the case with any resin printer, I didn't think Id need the washing/curing station but i was wrong, if you get this printer just get the washing/curing station and save yourself some time and frustration

Worked straight out of the box perfectly with no need for bed leveling and straight forward enough for me who’s printed exclusively with fdm. Look forward to posting some pics of the quality of the prints sometime.

At the last second i decided to order a replacement instead of returning it. I did see several people on-line had issues with their original unit. Based on the new one, I'm upgrading from 2 stars to 4 stars. It seems the original unit did have some issues. This one worked more as expected.I can't give it 5 stars because the lack of documentation is almost inexcusable. Elegoo provides almost no documentation that will make your first (or any other) print successful. The information they do have is dated, conflicting, and really of very little use. I almost took off 2 stars. It's that bad. However, once you figure things out on your own, it gets better.1. I think one of the biggest problems is they provide no resin with the product. I understand that from a cost perspective, but where they fail is in recommending what resin you should start with. If you are not going to include it, then at least recommend something that will work with your included test build. Ignore the manual where they say you can just plug it in and print the test rook. Unless you have EXACTLY the resin they used (which is not listed) and the same temperature range (again not listed) there is a good chance your first model will fail badly. For example: The resin I ordered is manufactured by Elegoo. The default print (the rook chess piece) is set for a 2.5 second exposure. My resin requires an 8 second or greater exposure. That's just one setting. None of the defaults would work with the resin I ordered.2. Leveling this thing is a beast. Once you figure out what kind of resistance the paper should have you are good, but there is nothing to guide you. You just have to figure out what level 'feels like' when you pull on the paper. In my case it was a lot more tension than their videos or documentation led me to believe. Also why in the hell did you not put in the manual that you need to tighten the screws in a certain order. I had to find a YouTube video to figure that one out.3. Please provide the link to your Resin settings. It's pitiful I had to find this through Reddit and not your own documentation. It's a G-Drive link to a spreadsheet that gives you the 'magic' settings you need to use with their different resins and printers. Why you would not have the most critical thing one needs for a successful build clearly documented and easily available is beyond me.4. Two functions are all but undocumented. Number one is you can hit the pause button during a print to see what is printing. You don't have to wait 4.5 hours for the Rook to print to see what it's doing. Hit the pause button and the unit raises the platform. You can see if it's doing anything or not. The second is the tank cleaning function. It basically makes a very thin layer across the whole bottom of the vat. Much easier to pull up in some cases.5. Provide instructions or at least links to how to actually use the software you are providing. The only thing your documentation tells me is how to activate it.6. If you choose to do none of the above, then please advertise that your printers are not for beginners and you need a lot of training to use them successfully. I had no expectations that 3d printing would be plug and play, but it's more like plug and pray. That's not good.Elegoo if you get nothing else out of this review, then setup your customers to have a successful first experience instead of fighting to figure it out.With that ALL said... once it works... it's pretty darn good assuming you have a fully functional unit and you have all the information on your resin. I just hope you don't get a bad unit like I did because it makes it 10x harder to figure out how it works.Original review: I REALLY wanted this printer to work. But in the end, it simply does not. I literally tried everything I could think of or read on-line, and the results were always the same. Sometimes I got the first layer, most of the time I got nothing. Cleaned the vat and everything more times than I can count. Tried every simple build I could find... absolutely nothing but drips at best. Tried multiple types of resin. Room is temperature controlled and well ventilated. It really appears your luck with this is just that. Luck. It's hit or miss if it works. From what I can read if it works, it does great. And if it does not work (as in my case) it's just an awful experience.