19mm Latching Push Button Switch

The switch is labeled C, NO, NC, which stands for continuous, normally open, normally closed. The C is the + and the NO or NC goes to the light/motor or whatever. The difference is what happens when you push the button. It either opens or closes the circuit.To push the button in to close the circuit or “turn on” (most common), the NO is the one you want. Yellow wire not used in this scenario.The bottom terminal is the black/ground.The top terminal is paired with the normally open wire (my scenario) which will turn the switch light on when pressed in, off when pressed out.If you want the light to be always on, then you need to pair it with the C terminal.I hope that helps.

Don't bother reading any of the documentation or specs they publish, it is all wrong. I got this because they stated 2cm on the thread length, it's actually a little over 18mm. If you're trying to put this through 3/4 ply, it won't fit.The plastics they use for the wire housing is also really cheap. My first one, the clip entire broke off the first time I took it off. I replaced it and the replacements clip broke the first time I pushed it on. I'm not being rough either, just a straight push on.Once you get it working, it runs just as expected, lights up great (follow other reviewers instructions, the manual is for a different product) and it switches great.For those of you trying to get the button to light up when the device is turned on, you need to splice the blue and red wires together along with the hot line to your device you're turning on. Green is positive, black is negative (shared with your devices ground). Cut the yellow (that's always on).

The media could not be loaded. Needed a toggle switch to manually power on my taillights and bypass the car's lighting control. It's a long story why and no one wants to hear it. For my application the installation needed some modification. I didn't use the lock nut, because the hole I made was a tight fit, made with a Klein Tools #3 unibit. I had to cut off some of the plastic where the connectors are, for the switch to fit in the housing. The instructions came with different wiring diagrams, depending on how you want your switch to operate. I wanted it, push in: switch LED illuminates, load powers on, then push out: switch LED turns off and load turns off as well. The instructions display how to wire this. Except in the diagram there is a white wire. I don't think you see a white wire in my picture. When I took my car to the auto mechanic who was going to wire up the line/load. I gave him the diagram and after a couple attempts it became clear the instructions were no good. So he just tried different splices until the switch at least functioned, except it was the reverse of what I wanted. Push in: switch LED turns off, load turns off. Push out: switch LED turns on, load turns on. I have to say, this arrangement is better than I hoped, because once the button is in the out position plus lit, it looks more prominent rather than being sunken in and lit up. Not bad. It works at least. One just has to meddle with it a little.

Installed in 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 to fake emergency brake on so I can do admin function on my stereo headset. It fulfills the purpose. What I really wanted was a normally on momentary switch that I could push to switch off when pressed then on when released. This on/off switch does the job but with 2 pushes. It functions nicely.