FSA Orbit MX 1-1/8Inches Threadless MTB Road Headset with Top Cap, Black, NO.20, XTE1504

I always try to buy the best value bike products for the money. Some people just buy the most expensive or whatever the bike "professionals" says are the best. I could have just bought a Chris King headset and been done with it and lived without beer for a month. But I, like most cyclists, don't have an unlimited budget. I have to decide on what will get me the farthest for my buck.I needed to replace a worn out cage bearing headset on my gravel bike. I could have bought a direct replacement for about $15 and it probably would have lasted a couple of years. I decided to look for a sealed bearing headset that would be less than $50. I really didn't think I'd find one. Enter the FSA Orbit headset $39 sealed bearings and doesn't look like cheap flimsy POS. I have always had good luck with FSA products such as handlebars, stems etc.I rated it a 5-star for installation because I had my local bike shop do it for me :). It is very smooth feeling in the head tube and adjusts very easily. I will update you on its sturdiness after a few months of dusty riding.I don't know what it weighs, and I don't careThere were cheaper headsets on Amazon that claimed to be sealed but I couldn't pronounce the names so I passed.Overall, I could not be happier. If your headset doesn't say "Chris King" in giant letters across it, I don't think anyone will ever know or care what kind of headset you have. I know I don't. If it works, it works.Overall 4.7/5

Item arrived in good condition and matched the description. I have done a few bicycle rehabs so I have the tools needed to replace these. Once everything was back together, this headset was super smooth and I really like having sealed bearings. Any future rehab projects that need headsets I will give serious consideration to using these again.

Update: About 500 miles now with the new headset. Still turning very smoothly. I had to tighten the top cap once after a few bumpy rides, but I suspect that is just the slack from my install tightening down some more with my weight.Good quality parts with aluminum cups. I had a steering indexing issue (bike wanted to lock on straight position). Packaging was nicely wrapped despite not being in original packaging and comes with all the pieces in install order. This unit should fit 1 1/8" threadless headsets that uses external cups. Top/Bottom cups, dust O-rings (x2) pre-installed, crown race, sealed cartridge bearings top cover, top cap with bolt, star nut are all included in this headset. Compared to the caged bearings on the old headset, this sealed cartridge unit turns way smoother with less headset movement. This also fixed my indexing issue mentioned above. I will update my review later since I only rode with this new headset a few miles.This was my first headset replacement, took about 3 hours of careful work on my steel frame and fork. The longest part was removing the old headset.For removal of old headset, you will need:1. 1/2" PVC Pipe (longer than your headtube)2. Hacksaw3. Razor blade (from a box cutter)4. Rubber Mallet5. Flathead screwdriverStep One: Remove Handlebars and spacers. Tap the top of the fork carefully while holding the bottom of fork to slide out.Step Two: With the PVC pipe, make 2 cuts at one end linear with the pipe. Cut about 2". Then force the ends out to create a taper.Step Three: Slide the PVC pipe into the headtube so the pipe ends rests on either top/bottom cups. Tap with the mallet to pop cups off.Step Four: On the fork, use the mallet to tap the razor blade between crown race and fork. (Took me 30 minutes). Finish with a screwdriver for removalFor install, you will need:6. Rubber Mallet7. 1 1/4" PVC Pipe with cap8. Grease (I used automotive hub grease)9. Block of woodStep Five: Install the top and bottom cups. Make sure you use the mallet carefully with the block of wood over the cups to protect it. A few whacks will get it flush. Use grease to apply around headtube and inner cups.Step Six: Install new crown race. Slide the pipe over the fork steerer tube and use the 1 1/4" PVC pipe to tap the race into place (fork steering tube tapers out slightly).Step Seven: Slide the fork back in, add the slotted compression ring, add the top cover, then tighten the top cap. Then tighten stem.

so im fixing up a 2012 raleigh mtb i found for cheap only issue was the headset was missing pieces so i bought this kit. in the end it worked out and makes the bike look way better. Just make sure you have the right tools to get the job done. this is a whole set so if youre upgrading and want to install correctly you need to remove the old cups and remove the old crown race which can be a pain without the right tools. Youtube has some helpful vids for DIYers. back to the headset it looks great and bike turns very smooth. also keep in mind it has no spacers for your stem height so get some if you need some or use your old ones.

Seems good didn't use it yet

This is very well made. 1st headset I've ever done and went well.. Looks great. Is smooth as butter!! Can't believe how smooth and tight my front end is now!!

My old fork and steering need some work but not worth the hours nowadays for local bike shop to fix it. So I decided to get new headset and fork and replace them together at our local bike shop. The new headset and fork works seamlessly. Bike rides like a dream! I would say don't give up with your old folk or get new bikes. Just give your old friend a chance and it will shine again!

I have this headset on both of my hardtails! Great headset!!! Easy to install and the sealed bearings are pretty nice! Steering is so responsive!