Aupoko R134A Valve Core Quick Remover Installer, High Low Pressure Valve Core Remover Tools Kit for R13A Refrigerant Air Conditioner System

great thing. sometimes you need to bend the tip a little to get a better grip, but overall it works great.

The tip that unscrew the valve was too wide and didn’t hold the valve in the tool when pulling it out. I had to screwed it back with the tool and adjust the tool tip a little with a plier, using the new valves to make sure it will stay attached to the tip of the valve removal tool and don’t fall off. That adjustment worked and I was able to make the repair.

Thus tool was just what I needed. I watched a few videos of people doing the job but only one was specific on how to do it and what to expect. The connection was nice and snug no leaks. Attaching to the schrader valve was a bit of a learning experience and once I believed it was free and pressure was pushing the loose schrader valve to the end of the tool, I closed the ¼ turn valve and no freon was lost. The new schrader valve was much better quality than what I removed. It took me less than five minutes. Checked for leaks with soapy water, no bubbles, I'm a happy man. Recharged my AC and it's now freezing I'm my truck. I will look for a small box to keep all the vehicle AC accessories in. I would recommend doing the job yourself. When you have the right tools, that's more than ½ the battle.

The tool will not hold the schrader valve after unscrewing, it will just drop back down. Tried a dab of grease as others suggested but i still couldn't get it to stick.Additionally, while dry-testing, there is not enough clearance for the ball-valve to close - you have to back off the threading multiple turns.The two prongs broke after trying to get the valve out.Ultimately - this is a single use tool and it cannot perform its one function. Don't purchase it.

They must have taken feedback and improved the design, as this worked perfectly to remove my low side AC service valve (didnt try or need the high side).It's true that the shaft of the driver isnt perfectly centered inside the coupler, but it was easy enough to eyeball it and wiggle the driver onto the valve core. It also had a snug fit, which let me remove the valve without falling off, so no need to crimp down the prongs like others have noted.It took a total of 10 minutes to do this, taking my time and figuring out how to get the prongs to mate with the valve core but it was an easy job and can save you lots of money.Sadly, my valve core had leaked for some time before i caught it, so air got into the system, so it requires an evacuation anyway, but this is still a great tool to have in your collection.Also, it did come with a few valves and a separate valve driver to loosen or tighten the valves one you get it seated.

I recently used this on my car. I was able to remove both high and low side valves with these core removers and it did not leak. It appears to be a well made unit. However, there are two things that made this a pain to use.1. It didn't grab the cores firmly for either removable or insertion. There's a little fork on the end of these. In my experience with house AC unit core removers, that fork generally grqbs and engages the core tightly enough that you can hold it vertical and not have the valve core fall out of the forks. That was not the case with this. Having read the reviews and saw others having this issue, I used Vaseline and gummed the end of the removal rod and it did work ok. It just should not be necessary to do that. On the upside, the removal tool was able to engage the cores and turn them out without issue.2. When pulling a core out after unscrewing it from the fitting, you slide the removal tool (and the attached core) out past the cut off valve then close the valve behind the core and then unscrew and remove the core removal tool piece from the body of the valve and then put a new valve on the removal tool fork and screw it back down and then open the valve and insert it into the fitting. That's what should happen. This issue I ran into is there was not enough clearance for the cut off valve to close with a core attached to the tool. It's close but it doesn't quite clear. The only option was to slowly unscrew the removal tool back up its threads to get the valve to shut. We are talking a 1/16 of an inch so, you not having to run the cap all the way to the end of the threads, but it is daunting, particularly on the high side where there's enough pressure to launch that tool like a bullet. Nothing bad happened, no freon was lost, but it's poor design and should not be necessary. Had the valve body been a bit longer this would not be an issue. Could this just be a fluke of the cores themselves? Maybe, but I used the cores provided to replace the originals and ran into the same issue. It's possible since they hang so loose in the core remover fork they are just sagging down and not letting the valve close. Still a design issue as the remover fork should fit a bit tighter. So the bottom line is, the units work, they don't leak and are well made, but they could have thought about the design a bit more to make them safer and easier to use.

Did what I needed it to do. Had a Schrader valve leaking on my 96 suburban, it held pressure (to a point), which I was able to slow by tightening the cap well, but still wasnt a full chargeThis made it easy to remove and replace the schrader without popping open the system, it took me 4 tries to get the valve out1. As soon as you loosen the valve the pressure will push the plunger back, if you aren't prepared for this it feels like the stem came with it; it did not2. got the stem tool pushed back in and felt the valve stem spin, pulled the plunger out and removed it but did not get the valve stem3. tried again with no luck4. slightly bent in the tines on the tool and tested with a spare schrader, had a much better grip, pushed the tool back in and gave it a push and turn and was able to get the shrader valve in. Reassembly was quick and easy, I added a few oz of freeon to my system and it seems much happier now