Samsung 65-Inch Neo QLED 4K Smart TV with Mini LED Quantum HDR, Dolby Atmos - 2022 Model

The media could not be loaded. Great TV but if you have any defect you're going to need two units on hand to prove to Samsung that the device is indeed defective. I have a panel with a defective backlight and if I didn't have two models of the QN90B I wouldn't be able to prove to the technician that my backlight doesn't function properly.A lot of you will be looking at reviews from youtubers hoping that will be the picture quality that you receive but I can tell you my backlight is totally broken and technicians/ Samsung tech support were telling me that the unit is fine. It's only because I have a fully working Q90B with proper functioning backlight and took a bunch of video evidence between the two that I was able to demonstrate my defective unit. Either Samsung knows very little about how their TV's are supposed to function or they are actively trying to force defective units on customers.The Samsung QN90B has less black crush than the Samsung QN90A which means it doesn't use its brightness to destroy shadows and dark areas of a scene with high brightness levels causing things to look washed out. on the other hand the Samsung QN90A was better at controlling its bloom. It's kind of the tradeoff you make when selecting between these two TV's but I think the more controlled black crush on the Samsung QN90B is better for practical use since it's going to control the contrast and color better.My use case for the Samsung QN90B has ben primarily for a PC monitor and for streaming movies. I connected this TV to both a GTX 1080 and a RTX 3080. the samsung connects and recognizes VRR g-sync 4K 120FPS instantly with no failed handshakes in the month that i've used it. it's not G sync approved but it is very compatible with it VRR. Local dimming is not disabled when VRR is active this needed to be mentioned because a lot of other TV's I looked at do this. I did need to play around with the settings quite a bit too get a picture that was acceptable and had limited blooming for PC usage however so be prepared to calibrate for a while if PC monitor is going to be one of your intended use cases. this TV's brightness is primarily controlled through the combination of contrast and gamma and the backlight setting. Which might be a little weird to get used to if you're coming from a TV previously that just had a simple brightness settingThis TV supports automatically entering and leaving game mode on the fly when connected to a console. The picture algorithm completely different depending on what source you're connected to even telling the TV that it was connected to a PC versus a console had an effect on the algorithm that it uses so make sure you correctly label the input. input lag is around 5.9m on 120 fps and 10m at 60 fps.Streaming and watching movies was much simpler to set up and it's accurate to say that you can get set up with the TV looking relatively good in about 5 minutes. I originally got this TV to have something that was relatively close to an OLED imitation and side by side with gaming mode turned off without heavily scrutinizing the display for blooming it would be difficult to tell the difference. One of the main advantages to owning a Samsung QN90B is just how bright the TV can get it can overpower the sunlight from even the brightest living rooms which is the main downside that a lot of OLED's have they will look dull and drab unless you are viewing them in a very dark room.Overall it's a pretty good TV depending on what you're upgrading from. Try to remember when purchasing TV's it's all about compromises and tradeoffs and just pick a few aspects that are important to your use case because every TV Q-LED or O-LED will fail in some areas be it brightness or detailed black levels. The engineers when making a TV need to juggle all sorts of variables things can go wrong that you wouldn't necessarily expect. I purchased a 2018 P series Vizio that had an absolutely phenomenal picture however it would fail handshakes and reboot two or three times a day in a 12 hour period. Simple TV functionality is not a guarantee in the current market. My Samsung QN90B can be instantly powered up and powered down and never fails handshakes even with all the additional technology in it :)

I've been using a Sony Bravia for years (1080p/i) standard hi-def as a display, also using a Yamaha RX-V371 Audio Video receiver, which I loved and it served me faithfully since 2017...a refurbished unit I bought on faith for just 135$, along with a full set of Polk surrounds and I'm not sure who made the woofer. I decided to upgrade to Ultra High Def and so I began by replacing the heart of the system, the AVR, with a Yamaha RX-V4A. I had no desire to add more speakers to my setup for Dolby Atmos sound, so the RX-V4A fit my requirements just fine. I had such a good and reliable experience with the RX-V371 that I knew I wanted another Yamaha.Then I began to search for a TV. It came down to OLED vs QLED, plus, it had to fit on my TV table. So many sets have legs out at the ends of the screen that they would not fit and were automatically disregarded. Two things made me want to buy the QLED over the OLED: burn-in, and the brightness of the screen. High Dynamic Resolution uses brightness as one of its features, and I wanted a good HDR experience, plus the ratings on Consumer Reports had this in the recommended category. The smaller width base would also fit on my TV table with no problems. HDR10, HLG, and HDR10+ but no Dolby Vision! I did more reading and decided that since all TVs will have HDR10, this would be OK.I had a 4K Firestick already, and bought a Roku 4K unit and a Panasonic UHD blu ray player, along with Planet Earth II. Another fun fact was that Amazon Prime originals are almost all coded with HDR10+. Using calibration settings also supplied on the Consumer Reports site, the picture is simply spectacular. I am very pleased with this unit. The only problem I do have is that the HDMI-CEC will not turn on the TV from any peripheral devices. It will turn off, it will control volume from all controllers, but it will not turn on! Still working on that one and it is not that big of a deal. All my peripherals are connected to the AVR so I have only one 2.1 HDMI cable going out from the AVR arc port to the ARC port on the TV. I'm not bound to the Samsung confusion from their smart TV offerings because of this and usually press the power button on the RX-V4A and the TV button on my Tivo remote to get things going. I rarely use the Samsung remote and leave it solar-panel side up under a lamp in the room. In time I will experiment with the Samsung smart TV offerings and being a Tennis fan I have already found the T2 channel on the Samsung TV Plus. I still have a lot to learn about this TV but so far so good. I don't have any buyer's remorse. 1080/i programming just looks great, too, and UHD or not, the picture is so much better because the blacks are really black so everything looks better.