sanlida 100% Pure Carbon Hunting Arrows, Olympic-Grade 10 Spines Deflection (Unique), 0.001"/0.003"/0.006" Straightness, Buy 12 Get 12 Free/Buy 6 Get 6 Free, for Compound & Recurve Bows (12/24PCS)

I really had my doubts about these arrows due to their inexpensive price point and them not being a USA company. In the past ive used Easton arrows exclusively. For this review I did a side-by-side comparison between the Easton Bowhunter 6.5mm carbon arrows(340-spine) and these Sanlida Dragon 10 Carbon Arrows (300-Spine).Bottom line: the Shafts are really nice, the components are ok.Shafts: I was very impressed w/ these shafts. The vendor states that the are 0.001 tolerance for straightness. Although I can’t verify that w/ a measuring tool, when I roll them on my arrow balance jig, they spin very smoothly and I can’t see any wobble in the shaft. The Easton’s that I’m comparing these to have a stated 0.006 tolerance. The Sanlida shafts are all 32 inches in length and will need to be cut to your desired length based on your draw length.Vanes: These arrows come from the factory with blazer vanes pre-installed. These are one of the most prolific vanes in the industry and are a very reputable brand/model. The are installed w/ no offset. (basically a straight vane). As you can see in the pictures the vanes are also installed a bit further forward that the Easton arrows.Nocks: these arrows come pre-installed with pin knocks. (the Easton come pre-installed w/ Microlight nocks). I do prefer pin style nocks over the insertable type due to their advantage in protecting the arrow shafts from splitting if you ever have another arrow strike the back of a pre-fired arrow. After spending about 2 days of shooting with these arrows I think im going to swap out these factory pin nocks w/ some Easton Pin Style G Nocks. The factory nocks don’t grip my bowstring as tight and it seems like the “legs” of the nocks spread out a bit.Inserts: these arrows come w/ a separate bag of aluminum inserts and steel field points. They are not pre-installed because its expected that you will cut your arrows to your desired length before installing the inserts. These inserts are a bit loose in the shafts, you will defiantly need to glue them in (as they will fall out if you don’t). I cut about half my arrows and installed the inserts / points on them. Im still deciding if I want to keep this setup or if I can to upgrade the inserts to a heavier type.Performance: I was really impressed with the performance of these arrows. Right out of the box using all the included parts, I was able to achieve pretty nice groupings at 15 and 30 yards. (my back yard isn’t large enough to shoot further). I’m not a professional by any means, but these seemed to beat my mid-tiered Easton arrows. Once sure once I adjust my sights, I will be able to score way more consistent points than before.Overall: I glad I got these arrows, for the price point, they are unbeatable. For a few extra bucks I can easily upgrade these using some nicer components and then these will be my new favorite arrows.

These arrows are as advertised. Assembled four, they come with everything you see in the ad. Quality arrows, fletch, inserts and 100 grain field points. Shot just fine at 20 yards. They look great and all four weighted the same within two grains. Assembled two more and doubled checked the weight, all six within less than on grain at factory length (32"). The add states 6.7 grains per inch for the 400 spine. My arrows checked in at 6.9 grains per inch. Close enough for the folks we know.

Great arrows, though I feel 4 or 5 inch turkey feathers might be better, the construction of the arrows shaft it is exactly what is described. Their flight as is built with the 2” shield fletching is still spot on. And the buy 6 get 6 free and the buy 12 get 12 feee was a great deal. I did the 12.

So first thing I wanna put out there is I am a certified archery technician. I have been shooting archery since I was 4, tuning my own bow since I was 12, building my own arrows since I was 13, and helping to teach others to shoot and tune their vows since I was 16. I'm in my 40's. I have used many brands of arrows and used essentially every type of material used in arrows (wood, bamboo, aluminum, carbon, fiber glass, and carbon aluminum combined).These arrows are by FAR the best bang for your buck. I purchased the Dragon 10 with the .001 straightness with the red and black vanes and red decal logo. Mine came with the standard all plastic nock, not the pin nock. As many have said those nocks are not the best. They are WAY too tight on both of my bows, a 2018 PSE evolve 35 with ABB (America's Best Bow strings) string and cable set, 2017 PSE Supra target bow with 60x string and cable set. The 60x set has a slightly smaller diameter in the center service so nocks with smaller diameter throats tend to work a little better with the 60x set but the stock nocks on these dragon 10 arrows are way too tight even on the 60x set. So I swapped them out. I purchased some Black Eagle Standard nocks because they had good fit to my strings as well as being the best fit in the arrow shaft of these Dragon 10s in a 300 spine. I also picked up some pin nock bushings and some pin nocks to test out for my target set.I set 12 arrows up for my Evolve 34 since I use that for hunting as well as 3D, and set the other 12 up for the Supra for indoor targt.The straightness of these arrows are great. There's absolutely no wobble in any of these arrows at all. They also are extremely consistent in weight both in the shafts themselves and the inserts and field trips that came with them. The inserts and field tips has 0 deviation in weight. All 24 inserts were exactly 12 grains and all 24, field tips were exactly 100 grains. The shafts themselves only had a max .7 grain difference with the majority of them being 273.3 without the field tip and insert added to them. I had a few (like 3 or 4) at 272.8 and only 2 at 274.00. Now because I have 12 set up for target and 12 setup for hunting/3D those sets have different overall weights. On my hunting/3D set they are currently at a max weight of 410.5 on average with 2 being 410.7 and 1 being 410.3. that's because I added a 25 grain insert weight to the back of those arrows inserts. The target set are currently running at an average weight of 385.3 with 1 at 385.9, 3 being at 385.5 and 1 being at 386.00. so the weight consistency is definitely there and most of the weight differences is due to the insert glue, I'm using the blue Bohning Ferr-L-tite cool flex for carbon shafts so I can work on making any changes if I need to as I get these set for my bows.Now I have seen a few reviews calling these arrows too light. One review specifically called them to light because they were breaking easy. First these aren't really any lighter than say the Gold tip Velocity XT shafts in a 300 spine. The Gold tips Velocity XT 300s run at 8.8 gpi (grains per inch) +/- 2 grains between them and a .003 straightness in a matched set of 6 or 12. These Dragon 10s are running at about the same 8.8 gpi but at a much tighter tolerance being about a 1 grain difference and the .001 straightness between a matches set of 24 (they are available in a set of 12 but the 24 is the better deal). That puts these arrows at almost an equivalent of the Gold Tip Velocity Pro arrows that are 8.8 gpi, .001 straightness and max .5 grain difference between a matched set of 6 or 12. Both set of Gold Tips for a set of 12 pre fletched cost more than $100.00 (not including tax for you state or city) vs these at $99.99 (not included tax for your state or city). So these are definitely not "too light". These issues are most likely caused by the person using the incorrect spine for their setup. Either not using a stiff enough spine for their draw weight, or not using a stiff enough spine for the components used in the arrow causing to much flex. Either way I very highly doubt the shafts are the issue.When it comes to tuning them I haven't had any issues. I paper tune all my shafts. Most online (pro shop) paper tubing guides will tell you to paper tune at 4-6 from the bow. I don't do that. If you tube there your arrow is already starting to correct its flight and any issues you might have may still be present just minimized. I set the paper tuning system up so that my arrow tip is about 1 inch from it. The. I correct any tearing issues I have at that distance. THEN I set the paper tuning system up at 20 yards. I do this because there can be some over compensation in the initial paper tune phase and if so I want to correct that. Once my paper tune is the same at both 1" from the end of the arrow and 20 yards I leave the rest and nocking points where it is and then just sight in the bow. Tuning these arrows has been a breeze. They paper tuned perfectly for their intended set ups.I will be making some minor changes to the arrow builds soon on both sets. They are getting their blazer vanes removed and once the shafts are cleaned they will get a custom arrow wrap I designed added to them and then I will fletch them with the gateway feathers 2" Rayzr fletchings. I like using an actual feather fletching vs a plastic/vinyl vane because wile I might lose a tiny bit of speed I get better overall flight. And yes while they are paper tuned I still prefer feathers over plastic lol.Overall I can't say anything bad about these arrows. I accidentally hit one with another arrow when shooting 5 spot the other day. I forgot what spot I was on and because of the color of bothe the nocks and fletchings I couldn't see my shot placement. I shot at the same spot twice and hit the nock on the 1 arrow. Both the nock and shaft were fine on the arrow I hit. The insert did come out on the arrow that hit the 1st arrow but that was because of the insert glue used. Hitting the other arrow cause the insert to break loose from not having enough glue on it so I lost that in my clubs target wall. I will get it back in August when we replace the target wall so no loss there lol.Now I haven't had these arrows long so I can't fully speak to their longevity. But with what I am seeing now I can't think that they will have any issues lasting if properly taken care of. The only thing that will need to be done is replacing the nocks when you get these. I have seen some peoysay that if you get the ones that have the pin nocks sent you (as they send the nock types randomly) you can't remove them since they are glued in. While they are glued in they can most definitely be removed. Take a lot of water and boil the water. Take the arrow shaft and CAREFULLY put it into the boiling water and with a pair of pliers periodically check to see if the pin nock bushing will start to come out. Do NOT force it. Dip let set for about 45 seconds to a minute and check. If the bushing isn't ready dip again and repeat the process. Just make sure you are careful when removing the pin knock bushings because that carbon can get flexible and you could warp/bend the end of the shaft on the nock end. The insert needs to be pulled straight out, no twisting ore bending to get it to come out faster. Once you have the bushing out it's a good idea to clean the inside of the shaft so use a NEW wire brush cleaning jag for a .270 on the end of a short gun cleaning rod (pistol ones work best) and run the in and out of the shaft while spinning the arrow between your fingers. That will help to remove the vast majority of glue that was left in the shaft. The use a q-tip dipped in some acetone to finish cleaning out the shaft.These arrows are well worth the money. Just make sure you check their spine chart and get the proper spine for your particular setup.

Knocks are a little weak for my personal preference, I swap all them out with lighted knocks anyway... the arrows them self are simply amazing.... starting shooting them within the hour of receiving them after cutting the arrows and gluing the inserts in. Shoot almost just as good as any arrow thats 5 times the price.