HC5000T Electronic Sewage Pump Switch, 12ft Cord - No Pit Entry, Smart Alarm System Water Sensor for Sump Pump - Compatible with All Pumps & Pit Sizes - Prevents Flooding in Basements, Lift Stations

Basement sewage sumps need to get pumped out automatically when they fill. In most installations, that requires that a float rises and flips upright to turn on a pump. In my home this float would get fouled, fail to rise and cause basement sewage flooding once or twice a year. This product solved the problem. It senses sump filling electronically, not mechanically. Better yet, product support help is instantly available by phone. They solved a messy problem for me today by providing a simple and accessible solution. Many thanks!

We have a sump pit that was recently covered and sealed for RADON mitigation. The cover is well sealed with thick silicone. My sump pump (14 years old) has a built in float switch that, now that the pit is covered and sealed, decided to malfunction. I did not want to risk having to break all that silicone sealant to replace the units float switch, so I opted for this switch with the moisture probe. Wow! Easy installation! I used a 3/4 drill bit to make the opening in the cover (the grommet covered the hole nicely). Lowered the sensor in. Plugged the pump power into the unit and plugged it into the outlet. There was a little water in the bottom of the pit (we had a week of heavy rain here; that was what was left). Lowered the sensor into the water. I hear the click, the pump kicked on. 10 seconds was amble time to drain down the pit. It clicked off and... DONE! Raised the sensor up a few inches above where it was and locked it down. Applied some silicone sealant around the grommet (don't want any RADON leaking up, even through the tiniest of holes). Easy peasy! Took me longer to find a drill bit than to install it! Now I have peace of mind. UPDATE: We also have a septic sump pit in the basement bathroom. The float died on it - annoying since the pump assembly was 2 months out of warranty. Ordered a second Hydrocheck switch; it arrived this morning and took me all of 2 minutes to install it! The septic pit cover already had a grommet in place! Got it installed, ran water to test the activation mechanism. Adjusted the depth of the sensor in the pit so the 10 seconds would be more than adequate and there we go! Saved myself a $500 plumbing bill + parts! Thank you!

Sewage pump started running constantly after a power failure. I unplugged it, dreading having to open the tank and replace the float switch. Then I found this electronic switch that does not require opening the tank. It is twice as expensive as a normal float switch. BUT, since I don't have to open the tank it's well worth the extra dollars. I had to purchase a 5/8" drill bit to drill a hole in the tank cover. I selected a location that seemed to be away from the pipes and wires that go down into the tank. Then I drilled a 1/8 " hole and pushed a straightened coat hanger wire down into the tank to get an idea how deep the tank was. I measured about halfway down the tank and pulled that much wire through the supplied grommet. I then drilled the 5/8 hole and placed the sensor into the hole and tested it. Worked perfectly the first time. Then I secured the wire to a pipe with the supplied wire tire. I put some silicone around the grommet and wire for extra sealing. Done - 15 minutes... no opening the tank! I adjusted the pump-off timer to 6 seconds and tested it a few more times. It's been working perfectly for 2 days. Hopefully, I will not need to touch this again. If it lasts a few years, it will be easy to replace. From my experience, a good sewage pump rarely fails. It's the float switch that fails. So, if this is reliable, I may never need to open that tank again. I will update this post later if it fails or not. 60-day update: The switch has been installed and in use for 60 days now. It is working flawlessly. We have had one power outage that lasted about 3 hours. Once the power returned, the switch continued to work as before without any attention. I am extremely happy with this purchase. 120-day update: Still working perfectly.

I have a Zoeller 1/2 HP sewage pump that works perfectly except for the float switch. The float didn't apply enough force to reliably actuate the switch causing an overflow. I installed a new float and switch but that did not solve the problem for long. I think the switch boot gets stiff with age and shaft gets gunked up, restricting movement. I was on the verge of ordering a new pump ($450 yikes!) when I saw this device. It has no moving parts and only the very tip of the probe contacts water. When it does, the pump turns on for time preset by the user. It's not only more reliable but it's easy to adjust so that it turns on at a optimal depth, greatly reducing cycling compared to the float setup. Installation was easy. I removed the float and made sure the old switch was on permanently. I plugged this unit into the wall and the pump cord into it. I then lowered the sensor to the right depth and secured it. It comes with a grommet if you need to drill a new hole in the pump cover. Highly recommended.

Easy to install. Has worked well so far. Grommet I got needed 5/8 drill hole. I measured the grommet with a caliper before drilling. Have only watched it run 1/2 dozen times, about 2 weeks, and so far so good. See many posts where people think switches burn out pumps prematurely cause they don’t let enough electrical current thru. Hope that’s not the case with this switch. Wish manufacturers would address this subject as changing sewage pumps is not a fun or inexpensive job.

This is my second purchase of this switch. We have two sump pumps, the first switch worked so well, we bought another one for the other pump. One caution, when installing it on a sewage ejection pump, be sure to locate the probe, where the toilet discharge will NOT hit it. Otherwise it will cycle the pump with each flush.

Broke in 1 day. Kept detecting water when no water was on it. Sump was empty and it was burning out my pump for no reason.

Made the mistake of previously ordering an HC6000 2 probe switch, which would malfunction during water softener cycles. This HC5000, however, is a single probe design, that uses programable run-duration. Its designed to work with black water, so it does not have the brine sensitivity that the 6000 model had. To mount the hc5000 I used a 6" piece of 1" diameter pvc, which I cross drilled for zip ties. I ran the probe through the inside of the 1" pipe, leaving the metal tip exposed at the bottom, also being mindful of the desired high water level (the tip of the probe is your high water level - the level at which the switch will close) I then ziptied the 1" pipe containing the probe, threading the tie through the cross drilled holes, to the ejector pump discharge pipe ( | vertical orientation of course). I then tested, and was on my way. A rock solid setup that when combined with a decent ejector pump should offer years of reliable service.

Does what it’s made for and serves the purpose it was bought for.

Installation is easy when you have the correct size drill bit. We have the sensor about 8 to 10 inches from the lid. The old float switch was letter the level get too high. Thinking of increasing the run time by a few seconds.

This product works flawlessly had to put a ground wire in because I have a plastic sink, but everything worked amazing thing works solid every time

Works well, but a bit big for weather cover outlet when plugging in, It almost needs a plug in extension.