Polaroid HD Slide Duplicator With Macro Lens Capabilty For The Nikon 1 J1, J2, J3, V1, V2, V3, S1, D40, D40x, D50, D60, D70, D80, D90, D100, D200, D300, D3, D3S, D700, D3000, D5000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D7000, D5100, D4, D4s, D800, D800E, D600, D610, D7100, D5200, D5300 Digital SLR Cameras

DESIGN> The Polaroid Slide Duplicator is designed to work with an 40-60mm zoom lens (in M4/3 format, = 60-90mm in APS-C format [most DSLRs], =80-120mm in 35mm film format) or equivalent, because there is no way to adjust the distance between the lens and the subject (i.e., the slide you are copying). You can only do so by changing the focal length, which means you must have a zoom lens.> Ideally, the image will correspond to a 35mm slide at about 50mm (in M4/3 format, =75mm in APS-C format, =100mm in 35mm format).> That means that it is probably IMPOSSIBLE to make good copies of slides, using the Polaroid Slide Duplicator AS DESIGNED.>> Zooms are not as sharp as prime lenses. The performance of most zooms adapted to 1:1 photography is miserable.>> The barrels of many zooms rotate as you focus, which is causes the slide stage to rotate, making the Polaroid Slide Duplicator virtually unusable.> However, with the right combination of equipment and luck, it is possible to make adequate copies with a zoom lens, very good copies with a prime lens (meaning a non-zoom), and excellent copies with a macro lens.WHATS INCLUDEDIn addition to the slide stage:> The large bulge on the end of the Polaroid Slide Duplicator tube is a removable 52mm-thread-diameter closeup lens (probably +10 diopter), NOT RECOMMENDED.> A 52mm rear screw in cap.> A 52mm-58mm "filter" adapter, which is useful only if your lens takes 58mm "accessories" (i.e., filters, lenshoods, and lenscaps).WHAT ELSE YOU'LL NEED> Unless you have a macro lens, to get your lens to focus down to the size of a 35mm slide you'll need extension tubes and/or screw-in closeup lenses, for example  HOYA 52mm Close up Filter Set +1,+2, +4 , Close-Up Set For all 52MM Front thread lenses . If your lens has a aperture ring, you can use the cheapest type extension tubes, for example  Macro Extension Tube Ring Micro 4/3 M4/3 EP3 GF1 E-PL1 GF2 G1 EPM1 G3 Mount Camera . If your lens does not have an aperture ring, you'll need more expensive "auto" extension tubes. If you are adapting an old camera lens with a different mount than your camera, you can use the extension tubes for that system.> If you use a lens with a different mount (such a 50mm f2 lens from an old film camera, or a macro lens with a different mount), you'll need a mount adapter. If your lens has a aperture ring, you can use the cheapest type adapters, for example:  PK-M4/3 Lens Mount Adapter Ring Pentax PK Lens to MICRO 4/3 Body E-PM2 EM5 EPL5 GF5 GF3 . If your lens does not have an aperture ring, you'll need a more expensive adapter, for example:  Fotodiox 10-New -PK-M43 Lens Mount Adapter with Aperture Dial, Digital Pentax AF Lens to MFT Micro 4/3 System Camera Mount Adapter .> Unless the filter thread of your lens is 52mm, you'll need a "step-up" "filter" adapter corresponding to the filter thread of your lens. For example: if your lens takes 49mm "accessories", then you need a 49-52mm step-up adapter; if your lens takes 55mm "accessories", then you need a 55-52mm step-down adapter.> If you use a prime lens (i.e., a non-zoom), you may need extension rings (do not confuse with extension tubes), to adjust the distance between the lens and the subject (i.e., the slide you are copying), which is essential in order to focus on your slide.>> Cheap non-auto extension tube sets, for example [ASIN:B00C2P3JPE Macro Extension Tube Ring Micro 4/3 M4/3 EP3 GF1 E-PL1 GF2 G1 EPM1 G3 Mount Camera]] consists of three 52mm extension rings in 7, 14, and 28mm lengths, and male/female mount adapters. The adapters screwed together make a short extension tube (which may fill your need for an extension tube), which can be expanded with the rings, but you can also use the rings between your lens and the Slide Duplicator. The extension rings can also be purchased separately:   consists of three 52mm extension rings in 7, 14, and 28mm lengths, and male/female mount adapters. The adapters screwed together make a short extension tube (which may fill your need for an extension tube), which can be expanded with the rings, but you can also use the rings between your lens and the Slide Duplicator. The extension rings can also be purchased separately:  Photo Plus 52mm Diameter Extension Ring / Spacer 7mm long : Photo Plus 52mm Diameter Extension Tube / 14mm long : Photo Plus 52mm Diameter Extension Tube / 28mm long .>> 52mm diameter filters with the glass removed, make excellent, cheaper, and better ~5mm-lenth extension rings--because the smaller increments give you more options. There is a tool for taking out the glass:  52mm 52 Lens Repair Silicone Rubber Tool / Filter Wrench Remove Front Retaining Ring Scratch Free! . If you don't have old filters, you can buy 5 for $11  XCSOURCE® 52mm Color Filter Blue Yellow Orange Red Green + Lens Cap + 6 slot Case for Nikon D7100 D7000 D5200 D5100 D3200 D3100 D3000 D90 D4 D3X D800 D700 D600 D300S D300 D7100 D7000 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3200 D3100 D3000 D90 D80 D70 D60 D50 D40 LF68 >> A  Fotasy MH49 Metal Screw-In Lens Hood and Cleaning Cloth for Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro Lens  can be used as both a 46-52mm adapter AND a 1 1/4" extension.USE WITH A ZOOM LENS> It is essential that the barrel of your zoom does not rotate when you zoom or focus.> If you have a choice of zoom lenses, short (but covering the 40-60mm range (in M4/3 format, = 60-90mm in APS-C format, =80-120 in 35mm format) is better than long, and a narrow range is probably better than a wide range. E.g. 25-75mm is better than 14-100mm.EXAMPLE 1: My 14-42mm Lumix PZ (pancake zoom lens) does not revolve, and therefore is potentially adequate, albeit a little short at maximum zoom. With a 10mmm extension tube, a 37-52mm "filter" adapter, and my lens at 42mm (=84mm in 35mm format), I can fill about 80% of the camera frame (with the image of a 35mm slide in focus). At f11, the center is sharp but the edges of the frame are very "soft". Note that the "kit" 14-42mm lens is a different lens, and may or may work better or worse. A slightly longer zoom would be better, but the quality of the image would probably be as poor or worse.USE WITH A "PRIME LENS" (meaning a non-zoom)> Prime lenses produce far superior results when adapted for closeup work than zooms--but the results would not be as good as a macro-lens.> You can use a prime meant for your system (50mm for M4/3 format camera, or 75mm for APS-C format cameras), but those focal lengths are not common, and you should not buy such a lens for this purpose.> As long as the lens elements are clear (no fungus or haze) and you can manually adjust the aperture, an old 50mm lens from an old 35mm film camera with a cheap non-auto adapter would probably work well on a M4/3 format camera. For this purpose, (all other things being equal) slower lenses are probably better for this purpose than faster lenses, i.e., an f2.8 is probably better than an f1.2.> With your camera adjusted so that the image of your slide approximately fills your camera frame with the image in focus:>>> If more than the slide image fills your camera frame (part of the paper holder is in your camera frame), you can crop the image later using graphics software (not included), although you'll be loosing pixels (resolution).>>> If not all of he slide image fits into your camera frame, you can add extension rings until it does.USE WITH A MACRO LENS> A good macro-lens is the only way to make good quality copies of slides. For example: a Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm/F2.8 (=90mm in 35mm format) macro lens, would probably work well.EXAMPLE 2: With a Pentax K to M4/3 adapter (see above), a 50mm f4 Pentax Macro lens (= 100mm in M4/3 format), a 49-52mm "filter" adapter, and about 20mm of additional 52mm diameter extension rings, the camera image is almost exactly filled and in focus (with the image of a 35mm slide. It looks like this will be an ideal setup, when I acquire the exact set of extension rings. A screw-in Pentax 50mm macro (or a macro of a different brand) would be just as good, with the appropriate adapter.> With Lumix cameras it is necessary to set the camera to operate "without a lens": Menu > Custom settings ("C" with a wrench) > Shoot w/o lens > on.> With Lumix cameras (and others if you have this option), set the aspect ratio to 2:3, which corresponds to the shape of 35mm slide images.OPERATION OF THE POLAROID SLIDE DUPLICATOR> The slide stage rotates 360 degrees, and can be locked in place.> The slide stage slides up and down, and even completely off, but doesn't hold in place well.>>> You can probably add thin strips of tape (such as Blue Painter's tape which is easy removable) to increase the friction.> The slide-holder slides from side-to-side.> With these three movements you can crop parts of a slide, etc.> However, with all these movements, simply copying a whole slide is far more difficult than it should be. You have to orient each slide, one at a time. I'd be tempted to tape the stage in place (with double-sided foamy tape), because I don't want to crop slides, or mess with fancy effects---I just want to copy them. Besides, using a macro-lens (instead of a zoom), I don't have the option to crop anyway.> Rather than the included closeup lens (NOT recommended), you can get better results with extension tubes and/or weaker closeup lens. I suggest a set of screw-in closeup lenses (+1, +2, and +3 or +4 diopter. Use the weakest closeup lens which works with your lens. For best results, use one closeup lens at a time--do not stack them.> Set your lens at f11 or f16. Keep the camera and adapter still (best on a tripod with a remote shutter cable).> The white diffuser is protected with clear plastic which you need to peel off, but after doing so, protect the diffuser from scratches etc.> Do not aim a light source at the slide copier (that will accentuate dust and flaws in the diffuser). Instead illuminate a square of white cardboard, and aim the slide copier at the cardboard. A halogen desk lamp would be ideal.COMMENT ON EQUIVALENT FOCAL LENGTHS> It is easy to get confused. The focal length is always the same. A 50mm lens (for example) is a 50mm lens regardless of the format of the camera. What can be different is the size of the sensor in your camera. The sensor in an 4/3 format camera is ½ the size of 35mm format. The sensor in an APS-C camera is ¾ the size of 35mm format. I include 35mm "equivalents", because that is the standard you can use to compare other formats.OTHER OPTIONS> The Opteka HD2 slide duplicators appear have all of the same problems and limitations, with one exception:>> The slide stage of the Opteka apparently does not move around (a good thing).>> The diffuser of the Opteka is closer to the slide, increasing the probablilty that defects, dust, etc on the diffuser will be in focus and appear on the image.> Thus, it is a toss-up.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

I bought this item because there were many more positive comments then negative ones. It took a number of tests to find a lens that worked with it. It needs more zooming capability. The slide does not fill the screen fully. (Needs editing to eliminate the edges of the slide frame opening).The slide holder enclosed has no positive click stops or indents so each slide needs adjusting up or down and right or left.This unit will do most of the required job, but it will be a long slow task.One improvement I intend to make is to put on a thin extension ring (12mm) on the 18 - 55 mm zoom lens that came with the Nikon D3200.

Its ok, not as good as I had hoped