Pro Switch 115Vac (S11520-A-NA)

Works exactly as advertised. I have the sensor attached to the power cable that runs from the CNC controller to the spindle on my Shapeoko 5 Pro 4'x4' router. A couple seconds after the CAM software sends the "turn on spindle" command, the unit activates and powers up my dust collection system. The delay is nice because it means I don't have two high power draw devices powering up simultaneously even though the router and dust collection are on separate circuits. Once the job finishes, the dust collection is turned off. It just plain works.

There are a few ways to go if you decide you want to add a remote start system to tools in your shop. The first place most people start is with dust collection. There's an ultra cheap method that (knowing some electrical strain would occur) I didn't feel comfortable with, even at 1/4 of the price. And then there's a "tried and tested" product that is certainly a good way to go, and you'll likely find a lot of the forums will make this suggestion, as well.After some further digging, I decided to choose this product -- primarily because I liked the idea of investing in an expandable system. For a very small premium, this product functions exactly the same as the tried and true product, but iVac, unlike the other company, is continually dumping profit into R&D -- developing extensions off of this unit that allow you to truly automate your shop. Be it opening a blast gate and automatically starting the DC, power sensors that sit on a tool's power cord and automatically start the DC when a current is detected, or, a simple on/off remote accessory.The accessories are far from cheap (and you unfortunately have to buy the remote separately), but the potential of the ecosystem is very high, and the manufacturing quality of these units is higher than the competition.The easiest way to decide if the iVac is the correct choice for you is to ask yourself "Will I regret buying a single, un-expandable automation path? Or would I rather pay a small premium and give myself options down the road?".

What a piece of junkIt works when it wants toWish I just put the vacuum on a switch for the amount of times I have to unplug the dam thing

It really works, but it is best if only one is used around nearby. If these are installed in contiguous rooms the signals can interfere.

Older reviews talked about their units coming with 9amp max stickers on them, so I grumbled and ordered a contactor kit too... but mine showed up clearly labeled for 1.5hp (which is what I --and probably you-- have for dust collection) so I'll return the unopened $85 contactor that I don't need. I'm happy

I love the iVac Pro switch and system. It turns my dust collector on when i need it and off when i don't. It saves on my power costs and keeps my shop cleaner.The poor reviews are because the writers don't understand how the iVac system should be set up and why the switches are limited. Part of the problem is the description on Amazon and most web sites doesn't explain how to correctly use the iVac Pro Switch. The 115 volt 20 amp switch directly supports a 1 hp dust collector. The 220 volt 20 amp switch directly supports a 2 hp dust collector -- this is on the side of the box and on iVas'c web site. The problem is the starting surge for induction motors is 3 to 6 times their operating current draw. E.g my 1 1/2 hp dust collector draws 14 amps running but can momentarily draw 42 to 84 amps starting up which is not a problem except for the switch itself.The iVac site shows how to set the iVac Pro Switches controlling the iVac Contractor (also sold by Amazon) for dust collectors with higher horsepowers than supported by the switches alone. See the information at the following web site on how to properly set up the iVac Pro switches and system. The dust collector information is at the bottom of the page. http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action?itemid=66

I bought this for my dust collector. I added the remote control. Now I can hit the button and get the dust collector started. I used to skip that if it was just one cut. Now there is no need. When I turn it off it waits 7 seconds to make sure that all the dust is out of the line.

Even though the description says "115V - 20Amp", this is not a 20 Amp capable switch.The maximum load it can take is only 9 Amps, which makes it unusable."20 Amps" here seems to refer to the fact that the wall power plug is a NEMA 20 Amp plug, which does not work in a regular wall socket.Why they use a 20 Amp non standard plug, to only support 9 Amp is a mystery that can be explained either by the fact that they have no idea what they're doing, or that they intended to support 20 Amps, but poorly designed the switch and it burns past 9 Amp (The 9 Amp warning is on a sticker that's been added on the socket - looks like an afterthought - I'll try to upload a photo).