Brownells Aluma-Hyde II Epoxy Based Firearms Finish (O.D. Green)

I've first used aluma hyde in the 2000's. It is a good, durable epoxy based coating with a variety of color options. The key(s) is surface prep and shaking the life out of the can, and keep shaking(mixing) it, keep the spray nozzle clean and clear. Carb cleaner is your friend for that. Let it cure for a couple weeks in a warm place. then use items. CeraCoat and AlumaHyde are 2 different coatings, if you understand this, you won't be disappointed with AlumaHyde, which is a user friendly all-in-one coating option vs. CeraCoat

The best. Been using for over ten years. When you use decent nozzles and clean the outlet after use this lasts for multiple applications. Shake well and warm the can to 70-90 degrees to prevent separation and clogging. I use this to coat wood, aluminum, steel, and polymers. With proper surface preparation and three very light coats, this stuff is amazingly durable. I have high wear items Cerakoted and I coat everything else with Aluma-Hyde II. My projects look 100% professional. I use the bake cure method for both metals and polymers. (that can handle 190-200 deg). I have found this coating to be pretty damn tough chip and scratch resistant when applied properly. surface prep and coating method is critical. I have a item professionally cerakoted that has not held up as well as a properly coated aluma-hyde II item. You do not need to sand or bead blast parts, you can coat after degreasing. Really phenomenal stuff. I have found this to be harder than the original Duracoat. Have not compared to new generation Dura- and Cera but it's rugged and affordable enough to use as a working coating on virtually any tool that you need coated. Like Cera and Dura, I do not use on internal high tolerance parts without masking critical bearing surfaces. Holds up to heat, moisture, and holds oils and lubes well. Scuffs and scratches can be buffed with some oil. I do not get cracking due to my light spray method with a bake cure. I have blasted and Cera coated parts to achieve higher abrasion resistance but this is the best DIY coat I have found that does not involved blasting.

Used this to coat a 300blk build. I scuffed all paint surfaces with red scotch bright pad, hit it with acetone to clean any leftover fibers or oil residue. Did several light coats for even coverage. Baked at recommended temp and time and it looks great.

Worth the money. Very tough. Very difficult to remove. Paint thinner won't remove it. Gun powder solvent has no effect on it. Needed to remove over spray from some parts and the only thing that worked was non chlorinated brake cleaner sprayed onto a rag/Q-Tip/swab. Will buy again. Planning on buying black for scratches and other touch ups on some ARs. Would be awesome if Brownells also sold it in small bottles similar to Testors so it could be used to touch up scratches/dings on AR handguards and etc so the entire part doesn’t have to be removed and painted.

This paint works great. I ordered 3 cans of different colors and had good success with the painting of two firearms. I lightly sprayed the 1st coat, waiting 20-30 minutes and sprayed again. In between this process I baked the parts on a metal screen. I actually ended up with great results.I did run into the usual problem with these cans as the nozzles get clogged. I was able to slow that process down by soaking the nozzles in paint thinner however it was not a permanent solution. I bought the pack of extra nozzles from Brownells when they came back in stock. That swap is a very simple process. I would suggest having 3 spare nozzles per can just in case. It should just come with a lot for that.Would give it a 5 star review however the nozzles take a star away.

This is much stronger than regular spray paint. I bead blasted and sprayed stainless parts and left in the sun daily for a week. It won't wipe off even with acetone, so you can't ask for much more from a spray can product.

I'm on my 3rd can! It's like Franks Red Hot, I put that ish on everything!12 ga, six shooter, knife scales, hatchets, magazines, handles, all kinds of stuff.Works great over FRN / Grivory / plastic knife scales and even better with G10. Not the best on Micarta because of the base scale material, but I've tried it and it stuck around for a few weeks.Biggest suggestion is to Follow the Instructions. I had zero luck with the forced cure procedure, but I'm a newb and I know my limitations!Will definitely buy again!

This product works! It's not as simple though to get a great result like in the instructions though.Be sure to sand the item with at least 200gr sandpaper completely and degrease. Be sure to carefuly tape all lines and areas you don't want to paint and then degrease again!Shake thoroughly and spray a piece of card border or something first to get it flowing as there will be some globs coming out initially and they can ruin your work. Finally use THIN coates as thicker coates come out shiny and can bubble