Design Engineering Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap with Lava Rock Technology - 4" x 100' - Heat Wrap for Exhaust Pipes, Pliable Exhaust Wrap Tape, Withstands 1800°F Direct Heat & 2500°F Intermittent Heat

DEI is the only brand i use. Excellent quality and reduces the amount of heat substantially. Make sure to get the silicone spray and you con also put a layer of ceramic wool underneath if you're feeling froggy. Super easy to install and works as expected. This doesn't come with an adhesive and reduces noise by a small percentage.

The media could not be loaded. Great product, it looks great on the exhaust

Hi FolksGreg Muncer here with Advanced Fleet Specialists of 37 years.I have a 1988 Chevy Caprice that is in great shape.The exhaust pipes and muffler needed 6 repairs.I search this product down;not wanting to replace the exhaust system.I followed every direction and added these things.1) I scrubbed an area around the repairs about a third away around the pipes,with a stainless steel wire toothbrush, and with Clorox Clean Up (spray) anda spray water bottle to thoroughly rinse the area after the wire brush and soapy bleach scrubbing.Then I quickly wipe the area mostly dry with a paper towel so it did not flash rust much.2) I tape measured the repair area to make a patch about an inch longer than the ends of the repair area.3) I bought off Amazon here, one roll of " DEI 010129 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15' " for $14.95.This 2 inch wide exhaust wrap was a dog's great fetch, ("a cat's meow" ha ha),I took the Muffler Putty " Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty - 4 oz. " , available here on Amazon also,and needed it (which mixes it just prior to use), like the directions said.I screeded the packet to the edge where you cut the packet open, then I cut only about 1/3 the end off,to be able to squeeze out about a 1 inch wide squeeze out of the packet.I squeezed the putty onto the measured and cut exhaust wrap mention above.I squeezed the putty onto the middle of the 2 inch wide tape all along its length.I then took a stiff piece off plastic, for a putty knife andsmoothed the putty over the tape, covering every edge.(I had laid the tape on a cardboard box to dispose of the mess made on a workable disposable surface)So, spread the putty thoroughly a little less than 1/4 inch thick on one side of the tape.4) With the tape spread with putty, I took my water spray bottle and wetted the repair area again.This time I only dried it very lightly, leaving it wet but not dripping.I dabbed up the drips with a paper towel.I then place the putty side of the tape against the wire brushed and wetted repair area;where the puttied tape patch, hung over the repair area about an inch on each end.I used disposable latex gloves and so with these gloves on,I smoothed the outty all over the tape which brought some of the extra putty to the edges of the tape.While smoothing the tape out, I had some putty come through the tape that is a little pores.(Careful to leave the center of the tape humped up a bit on its center length,so as to leave a good thickness of putty over the holes in the pipe or muffler).Extra putty from the packets can also be used over the outside of the tape to seal up the pores tape.Smoothing over the complete tape patch and its edges with putty makes a smooth cast like product,just like a cast use for a persons broken arm, except this cast is good for extremely high heat.5) Once you get your patch smoothed out on the repair area,I set a 1500 watt (small heater withing an inch of the surface of the wet patch.I found that the patch had to stay as hot as this heater would make it, for at least an hour or longer is better.(I had one place that I could not get the heat close enough to make the pipe hot for an hour and,when I drove the car (without giving it much gas) the patch had not sufficiently hardened andthe path lift off one end and the exhaust was escaping out the repair hole again)>Point is make sure you heat the patch good for at least about an hour.I found the heater made the patch and pipe hot enough that you could still touch it without burning your hand but,probably you could not leave your hand on the hot patch more than a few seconds without burning your hand.This should give you a good idea as to how hot to make the patch.It could even be a little hotter than this, although I like a slower curing process so,that it does not bubble up from too quick of hot heat causing the putty to boil before it hardens.Keep in mind that this tape over the putty slowes down the drying process andso the heater and the whole hour heating the patch seems to become absolutely needed.In summary this is a fantastic product and the tape really helps to bridge the gaps and maintain a real good consistent thickness of the repair.I used 3 packets out of the 4 packets that I bought.(Each of these purchase packs contained 2 packets inside each pack, soI used 6 little packets altogether.)Each tape patch average about 8 inches long and was applied long ways onto the pipe.I did not wrap the tape patch around the pipe except for one of the repairs that required it.The 2 inch wide tape came in a 15 foot roll and I used a little less than 5 feet of it.I paid $3.40 a pack and used 3 packs so I used about $10 bucks of putty and $5 bucks worth of the tape; soI used $15 dollars of product to make 6 beautiful patches. (I wasted some, when I did not let the one patch heat up hot enough and long enough).Use a heater, wire brush the area and get any greese off the repair area with a soapy bleach. Rinse it well with water (the putty is water based),pre wet the repair area just before applying the wet patch.My exhaust system was strong before I began and was being held firmly by all connections and exhaust hangers, but every pipe, muffler and resonator require a sizable patch and so it this $15 bucks worth of muffler putty and 2 inch wide tape save me the best part of $1,000. I feel confident I will not have to replace this exhaust system for another few years. Thank You Amazon, Permatex and Design Engineering; maker's of the 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15'.Happy Motoring, Sincerely Greg (I still spent 6 hours repairing the 6 areas) but just paid $15 bucks.Both these products, the putty and the tape were good up to temperatures of 2,000 degrees, oh yea.

Seems to be holding up and be a quality product

This wrap worked great wrapping my new turbo up-pipes reducing heat radiated into the cab.It worked great wrapping the hot side of the intercooler as the factory “burrito” wrap was old torn and wrinkly, absolutely ugly. Guys on the truck forum loved them.I sealed them with clear ceramic paint which required curing and secured them with stainless steel metal zip ties I also got on Amazon. “Tefitina Direct” 11.8”

Absolutely a must on any exhaust pipe, especially on motorcycles. Was teaching my Lady how to ride, she got bit 1 time by the hot pipe, we installed this, fixed the hazard. Now you can briefly touch the exhaust without getting any burn at all. Even after a 30 min ride, no more risk of 3rd degree burns on skin. Stays black and looks fantastic.

Looks good and arrived fast, definitely recommend this product for anyone looking to get a good exhaust wrap.

The first thing I noticed when I opened the package is how cool this stuff looks. It looks sort of like carbon fiber. In reality it's made of very thin strands of metal bundled in threads and then woven together.[Update: I tested the temps with an infrared thermometer and I'm not extremely impressed. Even with two layers of the DEI wrap, the temps ranged from 350-500F on the wrap itself. I can't say how this compared to before I wrapped it though since I didn't take the temps. But I expected it to be lower.]The downside is that it seems to fray if it gets caught on anything. The part I was wrapping was in a really cramped area so after many feet of wrapping some parts started to fray, particularly the ends and sides, but if a thread in the middle gets caught it will pull out in a loop and distort the area around it, and you can't fix it. If you've got room and you're careful you could probably avoid the problem by being careful not to let it catch on anything or move it around too much so it rubs on itself or other stuff.In my opinion this product could really be improved by just sealing the ends and possibly the sides. It comes with the threads on the ends cut so they're just hanging there waiting to unravel. The sides are interwoven though so it's not as big of a problem.Another slightly less serious problem is that, although it's not fiberglass, it still has some of the same irritating effects. From all the microscopic strands fraying you find yourself itching certain spots a lot presumably from the them acting like glass strands and sticking into your skin. I can't say how safe it is to potentially breath these strands either, but since they're metal I'd assume they wouldn't be as airborne as fiberglass, asbestos, etc.