Meguiar's DA 6” Microfiber Cutting Disc, Microfiber Pads Compatible with a DA Polisher for Car Detailing, That Removes Moderate Scratches, Swirls, and Paint Defects, 2 Pack

I have been struggling to find a good pad that would actually cut and remove defects quickly from the paint of our vehicles. I was way beyond basic polish and looking for something that would actually remove the swirls and scratches on our abused autocross car that someone had previously polished when the car was obviously dirty. Horrible swirl marks and hazing all over the vehicle as you can see in my first picture. I tried an orange pad with compound and it took forever to do one section and there were still SO many visible defects. I tried switching my compounds thinking that was the problem. Still, I wasn't getting the results I needed, so I started debating paying a detailer to do all the work. I finally bought these per AMMO NYC's recommendation and I'm so happy I did. I finally got the wonderful results I've been chasing for years and the vehicle looks completely different. These are easy to use and allow you to see results fast. I ended up using both pads for one vehicle as I don't have a pad washer on hand and the car had extensive build up in the paint that the pad ended up grabbing, even after claying the car. The depth, shine, and lack of scratches is amazing as you can see in my two after pics.

I’m a professional boat Detaler / painter. They’re good for cars mostly. try to stay away from putting a lot of product on them because they load up quick , I get a bunch of them, tear them off throw them in the washing machine go again , if you go light on products, this will do the trick ! You need a bunch of them if you’re gonna be working on a big job they should sell eight packs . Great for D/A . I suggest putting the product on the actual applicator ( a block microfiber sponge , or sponge type round) by hand and then buffing it off with this wool or Terry cloth is for more “cutting, “& microfiber or Finnish pad last . is to Finnish it .,,To avoid clogging up or use a brush and clean it as you work because it’s a very thin pad does a trick though Maguire is made by 3M so you know you’re getting something quality. Same as Rupes thats more expensive than what’s needed . Check out my work , and you can see , awesome. Make sure you’re using the right product., ect . To accomplish best results.

They work perfect

To open this review - I'm a comfortable "DIY" person, but had almost no experience in finishing / buffing cars outside of your usual eblow grease and generic wash/wax products from the autostore. I knew I needed to significantly step up my knowledge and approach to take on a classic car that sat for ~30 years oxidizing, getting sun spotted, and accumulating dirt. After a lot of reading and considering possible solutions... I arrived at the following products: - Porter Cable 7424XP and an Astro 4607 5" PU backing pad - Meguiar’s D300 Correction Compound applied with Meguiar's DMC6 Cutting Disc - Meguiar’s D301 Finishing Wax applied with Meguiar's DMF6 Finishing Disc These selections were made as something that seemed like it would provide a good result, with limited risk of burning through what paint is there or otherwise "doing more harm than good". I had high hopes but low expectations. The end result has exceeded my hopes. There is an argument that a higher cut product may have been acceptable for the car in question - but I still worried about my capabilities in using it without doing more harm than good. At any rate, the Meguiar's products did an incredible job in removing oxidation, imperfections, and restoring shine. The pictures tell the story - but I also think the pictures fail to capture how dramatic the difference REALLY is in real life. With that said, the car itself was haphazardly repainted ~30 years ago. It has plenty of knicks and dings, some areas that were damaged beyond any product's ability to save, and other assorted imperfections. I never expected a show quality car, but just wanted something that would look "GOOD" driving and having fun for a few years until I'm able to consider a more extensive restoration. With that goal set in mind, I think this was the perfect selection of products. A couple notes on application process I took for this particular project: - 3 applications of D300. The first took up most of the oxidation. All of that grime and garbage made this application kind of "ugly" looking as working. The product did tend to dry on and stay behind with this application without several pauses to clean the pad. Not unexpected given the starting condition of the car. Second application was a much smoother process where you could really start see the finish smoothing out and color coming back. Third application was subtle improvements only - IE - what you want. It almost felt like you weren't doing anything at that point. - Wipe down with a microfiber cloth by hand to get up any extra residue - 1 application of D301, working over and over and over until the wax lines / cloudiness is almost completely gone. - Follow up circular hand polish with a dry microfiber cloth to remove any excess wax and even out the remainder of the application. Per instructions on the bottle - simply clean pads with an air compressor. I blew out both discs after each application while letting them spin on the tool. I'm actually surprised at how well they continue to "clean up" - again and again. Hope this info is useful in guiding someone to taking on a project - and hopefully - being as similarly pleased as I am!

These pads are so good for deep compound cutting with DA buffers. I get the best correction results using these and a good compound. Buttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt, their durability is a serious concern. Every pad I have used the red foam underneath the microfiber surface starts to come apart and I get little foam debris in the wash and on the paint during use. I even went through Meguiar's customer service (they're GREAT) and the new replacement ones they sent me did the same exact thing. The sad part for me is that they perform SO well the the poor durability has just been something that I've had to accept. Normally I would dock more than 1 star with such a critical flaw, but the pad itself performs so well at its intended function that 3 stars would be disingenuous.

Take note of my photos of the before and after of my Supra. Then continue looking and you'll realize that one of the photos isn't of my Supra. It's my Lexus ISF and the Supra in the reflection of the Lexus. You will get MIRROR FINISHES following these steps. Get a good Dual Action Polisher 6" (Harbor Freight has it, or Amazon) and several large packs of GOOD microfiber detailing towels from Amazon. Get some Meguiars M205 and the DMC6. Get some foam polishing pads. Get some Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light. Get Groits Panel Wipes. Get some Optimum No Rinse wash. Stop waxing your car and causing swirl marks (that you hide with... wax that breaks down over a few months). Stop washing your car at the car wash that uses contact. Touch free is ok from now on! That's disputable unless you have a GOOD ceramic coating! I NEVER have to wash my cars. Maybe once every 3 months I'll do a manual hand wash. Always have the surface lubricated with a lubricant (not just water!) when touching it!!! Begin with tons of patience. Use the Optimum No Rinse and follow it's instructions to wash the car. This is how you should have been doing it to begin with! If you feel like there is a ton of wax etc get a decontamination remover from Groits or the likes of Chemical Guys etc. Get the paint SURGERICALLY CLEAN. This is paramount for the rest to work! After you have removed all contaminants from the paint it's time to correct it. You MUST do this with endless Diffused LED lighting or you will have a hard time spotting defects. Get your DA polisher, the DMC6 pad, and M205. Put it all together. The first step is to prime the DMC pad. Slowly spin it and give a squirt of 205 across the pad and stop it. Then use your fingers or a rubber gloves and work the product into the pad.. then it's time to apply a small strip on the pad for actually working the paint. On my Harbor Freight DA polisher I use level 3-5 depending on the work needing to be done. Generally start low and work up. Use a straight back and forth pattern followed by up and down pattern using moderate to heavy pressure, depending on the level of defects. Try not to let the product dry as you work it, but it's ok if you are actively working a panel. To remove the product use a slightly damp with Optimum No Rinse+water MF towel and gently swipe it away and dry the panel with another MF towel. - quick snippet on MF towel use- Do not "bunch up" the towels. Always use them folded with the seam of the towel away from the paint and the nap of the towel towards the paint. Always keep the MF towel thick so that your hand doesn't accidentally transfer it's shape into a hologram on your beautiful door. Always always use perfectly clean towels!!!!!! -back to how to do the 205- Just don't let it sit long after you've worked the panel, after all you want to see how you did! Continue the same panel again but with medium and light pressure. This is almost like sanding the paint down but at a microscopic level. So heavy scratches take out heavy defects, and then you need refinining medium and light scratches to remove those heavier scratches, until you can't see them anymore. Continue this for a single panel. If your paint isn't damaged you can do two panels. But the DMC pad (and any other) will build up residue from the corrected paint that must be removed. That's why you want maybe 4 of these to do a car. One for each section is how I do it. I use one for each end of the car, front (hood, bumper and fenders), one for one side, one for the other side, and one for working the rear. If you work the pad and notice swirl marks that are new... That's your pad full of old clear coat residue. Use warm soapy water and Dawn dish soap and gently massage the residue out and all soap out until no foam remains. This is also paramount and you'll likely mess the identifying up if you try to make the pad work too much surface. It will fill up and you will add swirls (not a big deal!! Just annoying, but part of the learning process). So change the pad frequently and especially when you out a new pad back on be sure to prime the pad with product and then add your amount you'll be using to correct the paint. Once you've gone over the entire car: you have to do it again but with a Polishing Foam Pad. I actually use Harbor Freight Polishing Foam Pads lol works great. It does break down after maybe 1 car. It's not reusable. But it's cheap. Use the M205+a squirt of water from a spray bottle in a mist onto the pad for extra lubrication. Use medium and then light pressure in the same left right up down pattern as before. Use the same product removal technique, properly diluted Optimum No Rinse on a MF towel and a MF towel to dry the panel. Then follow the Gtechniq instructions for applying the Crystal Serum Light. Just remember: don't let it dry and don't think of it as wax. You're only skimming it's surface to remove the excess. Follow the directions for the CSL. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Part of those directions is to again use panel wipe to remove all residues from the polishing process. Youtube Gtechnique and AMMONYC. You will have a very durable coating that will keep the paint from getting dirty in the first place, AND makes cleaning crazy easy. Always use lubrication and be aware of the contamination on your MF towel!!! Your paint will look like this for YEARS. Update 11/2019: nothing new to report ;)

I love these for heavy cutting. I use mine with a rupes polisher and rubbing compound. I polish plastic windshields and headlights as well as step 1 polishing items I paint. Less chance of damaging surfaces that using the old type wool pads.

Been using meguiars for years ease to use easy to remove good thickness functions well I use it for my paint corrections