Nobsound 100W Subwoofer Digital Power Amplifier Audio Mini Amp (Black)

With active subs disappearing and becoming ridiculously priced, this IS actually a solution. The passive-to-acitve sub this made, actually sounds better and its quite obvious.Now I do feel that each unit should come with a power supply (cheap to order, but be careful not to get one without!), as well as a 3.5 stereo to single rca... but I assume these exclusions are there to keep the price down, and many of us audiophiles have a bunch of scraps laying around.This is what you want. This is for my piecemeal setup for my pc, and now I can thrift a better active sub!Highest recommendation I can give. Get this, instead of hunting for an active sub unless you need an active sub for a setup that should have an active sub already!PS: Currently using it with a 15v 1a, and it is working great. Full range on this older Samsung HitB mini sub.

Class-D amplifier uses very little power when not used, so it does not need an auto-off switch. Volume knob doubles as power switch, so you can turn it off manually without unplugging it. A benefit of this type of power switch is that it mitigates any power-on/off popping.Works perfectly with an old 8-ohm 8" passive HTIAB subwoofer rated for 100W. I haven't noticed any noise or hissing with this amp, unlike a different (much higher priced) Class-D sub amp I own. I don't think the Nobsound gets to 100W, but the speaker is plenty loud for a medium room. Connected to a passive sub, this Nobsound amp won't shake the seats in your home cinema... but it would if used as a bass shaker amp.This amp pairs nicely with a 65W/19v laptop power supply and a 50W BST-1 bass shaker. I love how my lounge chair rumbles while watching The Dark Knight, especially when the Batmobile is on screen. I've also hooked it up to four 16ohm 25 watt bass shakers and an old 135W laptop power supply to make my computer chair shake with movies and games alike. I have picked up spare ~19V laptop power supplies free from office buildings being renovated, so I have a few options.This amp has a decent low pass filter, especially for the price, but it will pass the lower voice frequencies to bass shakers if fed a full signal. I recommend a 70Hz low pass filter, or use an LFE port set to 80Hz if you plan to drive a bass shaker.The only real negative is it only has a 3.5mm minijack input.I did a head-to-head comparison between this amp and a PBTL/Sub amp from a big Fbrand on Amazon. That PBTL/Sub amp did NOT work well at filtering voice frequencies, no matter how I turned the knob. I ended up returning that one and keeping this Nobsound amp. The Nobsound doesn't have a ton of features, but it just works.

Works really well for what it is and was perfect for a budget build. Only downside is there’s no low pass filter which means you get voice from your sub. Not a deal breaker by any means. Still moves the sub like mad. Don’t forget the power supply

I have an old sub-woofer that I rebuilt and the amp plate was not working very well. I was looking to buy another amp plate and saw this product. Given the difference in price I decided to risk it and purchase this amplifier. I was surprised at how good it sounds and how easy it was to hook up. I took out the old amplifier plate and then put connectors with leads to the woofer on a wood plate. I put the this unit on top of the sub box and then connected to the main amplifier sub-woofer connection. I had to put an RCA splitter on the cable and then connected everything via an RCA to mini plug for the input. I used banana plugs for speaker connections to sub-woofer amp. The unit does not come with a power adapter but I had a 12v 6amp power adapter and it worked just fine. So far so good. Sound is clear with plenty of power for a 10 inch driver. I am going to order another one as I have another sub woofer project in the offing and will be using the Nobsound as the amp. I will update if I have any problems.

I bought this amp and despite appearances its not as hassle-free as one would think. Its not hard to properly connect speaker wire or plug something into a PC and wall. Despite this I had nothing but problems for two days as I tried to get this device to work. The listing, which doesn't directly say the power requirements of the device are (and there appears to be no information on an exact or similar product elsewhere on the net), points to a power supply that should work. Unfortunately I did not order that product because I knew I had at least two on hand with the exact ratings.One was from my old home theater system this amp was replacing, one was from an Intel NUC and I came up with a third I borrowed from a room mate, all fit the 19-25v @ 3+a that the suggested power supply could produce. That's where the problems started. Every power supply I used immediately tripped a fuse and reset becoming inert for about 20 minuets after just plugging it into this device. This while there was no load at all- the amp wasn’t even powered on aside from the power light.I did manage to get some response from my borrowed 25v/5amp power supply but it wasn’t encouraging because it constantly reset. After the more robust power supply failed to start this device I determined that it was either defective or the power requirements were not being met so I put it back in its packaging and shipped it back to Amazon.Unless you know something about the electronics in this device, such as its power requirements and how to check for shorts etc, I wouldn’t recommend this device to the average user. It certainly isn’t hassle free and might result in extra expenses just to get the thing to work as advertised.

Desceptively small but gets the job done...if you get a nice DC power supply. for $18 I got a 24volt x 6 amp supply with the right connector (center positive, 5.2mm). Goes right up to 100 watts with power to spare. When I used lower power bricks the amp peaked about half way up the dial and then dropped off, as others have reported. Nothing wrong with the amp. It's the wimpy power brick!