ElecGear TMR Joystick Replacement for Steam Deck LCD, Electromagnetic Hall Sensor Left and Right Thumbstick Module PCBA for MEDA and MHDA, Repair Tool Kit Included

The revision 2 model of the ElecGear TMR Joysticks are holding up great! I installed them a few days ago, and I've been playing Katamari Damacy to really put the joysticks to the fullest stress test possible, as the game requires full 360° rotation for the joysticks and also utilizes joystick button clicks (from the reviews, a known issue from early revisions of the model).These joysticks have no stick drift, have a lot of precision to them allowing the Steam Deck to lower the threshold all the way to 2000/2000 for both joysticks. It seems like technically speaking these could even be reduced down to 1800/1800, possibly even 1600/1600 without having drift. However Steam software doesn't allow for that, nor is it really necessary, more just a testament to the accuracy and sensitivity potential of these.The installation instructions were adequate, and there was a relatively good video provided as well. I did record a video of my own as I did not see many recordings, it includes the installation of these TMR Joysticks from ElecGear, as well as a replacement backplate from elsewhere. The video turned out to be a bit over an hour, the install was maybe an hour-40 -- mostly due to pausing to make sure, taking adequate time to check instructions, plus some recording aspects added a little bit of time. I think quite honestly, this is easily a sub-40 minute installation. Take out the SD card, take the backplate off, unlatch and remove the cable and 3 screws on each joystick, then 1 solder contact pad that is relatively easily removed (some glue slowed down the heating of the solder). Then, remove the joystick cap, add it to these TMR ones, and resolder the wire to the contact point. Very very easy soldering practice.For anyone looking to give a small, easy upgrade to their Steam Deck, Revision 2 of the ElecGear TMR Joysticks are a good way to go. Full, circular radius. The installation is seriously easy.Thanks for offering such a great upgrade as such a reasonable price, less than $20 feels like a steal.

The video above demonstrates that the button is stuck.UPDATE: The replacement I received has the same issue as the first. Clicking the left analog requires a ridiculous amount of pressure to actuate. I've tried to break it in but the issue doesn't improve. Perhaps they have a bad batch, but I've resorted to using a Gulikit left stick and the elecgear right stick. Gulikits are great but suffer from square deadzones, so I switched to these elecgears for their circular deadzones like the oem sticks, with the added stick drift benefits.

As title says, these beat the GuliKit sticks in every way. From stick smoothness to deflection range accuracy to click pressure. The only thing the GuliKits have over these is their stick centering is a little more aggressive, and as such the deadzone slightly smaller; but in either case, both of their deadzones is smaller than the smallest deadzone value in Steam Input (2000), so this ends up being a non-issue, making the ElecGear sticks truly effectively better in every way. You have to solder yes, but it is super easy and can be done in a few minutes even by an amateur. Do note you will have to raise the temperature over solder melting point to melt the glue (300–350C is what I used) so that you can detach the wire on the original sticks. Be careful not to burn the board!

Sticks track excellently, until you click them at extreme vertical deflection. Doing this seems to present new maximum values in the output, causing the sticks to fail to reach maximum value unless they are also clicked during deflection.See video. Happens with both of my sticks. Horizontal axis seems unaffected. I haven't been about to calibrate this issue out, SteamOS seems to instantly begin using the new maximum value, and this makes gameplay difficult in some games. Rebooting the console fixes this, until a stick is clicked again at maximum vertical deflection.

- very basic soldering needed (easy)- calibration needed (easy)- barely need to take apart the deck (easy)You'll obviously need to take apart your steam deck (remove your microsd card first!) so please watch a YouTube video or two before doing it and make sure you're using the correct screwdriver bit so you don't strip your screws!! Use a PH1 size!!Yes there is minor soldering involved so be aware/prepared for that. I have janky soldering skills and still managed to do this so don't be intimidated by that!Instructions can get you by, but do some research too on how to set these up/calibrate them, its super easy.Once they're set up, they are so much smoother than stock! These use a circle gate rather than square like the other brands which is better. Highly recommend!!

Extremely smooth response, great recentering, movement and precision accuracy meets or exceeds the original stock sticks due to the exact same range and voltage equalization used and expected by the Deck's firmware. The hardest part of assembling the module is removing the wire from the hot glue on the original stock PCB, which takes a 400C soldering iron. The actual contact pad is silver at the bottom, so you just need to heat up the glue until it eventually melts and 'peels' off the PCB. Any burning residue is not the PCB--it's the glue--just clean your tip constantly with brass.Soldering the wire on the new PCB is easy--just apply flux to the rectangle contact point AND to the wire ends also, apply solder to the tip of the iron and then apply the wire to the contact area on the flux, touch the wire with the soldering tip applying pressure, and the solder will flow and fuse the wire to the contact area.*edit* as others have pointed out, there is a hardware flaw with these sticks, far worse than any 'square gate' gulikit issue (Provided you get a sample that isnt defective, as my right gulikit had a problem with the connection). Pressing middle stick click at max down deflection changes the calibration range slightly, preventing full range downwards unless middle click is held down at the same time! Rebooting the steam deck fixes this, but neither the Gulikit, Stock, or the new HandheldDIY sticks have this flaw. Cannot recommend these anymore for anyone--try the handheldDIY model, if they make one for the LCD deck.

We purchased these under recommendation from a user in a Discord server. The joysticks arrived quickly and were super easy to install. They worked perfectly out of the box, and once they were calibrated they blew us away. They're far more precise than the OEM joysticks and much higher quality than the GuliKit ones (which had too loose tolerances and didn't even have full range of motion!) Would definitely recommend buying these to replace your drifting OEM sticks, or just to upgrade your input system!

Don't waste your money and time on the Gullikit ones. They could not fix their outer dead-zone issue even on rev 2 hardware (yes that's a design issue). These ElecGear ones are good quality, right output range, and always dead on center (when rest). It also runs very smooth with no observable jitter. If you are looking for replacing the joystick with hall effect ones on steam deck this is the only option. Some minor things like you need to solder the wire, and the soldering pad is too narrow. But considering they've done so many more importance things right I would still give them 5 stars

These are better than the Gullikit Sticks in nearly every way.They are more accurate, smoother, have a circular deadzone, more responsive and less jittery, feel more premium and overall provide a better experience.These address and fix every issue that all the other Hall effect replacement sticks have, and then these go beyond and function better than the original sticks too.Theres literally no negatives I could find despite trying very hard. You will need to solder your own sticks, but other than that they’re easy to install, they come with everything you need to open your device and there are included instructions going over how to calibrate them afterwards very clearly.Overall, these went beyond my expectations and I will never use Gullikit stuff again.

Éstos sticks no tienen el problema de la zona muerta exterior. La zona es completamente redonda lo que hace qué los sticks respondan perfectamente. También son compatibles con los 2 tipos de sticks (meda y mhda) con los que vienen los steamdeck con solo mover 1 switch.Se necesita desoldar el cable del cap con el sensor touch del stick original (sin cortarlo) y soldarlo a los nuevos, y aunque no es muy difícil, puede qué sea un pequeño inconveniente para quienes no tienen las herramientas y jamás han soldado algo.

問題なく取り付け出来ました。だからと言って変わらないよねー。高いものでも無いし買える時に買って交換しておこうって感じ。

Works perfectly... until you press the stick and the Steam Deck self-calibrates their stick range, giving you an oval dead-zone.Would otherwise be excellent

As others have mentioned, clicking the stick while at maximum vertical deflection will recalibrate your deadzones and make some games unplayable. Rebooting or putting the Deck to sleep will reset it. This affects the right stick much more than the left stick, the reason for this is still unkown.