Central Pneumatic Air Compressor Pressure Switch Control Valve Replacement Parts 90-120 PSI 240V Air Compressor Pressure Switch Control Valve

This pressure switch was an exact replacement for the a Central Pneumatic (Harbor Freight) 2 HP 4 Gallon air compressor model 95498. This appears to be the exact switch it was built with. I did find that the cable clamps were different than the original. Initially I tried leaving the clamps on the electrical cables and screw the bottom part into this switch. The screw part did not mate with the new switch though. This wasn't a big deal, it just meant sliding the old clamp and screw fitting off both cables and using the new ones that were supplied with the switch. This is the only thing I found different between the OEM switch assembly and this one. Just use the new fittings supplied and but on both sides of the cables (inside and outside the case) before wiring up the cables. These switches apparently use a rubber diaphragm as part of the design. Over time the rubber degrades and fails, then air pours through the diaphragm. This results in the air compressor having no pressure. It is a bit hard to hear where the leak is because of the noise of the compressor, and the air leaks so fast that you only have a second or two after turning off the compressor to find it. If you have a compressor with this type of switch, it is likely the case. Take the cover off an you will feel the air leaking out. My compressor was working when last put away. When I went to use it again after being stored for some time it had no pressure. The diaphragm of these switches will fail just sitting. Note that changing this switch, at least on this compressor was a pretty big job. They appear to literally put the switch in and build everything else around it! The tip is to first disconnect the air line to the compressor, disconnect the compressor electrical wires, then slide the entire compressor assembly on its mount off the base. This will give more room to work, and to disconnect the gauge, regulator and outlet. This switch also serves as a type of manifold, and it isn't an exaggeration that everything needs to be disassembled, then reassembled essentially in reverse order. I did use OATELY Pipe joint compound on the fittings when reassembling. The switch worked properly, and was properly calibrated at 100 PSI. I expect this switch is exactly the same as the original, so hopefully lasts another 10+ years or so before it fails again.

Works great as good as quality product as tve OEM part it replaced. Use a high quality teflon tape and skip the plumbers dope.

Works fine for my old compressor would buy it again

The price was right. Works just like the original. On and off as well as a new pressure limiting switch. I like that I didn't need to purchase any parts that I didn't need such as the gagues and connectors. Installation was straight forward. However, I found it awkward. This is my issue not the product's problem. An old guy like me found it hard to accomplish on my knees on a concrete floor. I wish that I could have brought it up to table height for the install. If you need a replacement switch for your compressor, it is very likely that you have all the tools, teflon tape and expertise to install the part.

It was an exact fit for my air compressor. Only took about 15 minutes to swap it out. Air compressor is working like new again.

Llegó muy rápido y el artículo cumple muy bien su función

Perfect fit

I bought this to replace the switch on my Rigid air compressor, it looks identical but many differences. Like others are saying, the screw holes are not there for the ground wire, be prepared to either drill and tap, or use a small self-drilling screw. The plastic cover is not the same as the original, so if you just need the cover, this won't work. The electrical contacts are smaller, so it's likely they will not last as long. The aluminum body is not as thick/sturdy as the original. The 4 screws that hold the aluminum body on, used regular nuts, no lock washers, where the original used the nylon lock nuts, with all the vibration from the compressor, it is likely these nuts will work loose and the pressure switch will fail. I used the nylon lock nuts from the old switch, they fit. The holes where the wires go thru are not as big as the original, I had to ream out the 2 holes in the switch so the wires would fit. The pressure release also works differently from the original, with the original, the compressor ran a second then the valve closed, giving the time for the motor to get to full speed, the new switch does not do that, I don't have it installed yet, but I will update this once I do. Also, the small fitting for the pressure release was brass on the original, but looks like pot alloy on this switch. Just beware, it will not be a quick simple easy replacement due to several differences. Also for info, on 120v, all you need to run through the contacts is the hot(black wire) I plan on putting the neutral(white wire) under the same screw and save the other set of contacts for use later.