XYZprinting Nobel 1.0a SLA 3D Printer (for Dental & Jewelry)

Was attracted by the price and the type (SLA/DLS), looked solid.Apparently very much not solid, in the most literal sense of the term.I booted it up the first time, following the instructions step by step, and soon had a tank full of resin and a plate lowering. Then, there was a small popping noise, and a buzzing. Error 1005. Upon further inspection, the pieces of plastic holding the y-axis belt in place had snapped, rendering the unit unusable. I'll probably seek a refund, and then switch to formlabs.

PROS: The printer works well. I get very good results from it. It`s a piece of solid machine. Has auto-refill thing which I like. I`m going to couple it with some solid FDM printer for quick large parts and this baby is for fine detailed work such as gears or detailed showcase models.CONS: Software it comes with is a total garbage and a joke. It crashes ALL THE TIME and is slower than a grandmother`s grandmother - 15 through 20 minutes to slice a single print (WTF???). You need to exit out EVERYTHING to make it run somewhat. I tried it on different computer at work - same BS. You need lots of patience to deal with it. Cannot use any other software - it`s a proprietary thing. You also must use their resin, although that part I don`t mind too much as far as the price goes - other resins are just as expensive. I think they`ll unlock it after milking us for a while, just like they did with the 1.0 version. The vat needs to be either replaced rather often or if you`re a bit handy you could try to Frankenstein it into a FEP mod ( a bit of an online research should do)All in all, good printer, if you are willing to put up with that horrible software and not afraid to get a bit messy (that`s just the nature of SLA printing)

Despite what other people think, this is great machine and the 3d printed parts look awesome. It is a complex machine and uses a complex process; and has nothing to do with the FMD type of 3D printers... with this one, you have to earn your quality up at the expense of throwing away some expensive resin. But, you can get outstanding prints at the end.

The worst printer Ive had the unfortunate business of dealing with. Did not print anything, error code saying motor vibration, buried the build platform in resin and made a mess, somehow printed around the build platform and not on it. AVOID THIS PRINTER! Would give it no stars if possible. Also had to pay for return shipping, overall terrible waste of time. If you can afford it, Formlabs is a much better printer.

COuñf be better. I would go for the first gen as they are essentially the same but only different is the cover

I have owned three 3D printers now, the Nobel 1.0A being the third. I first owned a more common extrusion plastic style which, while less expensive, proved inadequate for my needs. I then stepped up to the Nobel 1.0, which was by far the most economical option for an SLA style printer, which is capable of producing much greater resolution, but was not without it's faults. There was a fair amount to gripe about with the Nobel 1.0.I was lucky enough to be a Beta tester for the Nobel 1.0A, which allowed me the opportunity to try it out and see what improvements had been made at no cost to myself.The 1.0A is really close to the 1.0 in terms of the basics, operation is the same, resin is the same, resin tanks are the same... it's the guts of the machine that are different and VASTLY superior. No longer is there an annoying 5 minute warm up on the printer. The printer utilizes the same software as the 1.0, xyz's proprietary slicing software, but with the 1.0A they have vastly improved the visualization of your model. With the 1.0 it was difficult to view your model once it was sliced... not anymore. And the output of the 1.0A is remarkable. Super clean pieces, little to zero distortion... really spectacular results.You can choose from three different resolutions to print at, although nearly everything that I have printed at is done at the highest resolution possible. (I mostly print art pieces)Printing is still slow, especially at higher resolutions, but that has never been important to me. To me, first and foremost is quality of the print... and as someone who works with several high end commercial 3D printers at my day job, I can say with confidence that the quality of the prints coming off the 1.0A is right up there with machines that cost 10 times as much.With the 1.0, I had problems with adhesion to the build plate several times. With the 1.0A it is far less common. The only truly failed prints that I've had with the 1.0A were models that literally filled almost the entire build surface. The effective capacity of the printer is less than what the build volume might suggest... which is true of any SLA printer I've worked with. The larger the piece you are trying to print the greater the likelihood of failure, as you are always fighting gravity. I'm able to work around this by breaking my models down into multiple parts and then reassembling them after they are printed.I wouldn't necessarily recommend this as someone's first printer, as there is quite a learning curve (as with all 3D printing), and the SLA style printer requires both resin and resin tanks as expendables... so it does cost much more to keep printing on an SLA printer than on an FDM where plastic can be as cheap as $20 a spool. That said, one thing I really like about xyz is that their instructions are very simple and easy to follow. There is not a huge community using this printer, so there aren't many resources outside of what xyz offers, but I have always been able to get the information that I needed from them.When the Beta test was done I traded in my 1.0 and kept the 1.0A, and I am VERY happy. Love the printer and the things that I'm able to print with it.

The printer is great, but the price from this seller don’t include the custom fees and is after all fees about 300$ more expensive than other sellers.