Partsam 440Lbs Lift Electric Hoist Crane Remote Control, 110V Electric Winch Zinc-Plated Steel Wire Overhead Hoists for Garage Warehouse Factory Ceiling, 38ft Lift Height Emergency Stop Switch

I am using this with a single line. I use it to lift (and lower) items into and out of my attic. I do not store anything up there that weighs more than 100 lbs., so the single line works great for me. I mounted this to the roof beams.I mounted it to a pair of RHKING 4 Wheel Trolley Assembly Roller Trolley 2Pcs Silent M10 Bolt for use with 1-5/8" Wide and All 1-5/8" or Taller Strut Channel [ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P9G4XV9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ] running in a Unistrut P1000T 1-5/8" 12 Gauge Metal Strut Channel [ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IA84TWO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ]The trolley just fits in the channel so I was only able to secure the channel on the ends. I used 1/2" x 2" lag bolts which is plenty sturdy enough for my purposes. Mounting to the trolley required drilling a 1/2" hole in the center of the top of the included mounting brackets. (Easy with a drill press, but doable with a hand held drill)I use the opening for the attic stairs to lift and lower items, so the trolley allows me to move the hoist and its load as while lifting so it clears the ladder at the bottom, while allowing a maximum length load. (due to the angle of the ladder.I installed this myself, but it is kind of heavy so the recommended helper makes the job easier and safer.Some people complain about the cord for the remote not being long enough, but it works fine for me. I generally need to be up in the attic to control the load, so being able to operate it from below is a non issue for me. If you need to operate the unit from below, I suggest spending the extra $100 on the unit with the wireless remote.I also constructed a 'cage' for lifting boxes and the like.I will add images and maybe a video shortly

* I would like to take a moment to thank Partsam service department for working with me.AMAZON and Partsam Immediately addressed the problems and resolved the issues to my satisfaction 100%. AMAZON communicated as a mediator and put me in direct contact with the vendor. I am a disabled veteran, with physical limitations. Justify making some simple changes with the cable configuration at double the lifting capacity from 440 pounds to 880 pounds which is more than enough than what I actually needed. When it comes to Safety, I would rather have too much than not enough. I would highly recommend the vendor Partsam To my friends, family and fellow veterans.Thank you again for all your help.Sincerely,Wayne Landry

We heat our house with a wood burning stove. We have central AC and heat but I hate to hear that elec. heater kick on. I can see dollar bills flying out the window.Anyway, my main chore every spring is to get over 2 cords of firewood stacked up to season till next winter.Now, I'm getting older and older and picking up heavy loads keeps getting harder and harder to do every year it seems like.So I found 3 oaks that had blown down in a storm in Feb this year and cut them up, hauled all the wood up to the house here and piled it up next to my wood splitter.Problem is that at 78 I find it's really really hard to pick up 100lb. chunks of wood to waist height to put them on my splitter.The solution for me was this little elec. winch attached to a swivel pole I set up. This is the cat's meow for me and a great back saver.It was well packaged and works as advertised which turns out to be perfect for my application.I take it down and bring it inside if it's going to rain. (Just the winch, not the whole pole)It just slides off the end of the steel bar I have it hanging from.So glad I found this item. Perfect.

Great product for the money...gave it 4 stars because there were no install instructions..had to learn the hard way.Electric hoist mounted on wall near 11' tall ceiling for double kayak (14’ long) – Lessons learnedElectric hoist: Control cable is 5’ long. Plug is about 6’ long. Need to buy a 2x2 metal Unistrut bar in the electrical section at Lowes/HD. Need to cut it to cover three joists unless you are attaching directly to wood…then it can be shorter. Use a stud finder and mark where the joists are. Place the Unistrut bar on the wall careful to have it low enough for the control to be reachable and use a level to mark the drill holes in line with the joists. Unistrut holes will barely line up with two joists but not the third…you might have to drill a hole between the oval holes in the bar to attach to the third joist. Easiest way to mount the winch is to attach the metal brackets that come with it to the back before putting it up on the wall/ceiling. Attach one side of the Unistrut metal bar to the wall and then slide the winch onto the metal bar. Secure the other two screws to finish mounting the metal bar to the wall/ceiling joists. Note: If you are mounting to a wall and will be running the cable to a pulley to change direction, line up the winch spool to the center of where the cable will come off of the pulley when it’s under tension. (Mount the hoist between screws so you can slide it left of right if you need to.) If the cable hits the auto-off bracket and triggers it, it can be removed…you may not know if this is necessary until you have the cable under load. There is a lock washer on the bottom of the pin holding the auto-off bracket..wedge it off with a screwdriver and unscrew the two little screws..spring comes off without cutting. Note you will not have an auto-off if you do this…didn’t matter to me as I needed a pulley to change cable direction 90 degrees so I didn’t have enough cable run to use the auto off..if you have enough run to lift what you are lifting to the ceiling you should leave the auto-off bracket on if you can for safety.Pulley’sKeep it simple. I mounted a 10’ 2x6 to the ceiling aligned with the joist lengthwise. Use a stud finder to map out the wood and draw a centerline so you can line it up with the center of the board (mark the end of both sides of the board in the center) Before putting up the board I drilled the holes and added the screws. (Make sure one of your screws is in the exact center of the board…this will be your starter screw.) Also, I attached the mounting hardware and pulleys. I installed the board by myself by drilling a hole in the ceiling to align with the screw in the center point of the board….screw that one in first , align the board end center line to your center ceiling line and then quickly get a second screw in. Keep the design simple…one rope up from the kayak on one side to a pulley and another rope up from the other side of the kayak to a pulley…pull the ropes tight and then tie loops at the end of each rope so they are the same length…so you can connect the hook from the cable to both loops. I used a dragon knot for each of the loops..had to guess to get the loops to line up. Note: if your travel length for the metal winch cable is not long enough to get your kayak from the floor to the ceiling, you can add a third pulley to the side of the board further away from the winch. (I gained about 5 feet of travel.) Use the straps that come with the winch if you can to support the bottom of the kayak..about 1/4 of the length of the kayak from each end.RopeI used climbing rope. Once you cut the rope, be sure to use a lighter to melt the outer plastic so the rope doesn’t unfurl.CarabinersFor the ceiling I used the kind that are oval and screw shut. For the Kayak attachment points I used the kind that have a clip that springs back…easier on and off.TestingJust to be safe, I let my double kayak hang a little above the ground for a day or so to make sure everything was secure.