US Stove BSK1000 Barrel Camp Stove Kit, Medium, Black

I didn't even look at the directions, so can't comment on those. The inside of my barrel still had epoxy resin all over it so trying to use screws and nuts on the back legs wasn't going to work. Self drilling/tapping screws to the rescue. I don't think any of these will fit perfectly to a barrel. I mean, it's a barrel not a precision made for woodstove barrel. I used the heat tape around the door frame to better seal it. Probably not needed but for 10 bucks it sure won't hurt. It throws off a lot of heat, I put the larger bung hole are the bottom below door to let in more air. Otherwise the vents seemed a little small. Oh, packaged very well. All parts included and well made castings. I might add the second barrel after tig welding some pipe through it and attaching a fan. To sum it up, I'm well pleased with this kit.

Very easy to make a heater. It took about an hour to turn a 55gl drum into a wood burning heater. Been using in my garage for 2 seasons and it’s holding up great. I’m going to make another one for the hunting camp.

This kit turns any 55 gallon drum into a wood stove, it’s built of quality cast-iron and fit the barrel perfectly,

It does what it is supposed to. If it came with a paper template it would have made things a little more convenient for marking, cutting, and drilling. But it functions well.

No heat sapping EPA garbage here! The money saved can buy a great hearth, fire board, ladder, flue pipe, etc. Expect to spend $1,000+ on the extras to install any wood burner. You will need power tools to use this kit as intended; a cutoff grinder, sawzall, power drill, etc. Once it's all installed, you will have one powerful smoke dragon.This is my second order, the first one is in my greenhouse on a double barrel stove (pictured) and has been in use for two years-ish now. A double barrel puts out around 200,000 - 350,000 BTUs of heat when running full blast and that kind out output kept my plants alive during the historic freeze in Texas. Single digits is hard to push back against with single wall plastic but this kit will help you do it; expect to be filling your stove every four hours, day and night if or when those temps come around. Temps in mid 20s, low 30s and a barrel will maintain hot coals for 6-8+ hours; depending on the quantity and type of wood used.I highly recommend a piece of straight pipe with a 90 degree elbow so you can make use of the 2" plug on most 55 gallon barrels as an air inlet without embers popping out of it. A carbon monoxide detector is a must; they are around $5-10 and will last all winter (don't get it wet!). keeping several inches of sand in the bottom of your barrel should increase its usable service life by several years. Welding gloves should also be purchased with this kit and will really help you with refilling while the stove is burning.Keep kids and pets away from the stove, bolt it down if you can. When it's really cooking, you can't be within 3' of it without the heat starting to burn.It's my opinion that wood is the best primary heat source for greenhouse heating; it's low tech and simply works. Propane is the best backup heat source, fuel never expires and heaters are simple devices.

Very solid, well built. A barrel heater is the way to go. Heats a large shop and destroys evidence faster than a politician.Took about an hour to assemble and I still have 9 fingers

Like most of the other reviews I've seen, I am very happy with my purchase and would buy another if I saw a use.The chimney adapter doesn't "LOOK" curved to fit the drum/barrel, but it is. I discovered this when I decided to put the the damper on the end of the drum instead of the side. I want to leave the indicated area free so I can use the surface for other things. However, a little furnace cement and some ingenuity - some "bend-a-matic' modification to the drum - solves that issue.When marking where to cut the opening for the door, it is necessary to do a little "free hand" drawing as there is no way to mark around the vent opening. A paper template of where to cut would have been a very low cost convenience. Perhaps the buyer could create a template by laying a sheet of newspaper over the INSIDE of the door and making a cut-out. Wish I had thought of that BEFORE doing it the hard way.Contrary to the instructions, inspired by some of the other reviews, I did NOT place the door so as to remove the smaller bung. Instead, I placed the door so that both the large and small bungs were beside the bottom of the door - that way both can be removed to allow more air into the drum - additionally, if I decide to add a blower later, I'll have a threaded place to connect it without more cutting.Be sure to use a fine-toothed metal cutting blade - (for THIN metal), I was caught short handed by how thin the metal is - had to go to a store and buy a finer blade for my saber saw.All in all, I am very pleased with my purchase and plan to build a (insulated) "tin shed" around it so I can duct the heat under my mobile home to augment the furnace.

I have had a barrel that I wanted to convert into a heater for my garage for some time. I didn't want to spend a ton of money doing it though. When I came across this kit, I jumped at it because it was cheaper than others I've seen and appeared to be just as well built. I was right. This kit came with everything I needed to modify my barrel. I just had to cut and drill the holes and bolt it on. It is well built and works like a charm. My only complaint, which I've read about other kits, is that it doesn't seem to offer enough airflow and tends to starve the fire a bit.