PVA Filament 1.75mm – Water-Soluble Support Material for 3D Printing – Compatible with Bambu Lab, Polymaker, Overture, and More – Works with PLA, PETG, Nylon, ABS – Clear & Transparent

I've been using this PVA to create complex internal spaces for some of my products. It prints well, and dissolves in water. I've had some issues with stringing - but I think this is because of my print speed (50 mm/s) and printer settings, which I haven't adjusted because it's not a big deal for me. It takes a while for the material to completely dissolve (depending on the water temperature and how much of the surface is exposed to the water). It becomes mushy / soft after about 30 minutes of exposure to warm water, and can be removed fairly easily with a pick or tweezers (if you don't want to wait for it to dissolve completely). Because I'm printing parts with a larger volume per surface area (i.e. fairly round parts), I usually soak in warm water for 30 minutes, remove the softened areas, and soak again, repeating a few times until all the PVA is softened and removed (I'm not the most patient person in the world). The dissolved PVA does have a slight odor to it, but dissipates after washing your final part. I haven't tested the adhesion to other plastics while printing because I don't own a dual extruding 3D printer - I've only printed the parts separately and then assembled them together afterwards. Superglue works very well on PVA. Because PVA is fairly brittle, I've broken pieces from accidentally dropping them, and easily superglued them back together, and to other 3D printed plastics.

This review is for the PVA, NOT the PLA that is also on this same link.PVA has a reputation for being difficult to print, possibly because the printers themselves are not well calibrated. To get PVA to stick to the build plate and to stick to your PLA part it is really important that the build plate is leveled, that the z offset for both nozzles is correct, and that the X-X offset between the nozzles is good. You also need to change some setting in your slicer. My slicer defaults to a .1mm offset for the raft, .1mm Z axis offset and a .4mm X-Y offset for the supports. These all need to be set to 0mm offset (because you will be dissolving the supports/raft and the default gap causes adhesion issues).The attached photos show a 2-inch (50mm) diameter sphere. The PLA printed at 205c, the PVA at 215c, and the build plate temperature was 45c. The first photo shows the sphere after most of the PVA support was removed with finger pressure. The second photo shows surface of the sphere after the PVA was dissolved, it does have some texture. The third photo shows the portion of the sphere that was not in contact with the supports and it is much smoother.Over all, I’m really pleased with the result. This is much better than using PLA supports, but I do wish the surface finish at the interface of the supports was better.

I just opened a new box of the PVA. It is very brittle not even able to be bent a little bit. It just snaps. Is it supposed to be like that? Am I missing some procedure to use it? Basically not usable. Update: After opening the box and storing the filament in a heated drying chamber for a few hours, it became soft and usable. The loose filament strands outside the box also softened. I believe the packaging was too dry, which made the filament extremely brittle. Once conditioned, it adhered well to PLA and printed successfully.

The media could not be loaded. Excellent all the way around. Bed adhesion, layer adhesion, interface adhesion. All of it.Completely dissolves away in water making for a flawless print for even the most complex overhangs. Bought another roll already.

The media could not be loaded. Not sure if this is just how PVA is, but the filament is kinda brittle and snaps easily, and I can accidentally peel off individual layers of the print once it's done. On the plus side I was able to print without issues using the default PVA settings on my Neptune 3 Pro with Elegoo's version of Cura. I used this filament as an inner mold for an epoxy mold and this did dissolve with water easily, it just took some time. I recommend both warm and running water.

Don’t buy this! It’s tempting when you see the price, but don’t waste your time! I don’t even know where to start. The filament is brittle so it will snap frequently, dry box or not. The spools are poorly wound, making the last issue even worse. Customer support is non existent. It warps and curls between layers, and has a tendency to bubble, completely destroying any sort of layer adhesion. It does dissolve if anything manages to print slightly useable, but expect the most badly warped surface wherever it was touching. In short, DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THIS! Spend a little more and avoid the headache.

Seems to have worked pretty well. I could see the debris embedded in the extruded filament. It's very slippery though, it needs some help getting through the extruder gears.

Initially, I was very frustrated by the lack of adhesion to my Prusa i3 MK3 print bed. I tried every variation of nozzle and bed temperatures I could think of; nothing worked. Within 1/2 hour of contacting their customer support, I had a response! Within an hour they had provided me with a solution: cover the print bed with painter's tape. Success! (Thank you, Kevin!) Every print since then has been flawless in its precision. I've tried BVOH and various brands of PVA and this is by far my favorite! It has great adhesion to painter's tape and itself. But, best of all is the ease with which it dissolves. It is so easy to remove any residue after dissolution in warm to COLD water. This is definitely my go-to PVA from here on out!