Morris Products LED Dimmable Under Cabinet Lighting Unit – Color Tunable, Driverless Technology – for Work Surfaces, Kitchen Counter Tops - White Steel Housing, 3K-4K, 5 Watts, 9” L

We bought two of these to replace a set of halogen undercabinet lights. The lights are very sturdy (aluminium not plastic cases) and include everything you need to install the lights. Each light includes a switched plugin cable, a cable for connecting the fixture to another light or the included hard-wire junction box, and both clear and frosted plastic light covers. These are line voltage (110 volt) fixtures and so do not need transformers. In our case we were replacing 12 volt halogens, but because the lights to not require a ground wire, we could simply remove the transformer and splice the wires together. In operation the light is just a bit "cooler" than the old halogens were but is still on the warm side (not the operating room white of some LED's) and they work well with an older dimmer switch. Last, they run cool. That is, after several hours they are warm to the touch as opposed to "too hot to touch" which was the case for the old halogens. Overall an excellent product.

1 year reviewOriginal review:"Very low profile, they do a nice job of lighting up our kitchen."I thought I'd update this after a year of using the lights. I have a total of 4 of these under our cabinets. Between these, there are two sets, operated by separate light switches. One is primarily used by my wife on the "office" side in the kitchen where she has her laptop and such. This particular light has also been the main nightlight for a year now. So basically running for at least 12 hours a day for almost a year. The remaining set is rarely used.So the night light one finally gave up the ghost. Annoyed and after verifying this it was truly dead, I proceeded to tear in down to found the cause. What most people need to understand is that while the LED itself will last 50,000 hours, the electronics that make them work may not. This would be the case in mine, and I suspect those here that have had lights fail. Upon examining the circuit board within the housing, I found two things. The first thing is one of the capacitors had popped. While not fully blown out, it was swollen and leaking oil. It's hard to say when it failed, as the biggest issue I suspect was the fuse that had also blown. Both of these parts may cost less than $5 to replace, but you will have to source the correct parts, as well as solder them back onto the board.I still give the light a 3 star, just for the simple fact it had some hours on it. It's unfortunate, but repairing something like this is out of reach of most folks, so they need to do a better job of putting in higher quality electronics with the influx of LED lighting into homes.

I used the Morris Products 71260 Under cabinet Light 18" LED fixture to replace an existing 21 inch 13 watt fluorescent fixture and I am very pleased with the outcome.4 screws are included, 2 to mount the power connection box and 2 to mount the fixture. The holes for the fixture are recessed and the provided screws are long enough to attach the fixture to the underside of the cabinet. The holes in the power connection box are not recessed and the provided screws only had about 1/4 inch of thread to try to bite into the wood and they just did not work. I got a bit longer screw (#6 x 1 1/2 inch wood screw) and they worked fine.The trip to the hardware store is the reason I gave this 4 stars and not 5.I have posted a few before, during and after photos.One of my questions was if the 18" light was going to be enough light to replace the 21 inch fluorescent. I think the 18" works great in this location with a single fixture. The other 3 are switch together but separately from this one and are over more of an area where we do more food preparation so I may go with the next larger size.I think we are going to like the fixture location out at the cabinet face as it will put the light more were it is needed. The good thing is you have more of a choice about location the two part wiring arrangement.I like that these are dimmable. I don't think I'll put a dimmer on this one fixture but it is something I would consider on the other 3, especially if I go with the next larger fixture.3/24/14 - Light Level IncreaseI downloaded an app for my phone that measures light level, totally uncalibrated and not scientific, but with the phone on the countertop in an area with the old fluorescent fixtures the level was 50, under the new LED fixture it was 110. Twice the light? I can't say for certain, but I have task lighting levels under the LED and not so much under the old lights.3/28/14I added the Evolve LRM-AS 120 VAC 500-Watt Wall Mount Dimmer switch today and it works well with this fixture. The light dims very evenly over the range of the switch and I am able to control the light with the Micasaverde VERA3 Controller with router built-in system.