PC Products PC-Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste, Two-Part 1.5 oz in Two Jars, Tan 23334

PC-Products Wood Repair Epoxy Paste and Wood Hardener Kit is a wood rot remedy to use in order to avoid a major repair job. It is an easy enough product for a DIYer to use and work with. No real special tools are needed. The PC Woody paste is a 2 part epoxy (part A and part B) wood resin which has a chemical cleanup with acetone. The PC Petrifier is a liquid type glue which has a H2O cleanup with regular water. The hardened epoxy is easy to sand, by hand and using regular sandpaper. The epoxy doesn't sag very much and has a long enough working time, even in 85 degree sunny weather, when using it in small mixed batches. You fill holes, crevices and depressions with a glob of the epoxy but it will take longer for it to set up, dry and begin curing. You can build up the epoxy in layers, even after sanding it. It takes primer and paint well. The PC Petrifier is to be used after exposing the rotted wood area and cleaning out as much rot as you can reasonably do with out taking out everything or at least cleaning and prepping the area as if you were going to just be painting it--meaning, get it to reasonably sound and clean state which may involve sanding, removing the debris, then wiping down with isopropyl alcohol. The PC Petrifier is a liquid and the best way to apply it if it is not a flat horizontal surface is to paint it on with a small sponge brush from a disposable plastic cup. Be warned that it can get messy and dries like hardened glue to whatever it gets on so tape off the sounding areas and really tape off below the area with perhaps plastic sheeting overlaid with newspaper to soak up the drips and have a rag and bucket of water nearby toe wipe if necessary. The PC Petrifier will soak into the wood as much as the wood will take and then dries to a darker hardness. Here is what I used (and recommend to use) for repairing about 10 window sills on my house that had various degrees of weathering/aging conditions, the worst being on the south side: disposable gloves, multiple pairs; a rectangular 5"x8" or so piece of thick plastic or plexiglass that is smooth to mix the 2 part epoxy on and use as a pallette to apply the epoxy from; a 1 1/2" putty knife with the corners slightly eased or at least not sharp pointy to mix the epoxy, apply it to the surface and shape with; 2 popsicle sticks or a pint stir stick cut down to similar size,then clearly mark one A and the other B (for each of the epoxy parts); acetone, at least a quart to start; paper towels, lots; painter's blue tape, enough to tape off areas where you don't want epoxy to get on and may want to use paper in conjunction with the tape to cover more as needed; wax paper if filling crevices next to surfaces you don't want epoxy to get on and bond to; paper to tape off surrounding areas as needed, any paper but newspaper or painters paper work well; a small wood rasp, like Stanley tools small 8 inch that is shaped with flat side and a rounded side, each side is half rough and half finer for rapsing and can easily knock down the dried high edges and boogers left from applying the epoxy; sandpaper in 60/80 grits and 100/120 grits to smooth out the dried epoxy; and, acetone, or isopropyl alcohol to wipe the finished sanded surface. Things to remember about epoxy in 2 parts: READ the directions, watch some videos to see how people do it and suggestions, even the dumbs one, so you get an understanding of the product and what to do with it; the size of each epoxy container is going to be doubled in totality so 6 ounces of part A and 6 ounces of part B equals 12 ounces; it is better to get only as much as you think you need but always prepare to get a bit more; the PC Petrifier seems to go a long way in comparison to the epoxy but definitely use what the repair area can soak in; keep each epoxy container well marked, like a A on one lid and B on the other, and closed when not scooping some out; only take out small amounts of epoxy to mix at a time because it does start to get harder to work with in 20-30 minutes time and you can always mix more; when you measure the PC Woody epoxy parts for mixing, use one popsicle stick for only that container of epoxy and wipe it clean with a paper towel soaked in acetone after getting the epoxy part off the stick and set it aside then do the same with the other epoxy part--scoop, deposit, clean and set aside; mix thoroughly the two parts of epoxy for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute, it should like light brown like fluff-n-nutter/peanut butter mixed with marshmallow; smear on the mixed epoxy and smooth it out as much as possible--PC Products says you can smooth it out with acetone to minimize sanding later but I found it to be a little difficult to not make a bigger mess so using the putty knife and layering was better for me even if it took a little more time to get to the final sand; warmer air and direct sunlight cuts down the epoxy work time so you may have to move faster at applying it during certain times of the day/season; let the dry fully,which is 24-48 hours before sanding because it will gum up and ruin the epoxy layer you had put on and need repair; if doing multiple layers, perfecting the smoothness of the repair, and sanding in between, wipe the surface down with acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove the dust; use wax paper, not parchment paper, to stick between the areas where you are putting the epoxy and where you do not want to end up with epoxy (see photos 4 & 5 show where I had to fill in missing wood at the bottom of the sill but I did not want it to seal or get on the siding below); CLEAN your plastic palette and putty knife after each time you apply the epoxy with acetone and paper towel so that you take off any residue and refresh those surfaces--your tools will not get gummed up and you will be able to mix more epoxy without issues; and, take your time. Also, if you need to attach something to what you are repairing, PC Products make a 2 part epoxy adhesive in a syringe for that--it worked great, did not sag and held a 1/4" piece of wood good as I went nailed it. I have used the PC Woody Epoxy and PC Petrifier years ago and I think the repair made then, although on wood in direct contact with the gravel on the ground, is still holding up. I am banking on that what I accomplished with the window sills will be as effective or more so because I don't want to revisit this particular house maintenance issue again. I can definitely tell you NOT to use Bondo on wood as was recommended to me years ago because it does not hold up at all. Bondo is actually more difficult to work with in my opinion, too. I recommend PC Woody.

Saved me from having to replace a whole panel of fiberboard siding from water sprinkler damage. As an old man without a truck to haul siding and not enough strength to want to rip off and replace the whole board, this seemed like a good option. Used a styrene backer under the rotted edge and applied it per instructions. First the petrified, and then the next day the epoxy. There is a learning curve but for first time use I’m satisfied. To prevent droop, per the website, I used a support 1x2 wrapped in wax paper. Applied two layers, with two days I between. Sands well, and I then painted. No, it’s not a perfect job but you can’t tell the panel was damaged unless you know where to look. I was a little worried about the second layer as I didn’t do a perfect mixing ratio, as evident by color. But I gave it 3 days to cure and it’s hard and didn’t prevent sanding. Both products, the petrifier and the epoxy are very good. Next project is a window sill. There is no obnoxious smells and cleanup was easy with water for the petrifier brush and alcohol for the putty knife. The color is a light tan that is easy to hide with paint.

Okay, so this stuff is awesome to use. I had woodpecker damage to wood siding, and about 200 holes to fill! Used this over a four day stretch, and these two tubs filled every hole (including extra to sand down).Make this stuff in small batches, as it takes about 30-45 min to start to set up. A full day to be able to sand it. You can stain it fairly soon after it starts to solidify- and be aware it does not absorb stain the same way as wood does, so it can take an extra coat or two. What I did was apply a stain two shades darker than I wanted with a tiny brush to just the wood epoxy spots- I did not wipe excess off but let it sink in. Then I covered both wood panels and spots with a semi-transparent polyurethane product to kind of blend it in. (It’s not perfect, but better!)In my pictures, you can see the one side where spots are darker and blend better- that’s where I applied extra stain to the fill product first; the pic with lighter spots was just the semi transparent stain/poly product on top.The paste itself was easy to use, just get an equal scoop of each tub and mix on a clean surface until color is uniform. You can get too much of one or the other and get a weird texture, so be careful that you get equal portions. I was applying this to holes in recessed areas so I used mostly fingers to shove it inside the woodpecker holes- I used disposable gloves because after the first trial batch I found it to be very sticky and tough to wash off my hands. Goo-gone did work but I thought gloves were a faster option.The material is sticky when mixed, a bit like room temperature peanut butter- so apply it in multiple directions if you need to fill holes or get an even surface. (If you are filling holes like I was, it saves product to use the gap-fill spray in foam stuff inside it first!)It did sand well where I sanded spots- by the end of my project I was too tired to sand the ones I ended up taking pictures of. It’s a never-ending battle with my neighborhood woodpeckers, so I expect more holes next visit. I just hope this stuff is bad tasting to birds hahahaha