Motorcraft - Motor Asy (P) (YH1933)

Super happy with this part. I watched several Videos that made it sound worse than in was. It took about 30 minutes total to install. I have the worst F 150 ever made (2012) They had more recalls on this one than any other year! Yeah me. Oh well. Be sure you have a decent set of fiber sticks. A small, short 7mm and 8mm socket with 72 teeth if possible. All the online video's show the firs part the same. 1) lift the rubber shelf off of the top of the radio. Use the 7mm to take those two out and set aside. Then pop the USB plate out and unclip the two connectors. Take the one 7mm screw out of there too. Using the fiber sticks, pop the two vent shields up (not off). The radio bezel comes out fairly easy. I disconnected the two upper connectors but left all the bottom ones on and laid the assembly down. Take out the 4 Radio 7mm screws and pull the radio out. Again, I just laid it down. It was never in my way. Take the screw out of the blend door actuator that you can see. Now is the tricky part. I dropped my glove box door and was able to get a small light up there and my two fingers to steady the socket. It really was not that bad. Lift the spline out. pull back the red lock and disconnect the connector. Everything else is all in reverse of course. Works perfect! I could not be happier. It is 90 out today and my air is working again!!

This is a fix for a very common Ford F150 truck problem. The placement of this part is quite difficult to access and I did not want to have to do this repair again so I went with OEM. The fit was perfect and after a few months installed is working as it should. I see some of the videos on YouTube regarding aftermarket knock off brands faulty after one to two years needing replacement. I always go with factory OEM when it is not completely cost prohibitive.

Ordered as a direct replacement for a constantly clicking blend door actuator in my 2011 F150 5.0 with the single climate zone. After reading lots of installation info on forums, I decided to unscrew the front bolt and just snap the plastic from the back bolt as I pulled out the old blend door actuator. This worked like a charm. I installed the new part & only bolted the front in, as suggested in some of the forums. We'll see how things go in the long run, but it's working great right now and I have no complaints.

Go to the internet and watch the uninstall/install videos before you buy the actuator and try a self install. It's a very hard DIY project, be prepared before you start. This is the second time I have replaced the blend door actuator. I used an aftermarket the first time and it is a little thicker, not quite an exact fit and only lasted a year. I would definitely buy the OEM for the extra few $. This is a direct OEM replacement for the original in my 2011 F-150. It works great once installed.

Worked perfectly!

This is an exact OEM replacement for my 2010 Ford F-150 Supercrew. I have the standard climate control (not dual zone), and was having a problem in which the climate system would only output cool air. I knew this part was failing, because for several months prior, I was able to hear a faint "grinding" or "hissing" sound whenever the temperature control was turned from hot to cold. Eventually the part quit working altogether. As others have mentioned, there are a couple of YouTube videos that show how to gain access to replace this part by loosening the trim on either side of the center panel, removing the center panel and then removing the radio. Further, you will need a small 5/16" (or 8mm) open-end wrench (see photo) to remove the screw on the firewall side of the actuator, and you will want to access that screw by reaching your right hand through the glove compartment opening. A couple of additional tips that helped me: 1. There is a large wire loom that runs across the upper area of the glove compartment opening. Loosen it from the crossbar to which it is attached (there are two push-in retainers) and move it down and out of your way to make it easier to reach your hand into the opening. 2. You will drop your wrench at least once. I tied a string around the wrench and my wrist to make it easier to retrieve the wrench when I dropped it, which I did (see photo). 3. Be very careful removing (and later re-inserting) the screw with your fingers. You do not want to drop it. Place a magnetic parts dish beneath it just in case. Luckily, I did not drop the screw, but you have to be very patient, especially when inserting the screw into the new actuator assembly. 4. The wire connector attached to the actuator has a red retainer clip that you need to pull away from the actuator and then you need to depress a locking clip to remove the connector. In my case, there was very little slack in the wire and so I had to remove it by feel. 5. Be careful and patient installing the new actuator. The gears are keyed. If it doesn't line up exactly as necessary so that the screw holes line up, you can turn the ignition key to auxiliary and SLOWLY rotate the temperature control knob to rotate the actuator so that it aligns into position. 6. After you get the new actuator screwed into position, start your truck and test the climate control operation before you put everything back together. If something is wrong, it will make correcting it a lot easier. All-in-all, installation was easy, aside from the challenge of removing the screw on the firewall side of the actuator. I spent just under 90 minutes, beginning to end, including the time I spent waiting for my truck to warm up so I could test the operation before putting the dash back together. If it weren't for the extra effort and disassembly required to remove and reinstall the one screw, this job would 30-45 minutes, tops.

This was a bit difficult but the job was made much easier following the below link. Tying the wrench to a string and around wrist was brilliant! I took this further and actually tied sone very light fishing line to the rear screw and wrist. I actually dropper the screw and was able to avoid it disappearing in the many unreachable cracks and crevices. Here is my big tip: I used a grinder to thin the walls of an 8mm box wrench (see photo). This enabled the wrench to see between the bolt and housing. This made removing the rear bolt much easier. Previous reviewers tips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1V7W5FTAFGEYH?ref_=nav_signin

Let me start off by saying that despite what Amazon says, this does work on the 2009 Lincoln Navigator. I followed a YouTube video for replacement of the blend door actuator behind the radio and found that it did not fix the problem. Instead I found a total of three actuators in the dash area. I diagnosed the wrong actuator but could not find much information on the location of the others or how to fix them. There is an actuator above the drivers side gas pedal that you can see laying on your back. This will likely be the easiest to replace. My bad actuator was located on the passenger side foot well behind a trim panel. The following is my less than elegant but functional way of replacement that will take about 3 hours. Remove both trim panels and the glove box door. You will need to partially separate the plastic ducting from the air box above. The actuator is located between the two. There are two screws on the drivers side that you can get access to and one on the passenger side in front of the actuator. Carefully cut the carpet down the center of the transmission hump with a razor knife. This will be hidden behind the trim panels and you will never see this when it is complete. This will allow you to separate the ducting going below the front seats. Hold this up with a scrap 2x4. You can get access to one actuator screw on the passenger side. The screws are 8 mm. I found using my small Craftsman carburetor wrenches about the only thing small enough to work (sort of) in this space. Next, the bigger challenge. The hidden screw. This is sort of accessed on the drivers side. There is a plastic mount on the lower ducting that hides the screw and is connected to - wait for it - absolutely nothing. I used my Dremel to grind it out of the way to get to the screw. I ground into the ducting to get better access to the screw. The hole I created was later covered up with foil HVAC tape. I also used the Dremel to cut the plastic tab on the screw which I later broke off because the access is too tight for a wrench. The actuator is actually between the air box and ducting and in order to remove them you need to separate them by 3/4 to 1". In order to do this I removed the bottom nut for the air box on the firewall at the passenger feet. Then I used a small bottle jack to gently "persuade" the air box up by about an inch. This was a careful operation. You can now separate the lower ducting and air box to slide the actuator down. I ended up breaking the tab on the old actuator to get access to remove the driver side screw. In my situation I had to realign the blend door splines with quarter I ground down before I could get the actuator in place. The drivers side screw basically went in finger tight since I could not find a wrench or socket to fit. The passenger side went back in just fine. This project was a P.I.T.A. However, the wife is extremely happy that there is no more clicking from it.