Grin Technologies FRONT Torque Arm for Mounting on Forks with Fender Eyelets. Thick 1/4" Stainless Plate

This is a very strong part. I need one washer to finish bolting it all up, but very adjustable and easy.

I agree with all the other posts here of the excellent quality of this product. Thick steel, tight fit gives me confidence to run a 1000 watt front hub motor (over amped to 30 amps and peaks at 1500 watts). The one thing I can add to these reviews is that it works perfectly with a Surly Karate Monkey fork, fits the fender eyelet perfect. The only thing I need to modify was to file the C washer just a bit to fit around the lawyer lips. I had previously used the cheaper torque arms that are sold and was very disappointed when they spun out on a cheaper steel fork, ruining it. But Surly is definitely the way to go and I have that fork on another ebike.

There are other choices for the front torque arm but none are built this tough. Stainless steel 1/4 thick and several choices to fasten depending on your front fork requirement to fit it. Have used this on my RANS Stratus XL build and it has proven to be extremely reliable after over 1 year and 1,500 miles or more so far.What is your safety worth? I trust only this front torque arm from Grin Technologies. An awesome product.

Works great, installed it on a 2017 Raleigh Talus I with a Golden Motor Magic Pie Edge. Everything bolted up as it should, good instructions, high quality parts.For the people giving low reviews because the included screw didn't fit: Hardware stores exist for a reason, so do drills and drill bits. The included screw is what fits most bikes. If it doesn't fit yours, use some ingenuity and buy what's right. If you're building your own electric bicycle and buying individual components, buying a screw or drilling a hole should be something to expect.

I have some minor grumbles about this torque arm And even though I will mention them later in the review I wanted to gush about the good part of this first. This arm is good hardened stainless steel that is thick . It fits the shaft of the motor extremely well. It seems nearly impervious to damageor abuse. And it is o larger in area than it needs to be. There are only 4 real options to using this torque arm on a kit ebike Ive used all 4 1)You could try the crappy torque arms that everybody sells under a thousand names and which probably came free in your kit If used as instructed those are not a very tight fit on the axle and use a suicide bound hose clamp. They delay catastrophic failure at best, they dont prevent it. 2) You coud just say "eff it, my puny motor would never spin out or spread my dropouts if for no other reason than I tighten squeeze juice out of my axle bolts like nobody else. That lasted about a year until I got slack.I didnt spit off a wheel but I now have dropouts that are more v than u shaped. 3) You could try to build your own torque arm. Channel your inner Martha Stewart or Dr Frankenstein and dig in with power tools. I did this before I found this Grin torque arm. Mostly my results were unfullfilling because I was attaching tings to crappy geneic torque arms using not-hose-clamps. I did finallymake one that worked perfectly and was secure and strong. But it looked like hell The one I made that worked was a 10 mm end wrench that I cut through the middle of the open end's throat about an inch down the handle. I chopped off the box end, drilled a hole in the handle and welded some extensions onto the open end jaws and a nut so I could use a bolt to clamp the 10 mm jaws onto the axle and I drilled and tap-ped the side of my forks to bolt the side of the wrench down. You dont want anything that ugly on your bike.4) you could buy one of Grinn's other torque arms and give them a try.No thank you on those. Grin originated the hose clamp disaster, learned that they broke, and quit making them Which made all the cheap chinese companies copy the bad design and sell it. But then Grin decided that maybe hose clamps werent so bad after all if you use a plentitude of them to affix torque arms to forks. So the only two other Grin front fork torque arms still in production that Ive seen use hose clamps agai. Even te super expensive and clever one for regen brake usersThis torque arm has only a few problems in the package and noe were dealbreakers for me. First problem the fasteners in the kit Torque arms are safety features. The kit has stainless steel fasteners and stainless steel metric fasteners have no standardised universal grading system for strength or durability orfitness for a task. SAE stainless barely do.They are supposed to at least approach grade five if feasiblle. What stainless bolt are reliably good at is looking prtty when new and galling and seizing together when threaded into other stainless steel threads. The M6 hex head ap srew in the kit was pre galled and could not be thraded into any female threads. No worries though I have grade 12.9 fasteners and I dont care about the colors not matching. Speaking of colors matching, the torque arm is supposed to be powder coated. If it is then it is the best example of invisible clear powder coating Iv ever laid eyes on. Ifnot then shame on gri for not changig the ad copy when they stared to sell better torque arms au natural.My last gripe is that for my bike the arm did not align with theone correct fender mounting threaded hole I could have mounted t in comperession on the correct side of my axle or in tension on the wire side. But insteaI tapped the small hole on the slotted piece to M6 and bolted tthrough the torque arm which allowed me to us a pe-exiting M6 threaded hole in the slot. Not bad for auniversal fit part. And it works remarkably well. Im still smiling