Air Locker AP700 Heavy Duty Professional Air Punch Nailer / Nail Remover / Nail Puller. 1/4 Inch NPT Thread Air Inlet. 80-120 PSI Pneumatic Nailer Removes 10-20 Gauge Nails , Black

Okay, I bought this about 4 or 5 months ago planning to use it for pallet wood deconstruction. I finally got around to using it, and I went at it just exactly the way that I saw it done on YouTube. I had deconstructed two pallets using a Sawzall which left a number of nails cut off in the wood. I had most of the pallet wood at my disposal to use if I could get those Nails out. I turned the pieces of wood upside down exposing the cut off parts of the nails which are usually three or four in a line going across the grain of the wood. I clap them to my workbench at first but eventually I just held them down with my hand because it was faster to switch them around. I put the air pressure from my air compressor at around a hundred PSI although it is rated for up to 120. This gun does a semi-automatic nail punch blast which you can do very rapidly on one spot where you want to punch the surface. I was extremely impressed with the performance and the ease of use. I knocked out most of the pieces of nail totally from the wood without having to pull additionals. The ones that did not just fly out of the wood after several impacts I just pulled out with a nail puller that was very easy. I highly recommend this tool to anyone interested in taking apart pallets or taking out Nails where pieces of the nail are exposed enough to punch through. That said, I'm sure that you could also punch through a workpiece to get to the metal underneath and then keep driving down through in some cases that's what I did, maybe it was easier for me because I was using reclaimed Lumber that was worn out and easy to punch into. Anyway it's worth a try if you are in that situation. You could also most likely use this to drive heavy Nails into a workpiece in a very accurate and fast way just make sure that you have the nails embedded in the workpiece already otherwise the force of the concussion might throw the nail out of the socket and into your eye or some other place it should not go. Make sure when you remove Nails in the way I described above that you put a bucket filled with either sand or water or some other kind of thing that will slow down the speed or velocity of the ejected pieces of nail. I couldn't get a small enough bag of sand at the Home Depot so I ended up just putting a bunch of old clothes in a good size garbage can that I set underneath the wood that was being denailer. This serve pretty good to collect all of the nails and it also was useful for collecting the shavings that came out of the wood when I drilled out the holes to get the remaining metal that is usually in though holes from pallet nails. Anyway that's my review. I only used it once after waiting for 4 months to use it. I might post another updated review after a year or so of using regularly. For the price and the work it does I don't think you can beat it.

This is a replacement tool. The 1st one worked great until an 18 gauge finish nail got lodged in the nose of the gun. We tried several things to attempt to remove the lodged finish nail, without success. Do not use to remove pneumatic finish nails.I love this tool except when a nail gets lodged between the firing piston & nose.

The Air Locker AP700 does exactly what it is supposed to do, and does it very well: It efficiently, quietly, and accurately drives nails out of reclaimed wood. In an effort to reclaim a floor, I was able to effortless de-nail around 800 2" cleats per hour from 3/4" oak while keeping the wood excellent condition - an impossible task without this tool. Since it paid for itself after 20 sqft, I am very happy with the purchase.It is the same body as the Harbor Freight #69719 Central Pneumatic 18-awg 1/4" Crown Stapler, with a custom hammer and nose assembly to allow guided extraction of nails. If you've ever worked with HF tools this should give you an idea of the quality, and professional grade is an accurate description: all metal, bare bones, would survive almost any abuse as long as it's oiled. The hammer is hardened, and was only slightly deformed after ~2500 fastener ejections. Not industrial by any means, but there are no delicate safety mechanisms or brightly colored plastic pieces to fall off as found in consumer grade tools.Speaking of safety, some additional care is warranted as there is no pressure actuated safety mechanism. However, since there are no fasteners, I think the reduction of complexity and additional versatility is justified. Unless you jam it hard against your skin and fire (which could cause a serious puncture wound, for sure!), an accidental discharge will likely be harmless. Safety glasses are critical though - smooth-shank nails will go flying out with surprising (and amusing) velocity, enough so that at the end of my project there were a handful of 4" finishing nails stuck in the drywall around the room. There is very little kick when used on boards longer than 8", but small pieces are problematic and tend to become projectiles.The hammer extends about 3/8" from the nose whenever the trigger is depressed (even continuously) which makes inspection simple and allows the tool to countersink. As one reviewer noted, the depth is not readily adjustable, though I found that it was easy to control depth by how far down the shank the nose is positioned. For special purposes where a particular depth was required, you could grind down the hammer - replacements are ten bucks or so.After finishing the floor project, I have found some other uses for this tool:1. Flushing framing nails - will drive 3" framing nails about 1/4" per hit. When my 21 degree nailer muffs, this thing is much easier (and more accurate) than trying to get your hammer in there to finish the drive.2. Offset nailing - Nails that are impossible to drive any other way can be effectively driven with this tool using a sturdy pry bar to transfer the force of the hammer. Installing your standard two-nail blue single gang electrical box from the back side of a wall, for example, is impossible because the nails are angled forward - But using a Stanley WonderBar, propped against the nail head, and this hitting the WonderBar as close as possible, 2 minutes later, the job is done3. Punching holes - puts a neat, 1/8" hole in brittle materials. Need to cut a circle in cement board? Yes, you could buy and carry a masonry hole saw of every size, but that gets expensive very quickly. With this, trace the circle, and repeatedly punch around the line. The circle will fall right out with very little mess.Very satisfied, and would highly recommend the AP700 for anyone trying to reclaim hardwood flooring!

The media could not be loaded. Working on an old house with lovely solid walnut trim... that someone painted over and used framing nails to install. I tried removing a few by hand but the nails were gripped tight (whether from rust or just length of time). This tool did the job in a room's worth of trim (two doorways) in less than 30 min. I also tried it on some reclaimed wood floor (3/8 facenailed oak)... this works really well for larger nails, if you use for smaller nails like what is used for facenailed flooring, make sure to dial back your compressor pressure or do NOT put the tool stem all the way down against the wood. It's a beast and will blow out thin wood with the impact. The trim I used it on has many layers of paint on the face (and likely had wood putty over the old nailheads), in a few cases a few splinters came off with the paint and nail, so damage is possible. I am ok with that and it was so quick to use, I definitely would recommend it for DIY and rehab. Seems solid and I like that rebuild kits are available for this one. Came with an allen key and small bottle of oil, but did not come with an airhose quick-connect adapter (which is typical), no big deal.