Aluminum Brazing Rods, Aluminum Welding Rods, Welding Sticks, 30pcs Low Melt Welding Rods 716°F-752°F, 2/32"x13" Aluminum Rod, No Flux Required Metal Rods for all Position

Have not used them yet but thay look good

Epic Failure, don’t do it ! Aluminum is very brittle and really takes experience and a proper welder. I’ve done a lot of brazing and mig work in the body shop and wasn’t scared of brazing a small split in an aluminum pontoon. Area of repair was on top of the pontoon , above the water line.Really didn’t want to purchase a TIG setup for something I probably could have used epoxy on and been ok.Saw these low temp aluminum brazing rods and watched there video,thought I would give it a shot being in a non critical area. Ad says melt temp is 700ish degrees, I prepped my surface area( split was 3/8 inch in length behind a weld. In an attempt to get rod to melt I overheated pontoon and weld split. Now I have about 3 inch’s to repair. I will be buying a Tig welder this evening. Put the rods on a piece of steel and threw heat to it in an attempt to melt rod, took way more than 700 degrees, propane torch burns 2-4 times hotter and it finally melted in small droplets, as if no flux at all.Please listen , if you think you’re going to repair anything with these rods like in the video…..you’re wrong !!I’m sending back for refund and unfortunately going to drop big bucks for the proper setup.My advice, don’t do it, run from this product. This stuff is shouldn’t even be sold.Hope this helps the next person !!Thanks,SC

Was shipped in two days. Welding rods was just perfect.

I was trying to simply melt the rod onto my aluminum plate using a propane torch. I had to put so much heat, my plate was beginning to melt just as the rod was melting. I polished my plate and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. You can see in the photo the damage my plate took before the rod melted. You couldn't use this process on any large aluminum pieces because the entire plate had to get to temperature to melt the rod. The Aluminum plate keeps wicking the heat away until the entire plate is hot then it can melt the rod- by that time my plate began to melt. Don't know how to get the plate to the exact temp the rod melts without damaging the plate. Once it gets to melting temp I suppose you need to remove the torch then back on again the whole time holding the rod on the plate until it melts. Just doesnt melt at a low enough temp to flow onto the plate without damaging the plate. Bummer.

If you plan to use a propane or MAPP torch...I didn't have much luck. If you have an acetylene torch, you'll likely have enough heat to bring the metal up to a temperature sufficient for these to work.

This solder melted at the same temp as my aluminum. Wasted a tremendous amount of time and a good deal of propane. Before I returned this item, I bought some Alumaweld from Harbor freight to make sure the fault was not my technique and skill level. The Alumaweld worked perfectly, and the entire job was done in less than an hour. Lot of folks on here are blaming the user for not being able to use this stuff but the results don't lie.

I had a hole in my aluminum A/C duct that would have been expensive to repair. I disassembled the duct, removed the seal, and sanded it with 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I heated the channel with a standard gas blowtorch, checked the temperature until the weld started to flow, and then inserted the welding rod into the hole. The welding process was very smooth, almost like welding. Excellent work, looks beautiful. The duct was reinstalled and the A/C system was filled with water. Totally.

Haven't used these rods yet but as soon as I opened the package I knew something wasn't right. They are a much thinner diameter than the pictures suggest. I should have read the description which said 3/32(or 1/16 to the western world). But to add insult to injury my Starrett micrometer is measuring between 0.0555 to 0.0575. Not even close to 0.0625 the say it is. Given those two falsehoods I'm not optimistic when/if I go to use them.