APDTY 112837 Steering Column Motor MDPS Clunk Noise Rubber Flex Coupler Repair Compatible with Select Hyundai Sonata Elantra Santa Fe Azera Veloster Kia Soul Optima Forte Cadenza (TSB 14-ST-002-1)

This part worked perfect for my 2012 Soul. My son and I were able to switch this out after watching a few videos on the the tube. It was a bit labor intensive and we had an issue getting a bolt back in but we were able to get it done in about 3 hours. We took the drivers seat out to give us more room to work. This part was under 8$ and fixed the problem. If you are good with fixing cars or have someone who is to help you, I would recommend this part. It took some time and patience but saved us almost 1K which we did not have so it was worth the price.

Inexpensive , not to difficult if you have a tool set, sockets, screwdrivers. Might help to have a freind help when dropping and reinstalling the stearing column. Clean the old pieces out and replace with new one. Now stearing is smooth and quiet. Exact fit.

Had my car for 10 years and steering started knocking, discovered it was likely the flex coupler, so I ordered this replacement part. I have no car mechanical experience and this took me about 3 hours to do. Tools needed (all pictured): - a socket wrench - A socket wrench extender (5in) - 10, 12 and 14 mm sockets - Philips head screwdriver (I used long and short) - a t30 hex head driver to open the power steering motor - a body tool to remove the dashboard components - a duster to clean the power steering motor - an old toothbrush to clean the power steering motor This was by no means 'easy' to do, but it was well worth the effort and money saved from taking it to a mechanic and where you would be charged hundreds of dollars. The replacement essentially requires you to, - first disconnect you car battery (very important) - take out bolts and screws - take off pieces of the steering console and dashboard - unplug some electrical connectors - then take off some more bolts and screws until you can get to the power steering motor (see pictures). - open up the motor clean it (no chemicals), then replace the part (you can see in my photos the old coupler was annihilated) - put it all back together in reverse order of how you took it apart. I watched a video of the same procedure being done to a Hyundai Sonata and the Elantra's procedure was almost identical. The video on YT is called: How to replace a steering wheel coupler 11-14 Hyundai Sonata. I essentially followed this video almost step by step to complete my replacement. Once the steering wheel was unmounted from the dashboard, the motor was reachable and I worked it right there in the floorboard. Some other notes: - the power steering motor t30 screws were very tight and required a lot of leverage to initially un-stick. Make sure to tighten them accordingly when re-assembling. - there is a rear bolt where the steering column attaches to the frame of the car, right about where the pedal are, but up behind the dashboard. This was cumbersome to loosen and remove and also hard to work when re-assembling everything. Final thoughts: This is money well spent if you plan to do this yourself. It is definitely worth it, and this part was an exact replacement for what was previously in my car. Recommended for the DIYers out there.

This little piece saved me a lot of aggravation. It works for real.

2013 veloster worked as described and fixed clicking noise installed at 300,000 will update when failure occurs

Fit perfectly and solved the steering wheel play issue.

I hate my car. Hate isn't a strong enough word for the contempt and loathing I have for my 2012 Hyundai Sonata. And just when I thought my hate for this car could not be greater, I found it has intensified even more following the pronounced "klunk" sound and weird steering I was just starting to experience. By virtue of Internet research I was able to determine that the MDPS bushing / coupler may have disintegrated inside its motor housing. The fix was to purchase this little star-like part for around $5.00. Great, you say? Well wait for the surprise you get from the dealer who will charge you from $200 - $400 to install it. That is, unless you are fortunate enough to fall under the "extended" warranty from Hyundai for this part (ten years or 100k miles). Needless to say my mileage was above that. Oh, and this is something that fails quite often in Hyundai and Kia cars from what I've read online. Love you Hyundai. But I digress. After watching many movies, on the Internet, for how to replace the part yourself, I thought I would give it a try. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. However, I have been able to do normal maintenance on my vehicles to keep them in good shape (my late, beloved, 2000 Chevrolet S-10 pickup had nearly 400k when it finally breathed its last). But otherwise I have no real special knowledge (or interest) in messing with my cars. I mention this to say that to replace this little part will not be as horrible as it might first sound / appear. Here's what I suggest: 1. Watch several different Internet videos on how to replace the part. BUT, be warned, not all videos are created equal nor are the cars similar. Some videos show that you need to almost disassemble and/or remove the steering column. Others do not. So watch several different to get a general idea of what you are looking for and how to deal with each assembly as you come across it. In my case, I only had to remove some of the interior trim, unplug several wiring harnesses, and drop the steering column inside the driver's side area where the steering wheel rested on the seat. Nothing more. 2. Have the correct tools on hand. You WILL need a metric socket set and a T30 Torx socket or screwdriver (socket is much easier to use). I found that out watch the videos and made a trip to the hardware store to buy one before starting the project. Good thing I did. Have a small brush and compressed air to clean the disintegrated part from the motor before replacing the part. This is extremely important. Be sure to unhook your battery before taking any of the wiring apart. 3. Clean your work area before you start. Work in a methodical manner and keep screws for the various parts together. Work carefully when removing any of the wiring harnesses BEFORE dropping the steering column. Lay removed parts out in an order you can follow in reverse to put it back together. I think that if you consider some of my suggestions you won't have to much trouble taking this little project on. I managed to do the entire process in under two hours (someone with automotive skill would be able to do this in much less time). I only got one skinned knuckle and did not, not even once, cuss while doing this operation as it was not as bad as I thought it would be. Quite an achievement if you had ever seen me deal with car issues in the past. As for the APDTY part, there is little I can say at this point. The company does have one of the better videos online showing how to replace the part. It did fit inside the motor housing perfectly. My only concern is that I hope it is the newest version of the part and not a direct OEM copy of the flawed part that blew apart. I've attached a few pics of the motor and parts. Good luck!